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K1100LT (95) won't start
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AlxRogan
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Jan 2006
Posts: 29
Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:38 pm    Post subject: K1100LT (95) won't start Reply with quote

1995 K1100LT. Ok, I've read several threads about fuel pump relays and wiring harnesses, but I don't think that is the issue on mine. It has sat up for a while with a dead battery while I got a new son. I replaced the battery with the replacement gel cell and tried to fire it up. When the key is turned on, I hear a "clunk" from the fuel pump, rather than the whirr or nothing. When I disconnect the 4-wire harness, I get no sound when the key is turned on, as I would expect.

In addition, I tried to remove the gas cap/lid assembly to check power to the pump and one of the effin screws stripped out. So now I'm locked out of that as well.

I'm really tempted to just call a hauler and bring the bike into the shop, but I wants to see if any of the experts around here might have an idea.

Thanks for any thoughts you might have.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the fuel pump is frozen. Those can often be freed up by soaking it in Techron for a few days.

Stripped screw: If you're VERY careful you can drill the head off and grab what's left in the hole with some vice grips to get the rest of it out once the cap is removed.

Those are nasty little screws. In order to make sure you don't strip the heads it's a good idea to clean out the Phillips slots of crud with something like a sewing needle or dental pick and use lots of downward force with a good screwdriver to get them to break free.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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AlxRogan
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Jan 2006
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Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really appreciate the fast response!

I thought about trying a screw extractor, as I've never tried to drill out a screw before. I might try to google some methods and see if I feel comfortable with them.

If I can get inside the gas cap, will I need to drain and remove the tank to remove the pump and soak it, or can it be removed while the tank is on?

Thanks!
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95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or instead of hauling the bike to a dealer- just bring them the tank.
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AlxRogan
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Joined: 24 Jan 2006
Posts: 29
Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good point. If I can't get cap screws off, I'll just pull the tank and bring that. I'm going to try a screw extractor first, but if that fails I'll do this.

Thanks!
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AlxRogan
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Joined: 24 Jan 2006
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Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, just put in a few gallons of Chevron Supreme, didn't realize the tank was so low. We'll see how it works in a few days. With the weather being so nice, I've been itching to ride again.

I also picked up a set of screw extractors and titanium drill bits, so when I get up the nerve, I can try and back that out.

Thanks for the help Flying Duck and SugarHillCTD!
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant pulling the fuel pump out and soaking it in a jar of Tehcron concentrate.

When you get the cap off:

1) Siphon out all of the gas you just put in.

2) You don't need to remove the nuts on the nylon ring around the fuel pump. Just depress the tangs on the front and rear of the ring to free the fuel pump.

3) The two nuts for the power supply wires are 7mm and 8mm.


That's a pretty small screw for an easy-out. (a.k.a. screw extractor) I'd try drilling the head off first.

(I became an expert at this sort of stuff when I owned a beater MG in college. Laughing)
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93 LT (x2)
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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AlxRogan
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Joined: 24 Jan 2006
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Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh well, guess I should have researched it a bit more. I'll let it sit overnight and siphon it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the removal instructions, I'll do that tomorrow. One of the extractors is 7/64, so maybe it will be small enough. If not, I'll bump it up a few sizes and try to get the head off.

Thanks again!
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AlxRogan
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Joined: 24 Jan 2006
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Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 6:25 pm    Post subject: Partial success! Reply with quote

Ok, I was able to follow Flying Ducks instructions and get the broken screw head removed and get the gas cap off. I drained the tank mostly and was able to remove the fuel pump. I have it soaking in a container of Techron right now.

There are a few questions I have now that I have seen the innards of this thing.

What's the sack on the bottom of the fuel pump, and can it be easily sourced/replaced? Mine is pretty trashed as seen below.


The greenish power going to the fuel pump has about 1 inch of the insulation that's flaked off and shows bare wire. Any recommendations on what I can use to protect this inside gas? Would electrical tape hold up?

After I got my gas cap off, I noticed how dirty it has gotten with some kind of particulate buildup. Any thoughts on what kind of solution to use to try and dissolve it and clean it off? I tried some carb cleaner, since I had it at hand, but it didn't seem to do too much.


Hopefully I can get that pump to unfreeze and get it working again. If not, I might have to try Flying Duck's alternate pump method, we'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sack is a basic fuel filter to remove large particles before they enter the fuel pump. If the original pump comes back to life, an OEM replacement sock is in order, check MAX BMW. If you have to replace it, the Duck substitute comes with it's own sock.

The underside of that cap shows signs of excess moisture in the tank, as a result of sitting to long. I'd say a full tank removal and thorough cleaning is in order. Not sure if any cleaner willl remove that crust, maybe CLR and a stiff wire brush and elbow grease.

The pump probably needs to to soak for a few days to see if it'll free up, it's probably corroded like the underside of that cap.

If it ever has to sit for a long time again, it's a good idea to have a full tank of fuel or drain it completely.
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re the missing insulation, no electrical tape won't work, the petrol will dissolve the glue, would suggest heatshrink.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a new sock from a dealer.

The crap on the gasket for the gas cap is normal and nothing to worry about. (I wouldn't.)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That filler assembly needs a flapperectomy...
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
That filler assembly needs a flapperectomy...


NOOOOOoooo....... Shocked
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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AlxRogan
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Jan 2006
Posts: 29
Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I'm waiting for the pump to hopefully unstick, I'll give a brush a go at the cap gunk.

The heat shrink is a great idea, I'll pick some up.

As for the flapperectomy, I'm torn. It's a total PITA sometimes, but I do like having a last little stop there to keep crap out.

Thanks again!

EDIT: I found the pre-filter/strainer at MAX BMW, $47. Does anyone think that using some kind of attatched screen/3rd party sock would be appropriate to use?
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83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlxRogan wrote:
While I'm waiting for the pump to hopefully unstick, I'll give a brush a go at the cap gunk.

The heat shrink is a great idea, I'll pick some up.

As for the flapperectomy, I'm torn. It's a total PITA sometimes, but I do like having a last little stop there to keep crap out.

Thanks again!

EDIT: I found the pre-filter/strainer at MAX BMW, $47. Does anyone think that using some kind of attatched screen/3rd party sock would be appropriate to use?


Is that a typo? Or do they really want $47 for that screen? A&S is showing an older version for $17.00... I can't think the newer one is that much more. http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51711&catID=16&catname=16+Fuel+Supply
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
AlxRogan wrote:
While I'm waiting for the pump to hopefully unstick, I'll give a brush a go at the cap gunk.

The heat shrink is a great idea, I'll pick some up.

As for the flapperectomy, I'm torn. It's a total PITA sometimes, but I do like having a last little stop there to keep crap out.

Thanks again!

EDIT: I found the pre-filter/strainer at MAX BMW, $47. Does anyone think that using some kind of attatched screen/3rd party sock would be appropriate to use?


Is that a typo? Or do they really want $47 for that screen? A&S is showing an older version for $17.00... I can't think the newer one is that much more. http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51711&catID=16&catname=16+Fuel+Supply


If you follow your link Jim you'll find that it's 46.68. Shocked
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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AlxRogan
Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Jan 2006
Posts: 29
Location: Katy, TX

PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I made sure I read it a few times, I was shocked as well. Hopefully there's something that could be adapted to still fit and flow enough.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Jim wrote:
AlxRogan wrote:
While I'm waiting for the pump to hopefully unstick, I'll give a brush a go at the cap gunk.

The heat shrink is a great idea, I'll pick some up.

As for the flapperectomy, I'm torn. It's a total PITA sometimes, but I do like having a last little stop there to keep crap out.

Thanks again!

EDIT: I found the pre-filter/strainer at MAX BMW, $47. Does anyone think that using some kind of attatched screen/3rd party sock would be appropriate to use?


Is that a typo? Or do they really want $47 for that screen? A&S is showing an older version for $17.00... I can't think the newer one is that much more. http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51711&catID=16&catname=16+Fuel+Supply


If you follow your link Jim you'll find that it's 46.68. Shocked


Oh, thanks - I was looking at the wrong one...
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlxRogan wrote:
Yeah, I made sure I read it a few times, I was shocked as well. Hopefully there's something that could be adapted to still fit and flow enough.


That part should last many, many, many years. It's probably one of the cheaper parts on the bike per mile - just bite the bullet and get it - it'll be easier than trying to rig up something that probably won't work anyway.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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