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K1100 Cam Alignment

 
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Mike d
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Feb 2010
Posts: 130
Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: K1100 Cam Alignment Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

I am trying to assist a fellow UK BMW club member with his K1100 who lives in Scotland, at least a 4 hour ride from me.
He recently bought the bike which has a low recorded mileage of 30k miles. He considers this is genuine as various bolts, while having surface corrosion, do not appear to have been rounded off.

While he is not new to the K series, he already has a K1, this is the first time he has had an 1100, so is checking it through, and fettling where necessary.

So why the posting?

He checked the valve clearances, and the bike requires two inlet buckets to be replaced, the exhausts are within spec. So a straight forward job to do, given that I have sent him the special tools to do the job. 11-3-700 camshaft lock tool, 11-2-640 Cam chain tensioner tool, 00-2-580 DTI holder/extension, and a DTI. He also has 12-3-650 the BMW static ignition tester, and 12-3-651 adapter cable for the K series.

The problem is that with the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder, the camshaft lock tool cannot be inserted in to the slots on the camshafts because one of them is about 1 degree out of alignment.

We discussed the possibility of a stretched cam chain, would this produce such an error? Or maybe a sticking/worn cam chain tensioner? Bearing in mind the low mileage I would have thought neither of these.

I have asked him to hold off stripping the chain and adjuster just at the moment, but he is quite happy to do that and measure it against a new chain if required.

Any suggestions.

Thanks in anticipation.

Mike
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed some buckets on one of my 1100 a couple of years ago(before I acquired the cam locking bracket) all I did was simply to use some plastic "zip ties" to tie the timing chain to the cam sprockets. This way the chain will not detach itself from the toothed sprocket.

As the sprockets can only fit on the cam one way you won't mess up your chain timing. BTW, I did not remove the front chain cover, or remove the chain from the main crankshaft gear. Just tied the chain to the cam sprockets and removed the sprockets from the cams so that the chain stayed "as is" with the cam's.

Remind him to be careful of the exhaust buckets if he removes the lower camshaft as they can fall out by gravity.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Mike d
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Feb 2010
Posts: 130
Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the reply. I am aware of the method you describe, and about the ability of the exhaust buckets to fall out. Luckily he only need to adjust two inlets, but was concerned that even when at TDC the cam alignment seemed a fraction out.

I have spoken to a few other, and it seems this is not unusual, just trying to get opinions before he progresses further.

Mike
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

If it were my bike. I wouldn't worry about the variation in the cam timing.

Between having my hands inside 2 different brick engines and reading here about many others it seems that each one has its own personality. So much for those strict German standards, huh?

Scott's method works very well- I have used it multiple times and I don't have any of BMW's specialized tools.

Good luck to your fellow club member.

John
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Alan Walker
Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Location: Tulsa, OK

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine last year and it was the same, when I put it back together I just re-aligned the camshafts to what the maintenance manual was showing. The engine has been performed flawlessly since. I'm not sure why they were out of alignment when I first opened the valve covers up, I don't believe it would be possible for the chain to skip a tooth on any of the gears without showing some signs of damage.
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't be skipping a tooth- that would be more than 10 degrees.

Check the valve clearance, adjust as needed, close it back up and go RIDE.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Mike d
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Feb 2010
Posts: 130
Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Just by way of Update......................

The job is now complete. two inlet buckets were changed. There was no excess slack in the chain, nor wear on the adjuster or tensioner. All very clean in fact.

On re-assembly the cams were once again slightly out of alignment. The timing was checked and finally the bike was started up. Running has been reported as very good, so he is a happy owner again.

What he did notice was a drip from the oil/water pump weep hole. On reflection he advised that it has been doing that since the day he bought the bike. The bike hasn't been ridden much as he started work on it soon after purchase. He will be sorting that out in due course, but first he is removing the rear drive for a spline lube and cosmetic paint up.

So thanks for all the help and opinions

Mike
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