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2-VALVE SPARK PLUG WIRES

 
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flatgunphil
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 May 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Central CA coast

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:21 pm    Post subject: 2-VALVE SPARK PLUG WIRES Reply with quote

HI all,
Where is the best place to get spark plug wires for a K100 2 valve? I can't seem to find them anywhere... The reason I ask is that I changed plugs, synched the TB's, changed oil(s) and can't seem to get better than 35MPG. Ran a bottle of Techron through, and checked the Temp sensor for proper values. Also adjusted the air flow flapper thingee (highly technical term) according to the lean drop method on IBMWR. Any ideas?

Phil
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air leaking at crankcase breather hose.

Air leaking on rubber above throttlebodies.

Stuck fuel injector(s).

Bad fuel pressure regulator.
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flatgunphil
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 May 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Central CA coast

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what to use for diagnosing air leaks? water in spraybottle? When I changed plugs, all seemed to be about the same color. I will check for leaks when I get home.

Phil
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flatgunphil
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 May 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Central CA coast

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the best way to diagnose last item?

Phil
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chopper_harris
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Nr Wigan, UK

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dino plug leads were filled with compressed carbon powder. There were notorious for failing in damp conditions or when shaped in a tight arc.
Modern leads are copper wire cored, and very robust. Corrosion is the biggest problem.

You should buzz each lead end-end with a multimeter - between 5,000 and 6,000 ohms is spot-on.

Whilst you have each lead off the bike, give it a good clean and a smear of dielectric grease inside the cap. This will ensure that next time you pull a plug lead, it will be a lot easier Wink
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flatgunphil
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 May 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Central CA coast

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All plug wires appear to be within spec. Plugs looked good-none were fouled or burnt. Seems to run better now after I gooped everything...We'll see.

Thanks to all that advised.
Phil
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flatgunphil
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 May 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Central CA coast

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright now,
Here's the status so far-
Valves are good--All the same int .006, exh .010
Plugs look good-insulator is light colored.
Plug wires have close to the same resistance reading-- + or - 100 Ohms
TB's pretty close to each other. The screw in the air flow meter is about 4 turns out from full rich.
Tire pressure is good.
brakes not dragging, runs pretty good, so WHATS MY PROBLEM???? I just can't figure it out.

Could it still be the pressure regulator?

Thanks to all,

Phil
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