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Intermittent stalling

 
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joeangi
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 291
Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 3:03 pm    Post subject: Intermittent stalling Reply with quote

I have a problem, that I thought was cured. Ever since I got the bike running, it has had an intermittent stalling problem.

When I got the bike the fuel pump was shot, so I replaced it with an aftermarket unit. All lines and filter were changed at the same time. The bike fires right up, and runs great. Then all of a sudden the bike would stall, and not re-start. I could not hear the fuel pump whining when it stalled, or would not start. I figured out that if I played with the wiring harness for the fuel pump, It would re-energize the pump, and start fine. I finally cut off the fuel pump connector, and replaced it with a nice new one from Jim at Eastern Beaver. Everything worked fine....

Today I was out with the bike, and I was waiting at a light, and it stalled. I tried to re-start...and nothing. I rolled myself out of traffic, turned the bike on and off a few times, and the pump came back on....and away I went. I proceeded to ride for a few miles, then it died again in a parking lot. ....few minutes of turning the key on and off, finally the pump re-energizes, and off I go for a few feet...then it stalled. Finally get it going, and back to the garage.

All wires were checked when I did the restoration. The only part I did not dis-assemble is the ignition switch. It also has no steering lock, only off and start. should I take the ignition switch apart? Does anyone have any ideas where else I should look?

Thank you for any advice.
Joe
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe - I guess this is the K11, right? Side stand switch and kill switch. I spray all the connectors and switches I can access whenever I'm working on the bike - or at least once a year with CorrosionX. I've also started using dielectric silicone on the connectors. I've never had a problem with things not working since I started doing this.

The only other thing I can think of is the HES - you can check that at home with a hair dryer.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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joeangi
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 291
Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Jim,



Thanks for the reply. Yes, it is the K1100. I had just gotten a can of corrosion-x, but have not used it yet.

All switches have been sprayed, and worked with wd40 until it was clear. Side stand switch is jumped. The whole bike powers up when I turn the key, but sometimes I do not hear the whine of the fuel pump, and then it won't start. I can work on the kill switch some more, that may be it???

I too have added dielectric grease to all connectors.

I have put maybe 40-50 miles on this bike (not registered yet...) but it has stranded me on the side of the road twice now. That has never happened in 23 years with the K100RS.

BTW what is the HES?

Thanks,
Joe
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Saltcreek
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Joined: 22 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel pump just failed on my Chevy pickup and the pump alone was $460.

If it were me, I would plug in a battery tender when it wasn't working and wiggle connectors until I heard it start. It's got to be something simple.
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1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad
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joeangi
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Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really thought it was the connector under the tank, since that seemed to turn the fuel pump on and off when I wiggled it. Now that it is replaced I am not so sure...

Joe
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jpberens1994K1100RS
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008
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Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:29 pm    Post subject: stalling Reply with quote

I had a 94 RS for a brief few weeks. The PO had a NEW internal ignition
switch part, I think it was the switch internals. When the handle bars were turned to far left or right, think parking lot speed, the bike would cut out.
I rode it over 1,000 miles that way before I got totaled.No, I did not get wiped out due to the stalling thing. See if your bike does that. If it does, maybe it's that part.
You can have mine, it's brand new in the bag.


I got a 93 now and no problems with any of that.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a previous thread about this, can't be arsed to search.
Basically, the harness to the switch under the lock is sometimes tied too tight. It fractures the wires inside the insulation. My second K11 did that.
With care, the switch can be removed once you've found the tiny grub screw, & unplugged. Then it's off to the bench to solder some new wires in, or off to the stealer to buy a new one.
HTH
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Intermittent stalling Reply with quote

joeangi wrote:
It also has no steering lock


Yes it does unless someone purposefully disabled it. (Johnny used to think his Motoheap didn't have one either.)
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BobZ(IL)
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Joined: 20 May 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might try wiggling the kill switch when your fuel pump won't activate.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:48 pm    Post subject: stalling Reply with quote

Joe - HES is Hall Effect Sensor - I'm pretty sure that's the one that can fault when it gets hot.

Although it is starting to sound more like a loose wire connection.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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joeangi
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Joined: 03 Apr 2006
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Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, just spent some quality time in the garage. Of course the fuel pump was working fine, every time I switched the ignition on.

I took the kill switch apart, it was quite dirty in there. I cleaned the contacts and lubed it up. I was able to get the fuel pump to cut out. I'm figuring those guys are the best...it is the kill switch. So I also soak the whole thing in corrosion x, and while I'm at it I give a quick shot down the ignition cylinder. Yes Drake, I finally found the steering lock. It took like 100 turns of the key (with purpose) to get it to go there, but it finally did. Another 50 turns or so, and I got to the parking light detent.

Now, I can't get the fuel pump to work at all...I don't know if the corrosion x acted as a insulator, but I just put it on the tender, and will give it the night to sit.

When I flip the kill switch, I get the dash lights to come on, but still no pump.

Thanks for the tips, I think you guys are right, and it is in that switch. I took all the small Phillips screws out behind the kill switch, and would like to look around in there to see if any of the wires are loose (broken). I attempted to wiggle the wires, but no change (no pump).

Thanks,
Joe
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe - CorrosionX will not interfere with electrical connections - you can rule that out.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the steering lock is sticky, especially if it never gets used.

Just throwing this out as another possible suspect: Fuel pump relay?
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rydor
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the fuse that handles the horn, even if it looks OK. No, I'm not crazy.
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joeangi
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was starting to think of fuel pump relay...if I remember correctly, they are interchangeable? I will try that this morning.

All fuses are new, but I will swap them out. Nothing is crazy!

I thought corrosion x was good for electrical contacts.
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Saltcreek
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just as a side trip, on my ignition lock I can't remove the key unless I lock the steering. Aren't they all like that?

Joe, I'd be inclined to replace the whole right combination switch. I know others have rebuilt them successfully but while the left switch can give you lighting problems, the right switch can strand you.
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1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joeangi wrote:
I was starting to think of fuel pump relay...if I remember correctly, they are interchangeable? I will try that this morning.


Yes, the little black relays are all the same part. Try swapping the horn and fuel pump relays.


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saltcreek wrote:
Just as a side trip, on my ignition lock I can't remove the key unless I lock the steering. Aren't they all like that?


No. The most clockwise position is on. The position next to it should turn off the bike and allow you to remove the key.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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joeangi
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 291
Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went out and started to wiggle the side stand connector, and it came to life. So, I took it apart, cleaned it and soldered the wires together, just to be sure. I continued to pull it apart and put it back together with success. I could hear the fuel pump relay clicking as I inserted the plug, so I did not remove the tank to swap them. Drake, thank you for the diagram.

Button it back up...ok shut the seat, and it doesn't work again. How could this be?? I raise the seat, and move the motronic plug, and it comes to life!

I guess when I reached for the sidestand plug, I rested my hand on the motronic plug. So I removed the plug and inserted it a few times, it appears to be working properly. That seems to be it, since I used to wiggle the wires under the tank, before I replace the connector...and I am sure I brushed or hit the motronic plug at some point.
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