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flatgunphil Brick Rider
Joined: 24 May 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Central CA coast
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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:21 pm Post subject: 2-VALVE SPARK PLUG WIRES |
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HI all,
Where is the best place to get spark plug wires for a K100 2 valve? I can't seem to find them anywhere... The reason I ask is that I changed plugs, synched the TB's, changed oil(s) and can't seem to get better than 35MPG. Ran a bottle of Techron through, and checked the Temp sensor for proper values. Also adjusted the air flow flapper thingee (highly technical term) according to the lean drop method on IBMWR. Any ideas?
Phil |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Air leaking at crankcase breather hose.
Air leaking on rubber above throttlebodies.
Stuck fuel injector(s).
Bad fuel pressure regulator. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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flatgunphil Brick Rider
Joined: 24 May 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Central CA coast
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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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what to use for diagnosing air leaks? water in spraybottle? When I changed plugs, all seemed to be about the same color. I will check for leaks when I get home.
Phil |
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flatgunphil Brick Rider
Joined: 24 May 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Central CA coast
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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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What's the best way to diagnose last item?
Phil |
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chopper_harris Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Posts: 232 Location: Nr Wigan, UK
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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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Dino plug leads were filled with compressed carbon powder. There were notorious for failing in damp conditions or when shaped in a tight arc.
Modern leads are copper wire cored, and very robust. Corrosion is the biggest problem.
You should buzz each lead end-end with a multimeter - between 5,000 and 6,000 ohms is spot-on.
Whilst you have each lead off the bike, give it a good clean and a smear of dielectric grease inside the cap. This will ensure that next time you pull a plug lead, it will be a lot easier  _________________ C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys |
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flatgunphil Brick Rider
Joined: 24 May 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Central CA coast
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Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:14 am Post subject: |
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All plug wires appear to be within spec. Plugs looked good-none were fouled or burnt. Seems to run better now after I gooped everything...We'll see.
Thanks to all that advised.
Phil |
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flatgunphil Brick Rider
Joined: 24 May 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Central CA coast
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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Alright now,
Here's the status so far-
Valves are good--All the same int .006, exh .010
Plugs look good-insulator is light colored.
Plug wires have close to the same resistance reading-- + or - 100 Ohms
TB's pretty close to each other. The screw in the air flow meter is about 4 turns out from full rich.
Tire pressure is good.
brakes not dragging, runs pretty good, so WHATS MY PROBLEM???? I just can't figure it out.
Could it still be the pressure regulator?
Thanks to all,
Phil
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