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Covering one fork leg at a time

 
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rbm
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Jun 2009
Posts: 115
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:23 am    Post subject: Covering one fork leg at a time Reply with quote

Not wanting to hijack the other thread on Rancho fork boot fitting, I thought I'd ask my question in a separate thread.

I have a pair of Rancho boots that I want to fit to my K100. Is it viable to remove just one fork leg at a time to fit the boot? So, the process I'm proposing is:

- Support bike. Remove front wheel, fender, calipers and axle.
- Loosen triple clamp on left. Remove left fork leg.
- Fit Rancho boot
- Replace leg and align with axle. Tighten triple clamp.
- Loosen triple clamp on right. Remove right fork leg.
- Fit Rancho boot
- Replace leg and align with axle. Tighten triple clamp.
- Replace fender, calipers, axle and front wheel.

I believe this process will eliminate the need to set and align the forks. It also preserves the existing rake which is an additional benefit.

Comments please?
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you take the fork cap off, would the slider go down far enough to clear the bottom clamp, thereby eliminating the need to remove the wheel etc?

BTW yes what you said should work fine, but if you have taken everything off you can just do them both at the same time.
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rbm
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Jun 2009
Posts: 115
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
If you take the fork cap off, would the slider go down far enough to clear the bottom clamp, thereby eliminating the need to remove the wheel etc?

BTW yes what you said should work fine, but if you have taken everything off you can just do them both at the same time.

I see what you're proposing. The entire wheel/fork assembly would come off in one unit. Then fit both boots and refit. The only adjustment would be ensuring that the fork is clamped in the triple-clamp at exactly the same spot as before so that the rake is preserved. When the assembly remains as a unit, the fork alignment is preserved. Interesting proposal; hadn't thought of that.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just do them both at the same time. If you're worried about the forks getting out of alignment then install the wheel and axle before reinstalling the fork bridge/brace.
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rbm
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Jun 2009
Posts: 115
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Just do them both at the same time. If you're worried about the forks getting out of alignment then install the wheel and axle before reinstalling the fork bridge/brace.
Thanks. Never having done something like this before, I envisioned having an alignment problem if I removed both forks, either skewed to the major axis on the bike or canted to the prependicular from the contact patch. Good to hear that it's easier than I first imagined.
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philosophicalzombie
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Joined: 03 Jun 2013
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Location: Mariposa CA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a fork seal job last night and could not get the axle through when I was done. I had reattached the bridge brace first. I loosened up the bridge brace and it slid right in. Tightened the brace, and we're good to go. - Blake
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Corkboy
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Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And another "Gotcha".
I couldn't get the slider all the way up the top yoke. I was reaching for the mallet Shocked when I took the leg back out. I could feel no lip that would get caught and then noticed what I did wrong.

I had tightened the jubilee clips on the gaiters and the upper one was high enough that it was up against the lower yoke before the leg was fully up in the upper one.

I never make the same mistake twice, but I sure keep discovering new ones Embarassed Embarassed
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you tighten the axle back up, bounce the front end a few times - everything will/should align itself - then torque all the fasteners.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
Before you tighten the axle back up, bounce the front end a few times - everything will/should align itself - then torque all the fasteners.


+1 on this. It is the recommended procedure for re-installing the front wheel as described in the owners manual.
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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