K11 Owners Group

dwerbil · Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:49 pm Post subject: '93 K1100RS fork seals

Hi, I'm having now to address the front forks since they've been leaking fork oil from the boot for some time now. I see there's a myriad of internal fork parts on the parts fiche for the bike.

What parts are needed to do a fork rebuild?

Thanks for any help!
_________________

93 K1100RS ~ 2004 R1150RT ~ 84 RS ~ 78 R100/7 ~ 65 R60/2
Click for pics
Randy at Round Rock, Texas

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 7:33 pm Post subject:

How many miles.
I'd probably suggest you replace the brass slider bushings as well as the seals.
Otherwise if you just replace the seals, and not the worn bushings, you will just develop a new leak shortly...

Are you sure that you just don't have dirt lodged in the seal?

Many users have fixed leaking seals with this, or similar:
http://sealmate.net/
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Jim · Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:05 am Post subject:

Randy - I had the K forks rebuilt by Anton Largiader. There's a bit of information on Anton's website:

http://largiader.com/tech/k11forks/

On the advice of well known race suspension guru (now deceased), Jim Lindemann, I installed linear springs rather than the OEM type progressive springs. We could not figure out where Jim sourced the springs - whether they are WP or Race Tech - or if Jim was manufacturing springs. At any rate, no complaints with the set up.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

atlantaboblutz@live.com · Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:37 pm Post subject:

When I replaced my seals I followed the wisdom you will see often on this site and installed fork gators. http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11883&highlight=fork+gators

BTW also increased pre-load a bit by adding a 1" pvc spacer on top of the fork spring and went with #10 Amsoil full synthetic. There is quite a bit of debate about this, but OEM oil seems to be 5w with most owners using either 5w or 10w depending upon preferences and weight. Some have split the difference mixing equal parts of 5w and 10w to create 7.5w (or buying 7.5w)

I weigh 220 and occasionally ride 2 up - hence 10w. Have not had an issue in the 25,000 miles since doing the above. Full synthetic has long life, but will swap out after this riding season nonetheless as preventative maintenance.
_________________
Thanks,
Bob
Atlanta GA

'94 K1100 LT
'76 R75/6

dwerbil · Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:55 pm Post subject:

dwerbil · Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:59 pm Post subject:

Jim and Bob, thanks for the information. Maybe the Sealmate will cure the issue for now.
_________________

93 K1100RS ~ 2004 R1150RT ~ 84 RS ~ 78 R100/7 ~ 65 R60/2
Click for pics
Randy at Round Rock, Texas

Jim · Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:00 pm Post subject:

Worth a try, Randy. If that doesn't work (some people use a sliver of credit card or a feeler gauge), it's probably time to rebuild - the bike is 23 years old - and it sounds like you don't have it's history.

It's a good idea to change fluids every year.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Grunter · Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:29 am Post subject: Replacing seals

Are the Forks on the K11RS the same as on a K1100LT? If you decide to do them yourself you may find that the easiest way is to drain the oil then drop each fork leg out of the bike.

The main reason for this is the retaining bolt underneath is a large socket headed screw that is made from the best soft metal that BMW could find and unless you use a GOOD well fitting Allen Key or socket to remove it you will find yourself drilling the screw out.

The socket itself gets filled up with road detritus and prevents any removal tool from getting a good purchase, so make sure that is thoroughly clean before starting. A little bit of heat also helps.

Once the screw is removed then it is a simple matter of pulling the stanchion out of the slider. If you want to replace the bushes - fine but my last K1100 seals were replaced at around 80,000 miles and that was in the main due to the previous owner not fitting rubber boots to stop road grit rasping away at the seals. Do make sure that when you replace the seals that they go in true and straight, it is so easy to get them slightly out of alignment and will allow oil to pass.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 6:46 pm Post subject:

And I forgot to mention, before you are all done, fit yourself a set of shock gaiters..Keeps the forks clean in the future.

Inexpensive here:
http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS1952-Shock-Boot/dp/B000CPCCFY

They are available in black
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)