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BobZ(IL) Rider in the Sky

Joined: 20 May 2007 Posts: 651 Location: Bourbonnais, IL
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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 9:23 pm Post subject: Spline Lube Tomorrow... |
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Anyone have link to good spline lube instructions on the web? IBMWR has some but seem a little iffy. (RS verses LT)
I noticed a little oil seepage between bottom of engine and trans. No clutch issues so far. Seal issue?
Actually had hoped to just slide trans back a little rather than pulling it out. Probably out of luck.
Thanks for suggestions. _________________ '93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997
Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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If you're doing the first "re-lube" since production I'd suggest that you pull the tranny all the way off.
Reason being, you need to get in there and clean the old "stuff" out from the clutch disc splines as well as the tranny shaft splines.
I used an old tooth brush with some degreaser.
I'd also suggest that you drain all the tranny oil out of it before you try and remove it, otherwise you'll probably be cleaning it off the floor before your done.
DAMHIK  _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:00 am Post subject: |
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Drain the final drive and tranny. That way you can put the final drive on it's side and it won't leak gear oil out of the breather cap. Don't drain the tranny until you have the center stand off. Otherwise it drains down the centerstand and makes a mess.
Put the drive shaft back together with the U-joints lined-up like so:
 _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:04 am Post subject: |
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You don't need to remove the starter, just take out it's two mounting bolts and leave it in place. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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rkildu Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 08 Nov 2005 Posts: 221 Location: Arkansas
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:37 am Post subject: |
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Bob,
Send me an eMail address and I will forward a Word Doc to you that I wrote up after doing mine.
Rod
97 K1100LT highline _________________ Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty |
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BobZ(IL) Rider in the Sky

Joined: 20 May 2007 Posts: 651 Location: Bourbonnais, IL
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Send me an eMail address and I will forward a Word Doc to you that I wrote up after doing mine. |
Thanks for the offer, but my mechanical colleagues and I got 'er done today.
Same as on my R-bike, we got the K-bike opened up and everything was clean and well lubed with no appearance of wear. You just never know until you look.
We started off rather intimidated by the job. The K is a lot different than the R's which we have experience on, but we went step by step and learned a whole lot along the way. (only one 6 inch piece of small rubber hose left over)
As always we are thankful to you guys for your suggestions and encouragement _________________ '93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997
Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride. |
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WVMSFKRS Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 122 Location: Fairmont, WV
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:21 pm Post subject: |
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I'm in the middle of mine. I though it was a pretty big job, the trickiest part was getting it back together by myself. I wish I lived close to you and your mechanic colleague. Did you happen to take any pictures? _________________ IBA#42211
MSF Rider Coach
Riders Edge Instructor
'09 K1200LT
'07 K1200GT Traded
'96 K1100 RS SE *SOLD*
'05 HD Ultra 82,000+ miles
'04 URAL *SOLD* |
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BobZ(IL) Rider in the Sky

Joined: 20 May 2007 Posts: 651 Location: Bourbonnais, IL
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:56 pm Post subject: |
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We took a couple of pictures of areas we thought might confuse our reassembly, but were so driven to get the job completed today and enjoy the Guiness rewards that we didn't do the documentation.
There are nuts and bolts and pieces so fricken hard to get to that it's no wonder dealer service is so expensive and often times unreliable. And I have ABS l, not ll.
Can't imagine doing the job without a helper or two. _________________ '93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997
Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride. |
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WVMSFKRS Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 122 Location: Fairmont, WV
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:04 am Post subject: |
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4 nuts that hold down the battery tray, 2 are under the ABS II and very hard to get out. It's been apart so long I hope I can get the body back together. I have quite a few things going on with the RS. _________________ IBA#42211
MSF Rider Coach
Riders Edge Instructor
'09 K1200LT
'07 K1200GT Traded
'96 K1100 RS SE *SOLD*
'05 HD Ultra 82,000+ miles
'04 URAL *SOLD* |
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AndrewD Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 28 Location: Berkshire UK
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:59 am Post subject: |
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I know your lube is done, but thought I'd add my 2p worth as it's a common question that will get searched for.
Did a spline lube and clutch seal the other day in a couple of hours with Rob C on the Redsoket forum.
We pulled the whole arm out in one, but split it the replace, so I'd split to remove (no need to drain bevel oil). We have had a few issues with the wrong seal being supplied by a popular parts provider, therefore this is the forth time it has been apart.
The seal (when correct) should sit with the last face/fold flat not stretched out with the clutch adjustment bolt about 1" out.
If the clutch cable is wrong or stretched (Rob has a K1 so cable might be a little long if an RS one had been used at some time). The arm ends up a long way out with the adjustment bolt about 3/8" out, this places strain on the seal and it fails very quickly.
At the same time as a lube check both UJ's are free as they 'weld' as they fail preventing easy repair. _________________ AndrewD
1994 K1100RS in Black
www.Gabfesterst.com for all BMW riders |
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kengibson Brick Rider

Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 30 Location: Colorado, Boulder area
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:43 am Post subject: |
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| WVMSFKRS wrote: | | I'm in the middle of mine. I though it was a pretty big job, the trickiest part was getting it back together by myself. I wish I lived close to you and your mechanic colleague. Did you happen to take any pictures? |
I'm in the process of replacing my clutch and lubing the splines (amongst other things). Below is a picture taken in my garage recently. I've since re-mounted the transmission. I did that by partially installing the four hex bolts for the center stand so the transmission could stand on those bolts. I set it on a cinder block + block of wood behind the clutch housing then adjusted the center stand bolts until it was perfectly lined up. Then I got behind it and pushed it right on.
Now I'm working on installing the swingarm and driveshaft. I'm trying the approach recommended by Clymer's to install the swingarm first in order to seal the rubber boot to the transmission but haven't had any luck making the blind connection required to get the driveshaft inserted. So, today I'm planning to remove the swingarm again, install the driveshaft first, followed by the swingarm, and then make a tool to seal the rubber boot to the transmission. I will use a piece of coat hanger with a bend at the end to reach in and seal the boot. I'm going to grind the end of this coat hanger to remove any sharp edges so it doesn't tear the boot.
This is the first time I've gone this deep into the internals of my K1100. Every time I work on it, it's a new learning experience....
 _________________ '95 K1100RS with only 47k miles |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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| AndrewD wrote: | | If the clutch cable is wrong or stretched (Rob has a K1 so cable might be a little long if an RS one had been used at some time). The arm ends up a long way out with the adjustment bolt about 3/8" out, this places strain on the seal and it fails very quickly. |
FYI: The same 1510mm clutch cable is used on all of the follwing bikes:
K75
K75C
K75S
K100
K100RS
K1
K100RS4V
K1100RS _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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WVMSFKRS Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 122 Location: Fairmont, WV
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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Looks familiar, mine is getting close to being back together. A few of my riding friends said we're riding some time in the next 2 weeks, so I better get busy. _________________ IBA#42211
MSF Rider Coach
Riders Edge Instructor
'09 K1200LT
'07 K1200GT Traded
'96 K1100 RS SE *SOLD*
'05 HD Ultra 82,000+ miles
'04 URAL *SOLD* |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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Aint that pretty, A flying brick, sitting on a hollow brick.
Seriously, what stops it falling off, should the worst happen? _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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They're actually pretty well-balanced like that. When I rebuilt my K75S I started with a motor on a few blocks of wood and went from there. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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When I did mine, I bolted a 4" x 2" to the garage floor with J hooks each end & ratchet strapped it to the bottom yoke. front wheel was butted against the wood. Under the sump (oil pan) was a hydraulic jack. This allowed me to make sure the engine & tranny were in line, when I rolled the tranny forwards. Just for safety I also did this
But then i knew that SWMBO would want to get past to get to the freezer. She's not got the most delicate of asses We don't have as much real estate this side of the pond for serious workshops either. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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chopper_harris Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Posts: 232 Location: Nr Wigan, UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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And I'll bet my life she doesn't get to read your forum posts
You are soooo in trouble when she does ! _________________ C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys |
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