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racinrich
Joined: 24 Jun 2012 Posts: 10 Location: des plaines ill
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Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:31 pm Post subject: is transmissionsupposed to rattle |
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| just bought a slightly used k1100lt with 106k on it,and have noticed it does not shift like a japanese bike,lol ,what noises are normal for a bike/trans this old? Being an auto tech I understand manual trans but never had any experience with these.I'm wondering if it needs attention and what are the best options,is there a different model trans that is better?is 20k miles on a used trans a good bet and what kind of money is a rebuilt unit.thanks.everything I have found on this site has been useful so far |
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:41 am Post subject: |
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Welcome.
This is a long discussed issue with these bikes.
First, they tend to sound like a box of rocks, and that's normal at start-up and should decrease once moving.
Second, they need their splines lubed. This should improve the shifting.
It's a full day project the first time you do it.
Question: Is it hard to shift up or down or both?
Question: At what RPM's do you shift?
Question: Have you tried pre-loading the shifter? If so did it change anything?
Third, I don't know of a replacement tranny model.
Forth, 20,000 is not a lot of miles IMHO. My 1993 had 181,000 on it before it failed. (picking away at doing a rebuild as we speak)
http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6173&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Any questions?
PM me for my cell number.
-Gwen _________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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kstones Brick Rider
Joined: 11 Mar 2006 Posts: 38 Location: N Yorks, England.
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:58 am Post subject: Your K11 |
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Hi Racinrich;
106 k miles i assume is quite a lot; it depends on how it's been ridden before, but no matter, here are my suggestions.
You want a dependable bike; the rattle is normal on K11's but best to know what condition it's in and what is/is not rattling, so i suggest as a priority checking out the clutch as it can rattle just before the splines go and would like a bit of lube anyway i'm sure even if it is in good condition; if you strip a clutch the thinking is replace the clurch friction plate anyway; other bits optional unless broken or obviously well worn.
Have a good look at the clutch housing to see if there are oil streaks on it which means the engine oil seal behind the flywheel is going/gone and has to be replaced; a good idea anyway. I had centre splines fail worn away on a 60k K75RT bike due to lack of lube - everybody said "the ratlle's normal".
On the way into the clutch you will be able to check out the drive shaft splines; front to gearbox should be ok; middle two which slide need a good look; rear one should be ok, but check them all, clean them and lube with good moly such as BMW and Honda sell or even good off the shelf.
Gearbox stickiness could well be the clutch needing lubed; if the gearbox is working ok i would leave it alone though you can replace the front - input shaft - oil seal if any leaks apparent. Have a look at the clutch release thrust bearing which the actuating lever acts on; it should be ok as it runs in oil - unless the rubber boot that encloses it is split which would be leaking on the floor now anyway.
When you have done all this and it still does/does not rattle then you can rule out the clutch and it's then the gearbox and if it works ok what the hell.
i checked all the above on my K11 at 55k and nothing needed urgent action though there were oil streaks from the engine side oil seal, so i replaced that and I replaced the clutch plate and springs anyway.
Hope it helps,
Tony. |
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racinrich
Joined: 24 Jun 2012 Posts: 10 Location: des plaines ill
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:34 am Post subject: trans rattle |
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| the bike just had clutch replaced by x bmw cycle tech,said no leaks from engine/trans input shaft,engine and trans area looks clean and dry not like it was just cleaned,he lubed clutch splines and driveshaft splines,also noted splines looked ok.He used spectro 75w140 in trans and drive unit.noise is mostly at low speeds on accel from lite,constant speed30 40mph not so noticeable,Yes it does sound like a box of rocks!!!I have tried the preload method for a few days,still seem to find false neutrals everywhere,does not like to downshift without banging ,have to be rolling less than20mph for a nice downshift.Seems to shift smoother when cold,but noticed if I drive hard and shift without clutch it will upshift .I trust this techs judgement he has been wrenching /owner at local garage close to me and has a good local reputation,thanks for all info |
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Just re-stating so that understand.
1. You have k1100lt with 106k on it.
2. You are looking at a tranny w/ 20k miles on it as a possible replacement.
3. (Recent) work includes:
3a. Clutch replaced - does that mean "clutch plate" or something else
3b. Lubed clutch and drive shaft splines
C. The noise is mostly at low speeds on acceleration.
Question: at what RPM range?
D. Lite to constant speeds around 30 - 40mph not as noticeable.
E. Finding false neutrals everywhere.
Statement: these bikes require a '"firm" shift with good follow through. Honda's don't care, close is close enough. DAMHIK
F. Does not like to downshift without banging.
FWIW 2006 K1200S's are the same but louder and at times gives feedback thru the seat and grips. (Have one of these)
Question: does it UP shift more smoothy?
G. Have to be rolling less than 20mph for a nice downshift.
Question: At what RPM's?
Question: Is this for all gears?
Question: Do you blip the throttle just before downshifting?
H. Seems to shift smoother when cold.
I. Hard riding and shift without clutch it will upshift.
Question: When was the clutch cable replaced?
Question: Have you checked your cable for proper adjustment? _________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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racinrich
Joined: 24 Jun 2012 Posts: 10 Location: des plaines ill
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:18 pm Post subject: noisy trans |
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disc, plate and spring replaced flywheel ok no blueing or checks
heavy rattle idle to 2500 seems to decrease if roll out of throttle.can still detect lite rattle thru 3500 but not like lo rpm
I usually pull in clutch let rpm drop to idle while decelerating.I guess I'll try to increase rpm before downshift
clutch adjustment? when I pull in clutch bike does not creap,I'd say lever 1 inch out starts to engage,I guess cable streatch is possible
sounds like alot of what I feel is the nature of the beast |
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Rafal Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 257 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 3:59 am Post subject: Re: noisy trans |
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| racinrich wrote: |
I usually pull in clutch let rpm drop to idle while decelerating.I guess I'll try to increase rpm before downshift |
Those motorbikes gear box are so called sequential non synchronized one. So You just can't pull the clutch! You must reduce (down shift) gears as you slow down. And use so called (can find English word :/ ) mid-acceleration (increase rpm), that means: when you are going to down shift, soon as you touch clutch give some twist of wrist to match rpm for lower gear. There is a dry clutch in BMW so the twist must be "early" - wet clutch (eg. most of bikes) don't matter much "when" during clutch pull one increase rpm. (to make it clear read or watch some good guide about using gears in motorcycle - I would recommend "Twist of the wrist").
This way you can reduce gears with no bang - just use it as it should be use.
P.S. Don't take it personal, it's just my personal, general opinion below.
I can see a lot of people starting to ride a motorbike - that good. Yet many of them think of it as "Yet a half of a car" - motorbiking requires a bit more than driving a car, a bit of education . That makes such problem with countersigning, down shifting or braking. The excellent design of modern gearboxes make it less noisy to use them (down shift) in crude "car like" way- just push down, or pull the clutch, slow down and then kick 4 gears down on a red light - sic! BMW gear boxes are more sensitive to proper operation - both by design and dry clutch. So bad habits from car or Japanese bike came up very clear and loud. _________________ Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone , but not to far .
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:31 am Post subject: |
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Rafal is spot on and this is where I was going with my questions.
| Rafal wrote: | Those motorbikes gear box are so called sequential non synchronized one. So You just can't pull the clutch! You must reduce (down shift) gears as you slow down. And use so called (can find English word :/ ) mid-acceleration (increase rpm), that means: when you are going to down shift, soon as you touch clutch give some twist of wrist to match rpm for lower gear. There is a dry clutch in BMW so the twist must be "early" - wet clutch (eg. most of bikes) don't matter much "when" during clutch pull one increase rpm. (to make it clear read or watch some good guide about using gears in motorcycle - I would recommend "Twist of the wrist").
This way you can reduce gears with no bang - just use it as it should be use. |
| racinrich wrote: | | sounds like alot of what I feel is the nature of the beast |
Yes, I suspect it is. Keep this in mind, these are high RPM machines as compared to V-twins and opposed twins.
I think I recall the power band on K1100 being in the 2K-8K RPM area.
But if you want to feel it at its best, ride between the 5K-8K ranges.
I rode Hondas before the K11’s and it took me years to feel good about keeping the RPM’s up. I always felt I was burning up the engine because the V-twins just were happier between 3 and 5K.
Once I got over that, I can ride in 1st & 2nd gear puttzing around town keeping the RPM’s between 4 and 6K and the bike is happy as puppy in a room full of kids with doggy treats. _________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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mikey11000
Joined: 04 Dec 2011 Posts: 21
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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very interesting reading,i to have owned hondas for many years but drive/ride the old fashioned way so to speak,matching engine speed and road speed so my riding style suits the k1100 perfectly.Usually shifting up at around 2500-3000rpm and down shifting with a blip of the throttle and one gear at a time (they really dont like trying to shift 2or 3 gears at a time) i have also found although there are no rattles on idle it does sound a little ruff at low rpm upto about 3-4 thou ,after that it seems rattle free and happy.I thought the slight rattle was maybe more cam chain tention or valve clearance than clutch (very hard to tell)it doesnt bother me as most engines will protest a little as the throttle is wound back.Also would recommend setting the clutch as the service manual suggests as i noticed a big improvment and smoother shifting. _________________ 1997 k1100lt se |
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racinrich
Joined: 24 Jun 2012 Posts: 10 Location: des plaines ill
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:26 pm Post subject: trans rattle |
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thanks for all info ,have road many bikes since the 70's won't take it personal,I just have to learn these technics  |
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