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Saddlebag finish

 
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jay k.
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Posts: 93
Location: E. Haddam, CT

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:37 pm    Post subject: Saddlebag finish Reply with quote

I recently bought a left side bag off eBay.
When it showed up it looked like someone had polished the outer case.
Anyone have an idea about how to restore the original finish???
I guess I could polish the right side bag...but like the original finish better.
Thanks - Jay
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'20 R1250RS - The RS
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bags are a matte black, and some are painted body color. The new one you bought might be painted, not polished. My k bike bags were body color faces and black backs. The R bike has matte black fronts and backs.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have both... 1 bike has painted/polished side bags and the other one has flat matte black.
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the K100RS I bought 7 years ago the previous owner had the bags coated with truck bedliner.

I have dropped it twice since then- once of each side. Other than blowing apart the plastic hinges, no damage is visible.


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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done Gen 3 bags (the ones with the rubber pads on them) in LineX truck bed liner. They came out great but a lot of work is involved in order to remove the rubber pads without tearing them and you also need to trim the Linex (grind with a Dremel) to get the pads to fit back in as well as the reflectors/badges.

I have a quick and dirty write-up on how to do it if anyone is interested.

SugarHill: Please stop posting pictures of your bike lift. You're making me jealous.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
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jay k.
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Posts: 93
Location: E. Haddam, CT

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the truck liner idea. I can't just tape off the pads, reflectors and roundels???
What about the flat-black that's all the rage on cars (and helmets) now?
I have a similar lift...just too much crap on and around it to photograph!!!
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'20 R1250RS - The RS
'96 K1100RS/SE - The Bagger
'05 R1100S Boxer Cup Replica - The Boxer
'14 Ducati Monster 1200S - The Duc
'84 Kawasaki GPz 1100 - The Gypsy
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even if I were just going to repaint I'd remove the rubber, emblems and locks because just taping off will yield ghetto results.

You also need to tape off the rail on the bottom.

And the Line-X bed liner is much thicker than paint.

Anyhow, here's my write-up on how to do it:

There are some minor issues with closing due to the thickness but I sanded down the outer edge to bevel it a bit.

1) Remove the hinges - you're just having the outer half done.

2) Remove the rubber pads - Take your time and be very careful - they tear easily. Remove all double-stick tape residue from the bags and pads and then tape off the pad areas on the case outer with some blue painter's tape.

3) Remove the latches - drill out the rivets from the inside. Be careful not to let the heat from the friction of drilling get too much - otherwise the plastic will melt.

4) Pry out the roundels and reflectors - slowly and carefully. They're fairly cheap to replace if you mess them up though. I taped those areas off too.

5) Tape off the hinge rail - so you can get the hinges back on later.



When you get them back from the Line-X:

1) Remove the tape from the hinge rail - overspray onto the tape will be tough so use an Exacto knife to cut the LineX overpsray at the edge of the tape.

2) Rivet the latches back on - The LineX will have filled up the mounting holes. Use a drill bit that's the same size as the cylinders protruding from the backs of the latches.

3) Replace the roundels and reflectors - If you taped up the bottom area of these then again carefully used an Exacto knife to cut the tape out. You might also find that the LineX on the sides of the recessed areas doesn't leave enough room to put them back in. Using a Dremel with a grinding tool, carefully go around the edge and remove some of the LineX.

4) Replace the rubber pads - Remove the painters tape with an Exacto knife. Again you'll probably run into an issue with the added thickness of the LineX on the walls of the recessed areas - Dremel and grinding bit. Instead of trying to find the right tape and reglue the pads back on, what I've found works well is using a caulking tube of roofing sealant. Then put a few belts/straps around the case half to keep the pads positioned properly while the stuff cures. I let them sit for a day.

5) Bevel the outer edge - Use a file or one of those foam sanding blocks.

6) Put the hinges back on - Use a hammer and a block of wood. Note that the end with the holes goes on first.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The latch rivets are 1/8 inch diameter by 1/2 inch long aluminum rivets. MAX sells them for almost a dollar a piece, you can get them at Home Depot or Lowes for $3 a package.the 1/2 inch long are slightly longer than stock, but seem to hold better.
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
SugarHill: Please stop posting pictures of your bike lift. You're making me jealous.


Bwahaha.

How's this one?



or this ( our daughter's ZX6R)



Seriously Drake, it was my daughter- now living in San Jose- who pushed me to get off my knees when wrenching. She and I traveled a couple hours south to buy it and bring it home. Engine work, especially valve checks/adjusts while sitting on a low stool is much better.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
The latch rivets are 1/8 inch diameter by 1/2 inch long aluminum rivets. MAX sells them for almost a dollar a piece, you can get them at Home Depot or Lowes for $3 a package.the 1/2 inch long are slightly longer than stock, but seem to hold better.


1/8 x 3/8 steel for me.

Or you can get 50 stainless 3.2x10mm ones on eBay for about $3.50. (I bought some today.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
How's this one?


Looks nice. I'd get one but most of my garage floor space is occupied by motorcycles. (And I'm getting three more this week!)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
SugarHillCTD wrote:
How's this one?


Looks nice. I'd get one but most of my garage floor space is occupied by motorcycles. (And I'm getting three more this week!)


3??? Holee crap. Parts bikes or runners?
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Flying Duck wrote:
SugarHillCTD wrote:
How's this one?


Looks nice. I'd get one but most of my garage floor space is occupied by motorcycles. (And I'm getting three more this week!)


3??? Holee crap. Parts bikes or runners?


Since where I live now I have a lot of Forest Service roads 100 yds from my garage, I'm going to look at a KTM 450 on Saturday.

Then two Ks on Monday that aren't runners now but hopefully will be after I put some work and $$$ into them.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Cool
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 2:43 pm    Post subject: Rivets Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
The latch rivets are 1/8 inch diameter by 1/2 inch long aluminum rivets. MAX sells them for almost a dollar a piece, you can get them at Home Depot or Lowes for $3 a package.the 1/2 inch long are slightly longer than stock, but seem to hold better.


The rivet holes in the locks that hold the lids in place are recessed and some rivet guns cannot get close enough to enable the rivet gun to make the connection secure. The gap can be taken up with a 5mm (10mm head) nut, which will do the trick quite nicely.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the recessed rivets I just put a few 1/8" washers on the back of the rivet.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I just unscrewed the tip of my rivet gun a bit, and it allowed the tip to go into the recess to pop them. I also put an aluminum rivet washer under the head to give it more surface area to get a better fit.

I pulled the rubber pads off mine, then had them sanded and painted body color when I had the bike done. I planned to buy new rubber pads ($280 for all four!) but then sold the bike so....
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1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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