K11 Owners Group

[Thedodge]

Clutch is slipping under heavy load, due to my oil leak. Engine oil, not gearbox. I don't have a problem doing this work, i am trying to find out if there is a way of removing the back end of the bike without disconnecting tha abs modulator, rather, unbolting and "tying"it up out of the way? Any first hand information from those who have done this would be much appreciated.
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K1100 lt 97'

[whyoldbill]

[2xcelr8]

+1 I agree 100%. Been there, tried that. You can't move it far enough with the hard lines connected.
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Doug
'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale)

[Scott_Anderson]

Dont' waste your time trying to avoid removing it. At the very least remove/disconnect the brake(hard) lines, you can leave the electrical connected and tie the unit up out of the way and be ok. I did this with my '97 when I did my clutch spline lube, only cause I hadn't figured out how to remove the cover over the electrical connections.

I removed the entire assembly when I did the clutch on the '95 and believe me it was a whole lot easier working in there without that abs unit hanging in the way.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Rafal]

Hello!

When changing the output seal one must remember, that the new seal have to be installed dry and it must face 0,5 mm above engine block surface.
And remember to mark clutch housing assembly parts in order to put them back the same way the were assembled in factory (balancing issue).

Best regards,
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Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone , but not to far .

[micky77]

Any tricks to installing a new seal and keeping the face at 0.5 mm above the block surface?

[Scott_Anderson]

Very slow and carefully.
I personally fabricated a setting tool out of a black iron pipe coupling and a couple of worm band clamps. It wasn't perfect but it did work.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Rafal]

[old guy old bike]

I have a buddy that works at a GM dealer. They had a seal tool that worked perfect. He didn't know what it actually fit because the mechanics just had a big box of seal installation tools and grab the one that looks right to them. Not sure that it is an effective process at the hourly rates charged.

Anyway, I just gave him my old seal and he matched it up.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

[Flying Duck]

If it were the rear main seal leaking then it wouldn't oil the clutch. The clutch nut O-ring on the other hand...
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Thedodge]

[jr'sbmw]

I pull the abs unit up on my LT and wire it to a small piece of wood across the frame. Then remove the bolts holding the tray. I have never had trouble removing the tray and have done this on 3 occasions without problems.

[micky77]

So back to the rear main seal - how does one know if it needs replaced or not. I.E. - oil dripping out, physical burn, or what - thanks.

[Flying Duck]

If your weep hole is weeping then you need to take the transmission off to determine where the oil is leaking. If it's leaking inside the clutch basket then it's the O-ring. If it's leaking in front of the clutch basket then it's the seal.

If it's been leaking for a while and has contaminated your clutch plate then it's the O-ring.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Number 6]

[kstones]

the ABS unit is a bugger but has to be moved to get out many pieces including the gearbox itself. when i did my clutch i could not see how to remove the ABS completely (how to disconnect the cables) so i just disconnected the pipes and hung it up. A real PITA. The swage nut spanners (wrenches??) i found here in the UK would not fit over some of the nuts as the spanner walls were too thick; so i put had a look to see where they were being restricted and put them in the vice and filed them down with a nice big rough rasp so that they fitted fully over the nuts; you don't want the nuts getting rounded off so don't be afraid of filing down the spanners as much as you need; you'll still have plenty of wall thickness to do the job. If a spanner goes AWOL on you it's cheap to get another; not so if you round off a swaged end pipe nut!! The bleeding of the system is not a big job; bleed it down to the ABS unit first, then go to the calipers one at a time, filling and bleeding till air bubble free at each stage.
i was told later you can get the ABS unit off by disconnecting that bunch of cables going into it by removing a cover on the back of the unit and then getting at a plug unit underneath the cover. That would have made life a lot easier.
Getting the exhaust off needs a 13mm for all the exhaust nuts; but if they're tight and corroded then you might need a 12 mm "tapped" on to do the removal. A stud breakage is nasty but will need individual attention. A full set of new studs and nuts and gasket rings makes a nice job of the refit.
my main problem though was supporting the engine and the rest of the bike when the stand and the gearbox itself are removed. However you do it make it safe - i'm sure you DON'T need to be told that, but just in case....!!
The German way of putting all the bits together left me quite unimpressed by the lack of consideration for us poor buggers who need to get in there after normal use. With the ABS out of the way it is all a lot easier.
When putting the new O ring onto the end of the output shaft first wrap the threads with electrical tape as many times round as need to smooth the threads and preserve the O ring while getting it onto the shaft, then take off the tape.
The necessity of the correct seal position can be understood as you should be able to see the drain hole further in after the seal has been fitted; the consequences of covering it are obvious. Just tap it in a little at a time with a bit oversize socket or maybe something more refined and have good look before doing any more and do not go too far.
After you finish each stage of the rebuild take time to go round all the bolts and nuts etc you've fitted and check they're tight; i didn't do that with the centre stand and found it hanging off a bit after getting back on the road and had to fix it correctly then; oh dear.
As they say it's not a big job; just a hell of a lot of little ones, one after another.
Good luck
Tony.

[Jeeves]

[Number 6]

[Scott_Anderson]

[Number 6]