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CROOKED WINDSHIELD

 
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JonFJ



Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:04 pm    Post subject: CROOKED WINDSHIELD Reply with quote

As a 'noob' to the forum, I'm hoping that somebody can advise me with a wee problem I have with my 1994 K1100LT. The windshield is crooked which appears to be because the two lever arms are at different heights on the sliding piece mechanism.

I removed the shield and mechanism from the bike, but cannot figure out how to adjust both arms to the same height.

I'm aware that BMW say that they screws/bolts are 'micro-encapsulated' and that I'll need to replace them, however they're not thick on the ground here in rural New Brunswick!

Are there any K1100 'Wizards' out there who could advise me to to go about dismantling the mechanism, evening out the windshield, and then reassembling?

Thanks,

Jon'
New Brunswick
Canada
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Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unscrew the motor, then you can adjust each spring/cable individually.

But take care when you dismantle the motor and do a only a small adjustement at the time,
so you don`t get the actuator mechanism (blue wheel) out of position relative to the microswitches and the springs/cables.
(It`s easiest to keep things in position if you drive the screen completly down before dismantling).

Test it out by driving it to both outermost positions, before mounting it back on the bike.
The microswitches should limit the travel in both end positions, if not you need to readjust.

If not adjusted properly, you`re in the risk to burn the motor if driving the screen to one of the end positions,
and being bit late to get that finger of the switch.





Inge K.
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JonFJ



Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: CROOKED WINDSHIELD Reply with quote

Thanks very much Inge,

Should I worry about the 'micro encapsulated' screws, or just seal them in with a bit of lock-tite? Could you give me a little bit more information how I go about adjusting the springs once the motor is off?

Jon'

Inge K. wrote:
Unscrew the motor, then you can adjust each spring/cable individually.

But take care when you dismantle the motor and do a only a small adjustement at the time,
so you don`t get the actuator mechanism (blue wheel) out of position relative to the microswitches and the springs/cables.
(It`s easiest to keep things in position if you drive the screen completly down before dismantling).

Test it out by driving it to both outermost positions, before mounting it back on the bike.
The microswitches should limit the travel in both end positions, if not you need to readjust.

If not adjusted properly, you`re in the risk to burn the motor if driving the screen to one of the end positions,
and being bit late to get that finger of the switch.





Inge K.

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Jon' FJ
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Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JonFJ wrote:
Should I worry about the 'micro encapsulated' screws, or just seal them in with a bit of lock-tite? Could you give me a little bit more information how I go about adjusting the springs once the motor is off?

About the screws, I`ve reused them on several bikes w/o any problems, just cleaned the threads and used loctite.

As earlier mentioned first move the screen completly down (then you know at which position everything is related to each other), if the motor stops by itself the actuator mechanism have reached the microswitch, and the screen arm that still is to high needs to be moved down.
If the motor still working when you have reached the down point, it`s the lowest screen arm that needs to be lifted a little bit.

When you reached this far undo the motor, but don`t move anything at the actuator mechanism, and then adjust the remaining part of the mechanism as needed by pushing and pulling on the different single parts as needed.

Sorry, best I can do w/o having the mechanism in front of me, it`s a lot of arms and moving parts.....it should easily become clear how the mechanism functions when the motor is removed and the different parts can be moved.

Whats important is that the mechanism is moved completly down before removing the motor, then you can do whatever you want to the remaining part of the mechanism, as long as it being positioned at the down end of travel before remounting the motor.

Done this on several bikes and disassembled the mechanism completly for cleaning and lubricating after removing the motor....the tubes which the cables/springs runs inside are prone to rust on the inside.....a revised version of these tubes came ~-95.

Inge K.
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

God morning Jon....

What Inge says: ""..Whats important is that the mechanism is moved completly down before removing the motor, then you can do whatever you want to the remaining part of the mechanism, as long as it being positioned at the down end of travel before remounting the motor. "".... is the MOST important thing to be sure. When I disassembled my screen mechanism, it was not completely down and as soon as I returned the power the motor tried to reach the switch-0ff position cam but could not. ie: motor continues to be energized without motion and thus could 'burn out'. It took me several hours of 'positioning work' to then readjust not knowing exactly where the 'end position' was designed to be.

So... safe yourself a lot of grief... and do as Inge has advised. The loctite will keep the screws just where they need to be!

Good luck.........// Ernie in NH
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JonFJ



Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Inge and Ernie,

Thanks for all of your help guys. This evening I took my socket set to the motor, removed it from the rest of the mechanism, and then adjusted as best I could. I've reattached using locktite, and there is a massive improvement.

I'd like to note for you both, and for everyone else who reads this, that it was only joining this forum that got my problem solved, and all thanks to my 'Brothers on K11's'.

All the best,

Jon'

Ernie-NH wrote:
Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

God morning Jon....

What Inge says: ""..Whats important is that the mechanism is moved completly down before removing the motor, then you can do whatever you want to the remaining part of the mechanism, as long as it being positioned at the down end of travel before remounting the motor. "".... is the MOST important thing to be sure. When I disassembled my screen mechanism, it was not completely down and as soon as I returned the power the motor tried to reach the switch-0ff position cam but could not. ie: motor continues to be energized without motion and thus could 'burn out'. It took me several hours of 'positioning work' to then readjust not knowing exactly where the 'end position' was designed to be.

So... safe yourself a lot of grief... and do as Inge has advised. The loctite will keep the screws just where they need to be!

Good luck.........// Ernie in NH

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carp
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 09 Jan 2009
Posts: 159
Location: Minnesota

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has been out of sync for quite a while. I have been paranoid about burning up the motor. With this info, I may try to sync it. Thanks!
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