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She wont start (I suspected to fuel pump)

 
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Tony627



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 20
Location: Kent, England

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:54 pm    Post subject: She wont start (I suspected to fuel pump) Reply with quote

Hi all
I hope that the summer provided lots of opportunities to hit the road (no pun intended). The summer here in south east England was a non event. I was all set to go to France for a few days and thought that I would service the brakes. The day before I cleaned her. Now she wont start...... It began with a strange deep vibrating sound then the fuel pump stopped priming. I have removed it and wired it up to prove that it works. When I switch on the fuel gauge works. but still no sound from the tank. I did tidy the wiring to the tank but only to re route it as the last owner messed it up. Can anyone give me a steer? So much for four days in France.

Cheers everyone

Tony
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Inge K.
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Joined: 30 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel pump is grounded at the fuel level sensor, check that connection.

Inge K.
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a bad connection in the fuel gauge sender unit which would not allow the fuel pump to operate. A new (used) sender unit fixed the issue.

Check the connector to the fuel gauge sender unit (the plug under the right hand side panel), the one that you have to disconnect to remove the fuel tank, it is often the cause of the bad connection.

Mine however was actually in the molded white plug directly under the tank. As it was a sealed unit, there was no way to repair, just had to replace the whole unit. All fixed for now...

A rather lengthy thread of my issues with this devil...

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8412,
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had an experience this week. Happened twice. Same problem had guages but no pump. Bypassed sidestand s witch, pump worked fine. I had run 120 miles in the rain the weekend before.So try bypassing your switch and see what happens.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update, today I had another "no fuel pump" when turning on the key. Even with the sidestand switch jumpered out, so I think I can rule that out as the culpret.
I reseated the plug on the top of the motronic module and the pump fired right off.
time will tell now......
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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DaveVoorhis
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Joined: 22 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tank connector is a common point of failure. Replace it thusly:

I bet that will cure it. It worked for me.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So how do you unhook that when you need to remove the tank?
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DaveVoorhis
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
So how do you unhook that when you need to remove the tank?

I use a small screwdriver. It adds an extra ten seconds or so to removing the tank, but I don't do it often enough to mind and the added reliability is worth it.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer something a little more "plug and play".

This is a slick four wire connector I got from Jim at Eastern Beaver after I demolished my factory connector (for no good reason, it turns out! Twisted Evil ).

Unfortunately due to the age of my bike and issues I've had with it (and farklizing!) I am frequently removing my tank.



Nice, neat and almost factory. I love the Eastern Beaver stuff. I have the headlight relay kit, two driving light kits, the heated grip relay kit and this plug.

If had any more Beaver on my bike, my wife would get jealous!

Alway the best quality and Jim is a real human that will reply to emails and is an electronic genius, in my humble opinion.
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Last edited by Stoked Steve on Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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malcolmt
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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVoorhis wrote:
The tank connector is a common point of failure. Replace it thusly:

I bet that will cure it. It worked for me.


EEK... you should see the crap I give the electricians at work when the patch up wires with "chocolate block"

The only thing which annoys me more is when they use a tie wrap and cant be arsed to cut the tail off neatly.

When the fuel pump connector died on both my K's they were replaced with a decent 4 pole connector from the local electronics shoppe.

One of my pump problems turned out to be an intermittent connection on the inside of the tank. the thought of arcing in there spooked me a little. Shocked
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Tim (Midland Section)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, I agree with Malcolm.
Choc Block (so named, coz when I was a lad it wasn't plastic, it was Bakelite & looked like a chocolate bar) is a prove it, not a permanent repair. If that is all you have, for reliabilities sake, consider smothering it in Vaseline (petroleum jelly) or my favourite, spray chain grease to protect from the future Derbyshire weather.

Malcolm,
Don't go worrying about arcing wires, to explode, one needs petrol & air in the ratio of 1:17 ish. As it is submerged, there is no air.
Consider also, the fuel pump is a DC brush motor which arcs better than any duff connection. How many K's, F's & R's would be a smouldering heap at the roadside if it could ignite & would you want your balls to be that close to such a potential fireball Question Question Laughing Laughing
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malcolmt
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Joined: 23 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
Dave, I agree with Malcolm.
Choc Block (so named, coz when I was a lad it wasn't plastic, it was Bakelite & looked like a chocolate bar) is a prove it, not a permanent repair. If that is all you have, for reliabilities sake, consider smothering it in Vaseline (petroleum jelly) or my favourite, spray chain grease to protect from the future Derbyshire weather.

Malcolm,
Don't go worrying about arcing wires, to explode, one needs petrol & air in the ratio of 1:17 ish. As it is submerged, there is no air.
Consider also, the fuel pump is a DC brush motor which arcs better than any duff connection. How many K's, F's & R's would be a smouldering heap at the roadside if it could ignite & would you want your balls to be that close to such a potential fireball Question Question Laughing Laughing



I should have been more descriptive.
Any arcing isnt a hazzard when submerged, I run my tank LOW and the thought of a spark when running on the dregs.
I'd presume the pump is hermetically sealed as a leathal air/fuel mixute could exist if the cap was opened for a peek at the level without filling past the pump.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Malcolm - I don't think you'd have to open the cap - I'm sure as the fuel level goes down, the space in the tank that formerly had gas in it is filled with air and gas fumes. I could be wrong...
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malcolmt
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
Malcolm - I don't think you'd have to open the cap - I'm sure as the fuel level goes down, the space in the tank that formerly had gas in it is filled with air and gas fumes. I could be wrong...


You are quite right Embarassed
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Tony627



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
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Location: Kent, England

PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys Still no luck although, I have yet to change to the tank connector plug. I have stripped out the tank and each component works on the bench. So, the plug is next. Maybe t should have been first Embarassed .

One other thing although not related. I have come across a part of the loom under the seat on the left. From it comes two wires the first is quite thin with a female spade connector and the other is thicker with a simple washer type connector. both are live.

Can anyone tell me where they should attached. ...

Eventually I will get to the bottom of this bike!!

Thanks in anticipation.

Tony
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony - when you reference wires, it always helps to say what colour/s they are.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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DaveVoorhis
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Joined: 22 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
Dave, I agree with Malcolm.
Choc Block (so named, coz when I was a lad it wasn't plastic, it was Bakelite & looked like a chocolate bar) is a prove it, not a permanent repair. If that is all you have, for reliabilities sake, consider smothering it in Vaseline (petroleum jelly) or my favourite, spray chain grease to protect from the future Derbyshire weather.

That pic was taken about eight seconds after I installed it, and three seconds before I covered it with grease. Very Happy

I prefer a connector block because when it fails, it will take five minutes to replace with another connector block. Any other connector, when it fails (and it will), will have to be spliced in.
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Tony627



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
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Location: Kent, England

PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jim

Thanks for the prompt reply....So stupid of me....

There are three wire going into the washer type connector, they are all brown. The other smaller wire is coming from the first connector and has a female spade connector at the end, this is black.

I hope that clarifies a query that I made difficult in the first place!!

Cheers

Tony
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Inge K.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is the diagnostic connector for ABS and Motronic.

Inge K.


Last edited by Inge K. on Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Jim
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure brown is ground.

Many wires have a secondary color stripe - it helps to know what color the stripe is too when you're trying to figure out what a wire does.

Do you have a schematic? I think there's a link to one in one of the tech stickies.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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