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Just bought a nearly new RS. What are the essential mods?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9654
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flybd5 wrote:
Are the bigger K's proportionally more top-heavy? Very Happy


Despite weighing 70 pounds more than a K1100LT (700 vs 630) it's not as top heavy and is slightly easier to push around in the garage. Feels much lighter when riding.

On top of the great power and handling it's the easiest bike to ride that I've ever owned. It just glides through turns. Very Happy

It's still a big bike under 5 MPH though.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Nick H.



Joined: 06 Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Location: London, England

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Considering how much more bike it is than a K11LT it's remarkable that it's only 70lbs heavier.
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flybd5
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jul 2019
Posts: 157
Location: Berlin, Germany

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick H. wrote:
It's good to know there are seat options. But I won't decide until I get to the North Cape. I would rather spend money on the suspension or a vinyl wrap.


On these bikes, a good seat is worth much more than a suspension upgrade. I haven't change my seat because I am moving to the US, even though I upgraded to a Wilbers shock, but that's because I needed the bike's butt lowered.
_________________
To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE
1982 Honda Lead 125
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 202
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick H. wrote:
No, I've removed it from four BMWs before. It's not an issue for the MoT. The insurers don't care either. Perhaps they've heard how dangerous it is.

eta: I should probably elaborate on that. Under moderate or hard braking on a rippled surface the ABS on my K bikes (and my 1100 and 1150GS) would release the brakes. Maybe the frequency of the ripple effect is interpreted by the computer as something dangerous? I don't know, but it happened several times. On poorly maintained London roads the top layer of the surface is sometimes worn away on the last couple of feet at a stop/give way/yield sign, revealing a rippled concrete layer beneath. So instead of stopping at the line I found myself sailing along for another 5 or 6 feet, out of control, into the path of the traffic which I was trying to yield to! Once you've worked out what on earth has happened, you can't get rid of the ABS fast enough.

I think most people would concede that ABS 1 and 2 are primitive systems which you can outperform manually with training and practice. I made sure I got plenty of those. The training included three one week courses at the Nurburgring where we would deliberately induce front wheel slides in the rain. I also took some dirt riding courses, which helped a great deal. And I did two seasons of endurance racing. So I know I'm better than ABS 1 and ABS 2, unless I freeze up in terror. But I haven't done that for many years.

I want to own a bike with Pro ABS and I'm sure I could never outperform that...I might buy some flavour of R1250 in the coming months. Cornering ABS would be really something.


Firstly lose the aggressive attitude. This bike is both powerful and heavy and can be unforgiving. This is probably why you find you pass stop signs and not the poor road condition or any problem with the ABS. Dare I say it, public roads are not racetracks and this could be classed as bad riding technique.

As it happens I don't like ABS and when the system went on my K1100LT I was more than happy to run without it.

If you are heading to Sweden, you may find aggressive riding is frowned upon and you could find yourself on the way home a lot sooner than you would wish. Swedish Police have a certain 'reputation' for people who upset the status quo
_________________
1986 K75S Professionally resprayed in Nightfire Metallic Red (non BMW colour) and refurbished wheels.

1986 K75c. Good mechanical order. Now resprayed BMW Avus Black (unlined) and looking good.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9654
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to be riding aggressively to have the ABS experience false positives.

When you're riding normally and the ABS lets the rear go when you're expecting some of your braking (like 20%) from the rear then you can easily go through a stop sign. It's happened to me several times. (Seattle has lots of potholes.) After it happened a few times I started having to pay closer attention to the pavement at stop signs/red lights and using no rear brake if the pavement looked fishy.

Same thing with splitting. Splitting aggressively is really dumb so I never do it but even in normal splitting when you hit the uneveness of the road nipples it can cause the rear ABS to have a false positive so if I think the rear ABS might possibly let go then I only use the front brake.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Nick H.



Joined: 06 Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Location: London, England

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grunter wrote:
Nick H. wrote:
No, I've removed it from four BMWs before. It's not an issue for the MoT. The insurers don't care either. Perhaps they've heard how dangerous it is.

eta: I should probably elaborate on that. Under moderate or hard braking on a rippled surface the ABS on my K bikes (and my 1100 and 1150GS) would release the brakes. Maybe the frequency of the ripple effect is interpreted by the computer as something dangerous? I don't know, but it happened several times. On poorly maintained London roads the top layer of the surface is sometimes worn away on the last couple of feet at a stop/give way/yield sign, revealing a rippled concrete layer beneath. So instead of stopping at the line I found myself sailing along for another 5 or 6 feet, out of control, into the path of the traffic which I was trying to yield to! Once you've worked out what on earth has happened, you can't get rid of the ABS fast enough.

I think most people would concede that ABS 1 and 2 are primitive systems which you can outperform manually with training and practice. I made sure I got plenty of those. The training included three one week courses at the Nurburgring where we would deliberately induce front wheel slides in the rain. I also took some dirt riding courses, which helped a great deal. And I did two seasons of endurance racing. So I know I'm better than ABS 1 and ABS 2, unless I freeze up in terror. But I haven't done that for many years.

I want to own a bike with Pro ABS and I'm sure I could never outperform that...I might buy some flavour of R1250 in the coming months. Cornering ABS would be really something.


Firstly lose the aggressive attitude. This bike is both powerful and heavy and can be unforgiving. This is probably why you find you pass stop signs and not the poor road condition or any problem with the ABS. Dare I say it, public roads are not racetracks and this could be classed as bad riding technique.

As it happens I don't like ABS and when the system went on my K1100LT I was more than happy to run without it.

If you are heading to Sweden, you may find aggressive riding is frowned upon and you could find yourself on the way home a lot sooner than you would wish. Swedish Police have a certain 'reputation' for people who upset the status quo


Thanks for the tips! The KRS is so huge and powerful, how did I ever cope with my K11LT, ZZR11, RSV Mille, ZX10 or Hayabusa, not to mention an 1100GS in the mud of Ireland and on dirt tracks in South Africa? If only I'd listened to you before riding big bikes for 30 years with a clean licence, maximum NCD, an IAM pass with no training, touring most of Europe 2 up without a scratch or a ticket, a year of despatch riding in London with no injuries and no tickets, and friendships with police motorcyclists. It is possible to combine disciplined road riding with trophies at the Nordschleife and in the British endurance championship. Race experience actually kills your interest in taking risks on the road. Maybe you should try it. Control and discipline, training and practice are my perpetual commitments because I want to stay alive and out of a wheelchair with a licence and insurance record which don't stop me riding interesting bikes. Did it occur to you that my previous post was all about braking technique? Does that not strike you as safety-minded? How often do you practice emergency stops in the rain?
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flybd5
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jul 2019
Posts: 157
Location: Berlin, Germany

PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't take it personally, Nick. A few around here are missing the filter between the brain and the keyboard. They can't help themselves. Most everyone else is cool. Smile
_________________
To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE
1982 Honda Lead 125
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 202
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 3:51 pm    Post subject: Aggresive Reply with quote

I think my instructor when I was a 'Black Rat' on police motorcycles would be only too happy to agree with me.

Have you ever had to pick up a decapitated motorcyclist who thought he knew everything there was about riding, then learned very quickly, but retained the knowledge for a very short time, that brick walls are quite hard.???

Oh yes this unfortunate chap was an advanced motorcyclist as well that didn't help him one little bit.
_________________
1986 K75S Professionally resprayed in Nightfire Metallic Red (non BMW colour) and refurbished wheels.

1986 K75c. Good mechanical order. Now resprayed BMW Avus Black (unlined) and looking good.
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