K11 Owners Group

John Clauss · Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:46 pm Post subject: Changing Brake pads

Hello all,

I tried searching but couldn't find what I needed. I am changing the brake pads on my K1100RS for the first time after 10 years pf ownership and about 75K miles.

I have looked at the BMW repair manual and it says to use a BMW resetting tool 34 1 520. I do not own this tool. Can I make one, or is it really needed? On my car I simply use a big old C clamp. Thanks!

Oh yeah, I already ordered the pads and I do not need advice on which ones to buy. Thanks again!
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al

blue95lt · Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: C clamp

Hi John a c clamp works fine with the old pad to push against the piston.
Make sure the master cyl. Has enough room for the fluid.
That's how I do it. Keith
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1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:18 pm Post subject:

whyoldbill · Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:58 pm Post subject:

I had read somewhere a long time ago that you can damage your ABS modulator by forcing brake fluid back from the caliper to the MC. So I always crack the bleeder screw first and then use the C clamp to compress the caliper piston, just to be on the safe side.
This is also a good time to replace the old brake fluid if it hasn't been done in the past year.

Bill
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

hosehoundfr86 · Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:13 pm Post subject:

that's a good tip Bill,, I have to do my fluid and brake pad's
before too long,,as well as Rad flush,, and everything else that it will need as stuff wears ,,

343 KM run today and it works wonderfully,,, could maby use some of this ("molly"?) powder additive I have read about,,, sometimes the transmission seems a bit sticky,,,,Hilton

hockeyshifter · Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 12:43 am Post subject:

ok .. simple back the caliper off with a prybar just enough to get it off the rotor.. then with the pads still in the caliper use a C clamp to drive the piston back into the chamber ... BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ATTACH A HOSE TO THE BLEEDER SCREW THEN OPEN THE SCREW ONLY 1/4 TURN OR JUST ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE FLUID FLOW OUT NOT GUSH..

you want to prevent the fluid from backing up into the system ..
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fix the problem not the blame ; fix what is messed up ; NO one is to blame.

John Clauss · Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:37 pm Post subject:

I did this and it worked beautifully. New pads are excellent. They are Volmar Kevlar pads. Stop incredibly well. We will see how they hold up, but at $24.49 a set I can afford to change them more often if needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370755589378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:11 pm Post subject:

omarsbuddy · Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:15 am Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:57 am Post subject:

Jim · Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:10 pm Post subject:

Just out of curiosity, where are those pads manufactured?

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:39 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:38 pm Post subject:

drikko · Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 1:11 am Post subject:

Chile? Congo?
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 1:20 am Post subject:

drikko · Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:02 am Post subject: