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Too much for an earth?

 
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BMGraeme
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Joined: 14 Mar 2006
Posts: 373
Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:49 pm    Post subject: Too much for an earth? Reply with quote

Not having had to consider this before and realising it might be a daft question but here goes. I'm fitting a pair of fogs and spots to the K11RS., total draw about 20amps. In the process I thought I would make the wiring up front a little neater in readiness to install a simple fuse block somewhere up around the headlight area. A number of years ago I fitted a headlamp relay from Eastern Beaver and in the process of the tidying up stripped back the connections I made at the time, revealing an unused earth lead that I had forgotten all about. Now, I need to earth the fogs and spots and this earth is positioned perfectly where I could tap the 4 earths into. This would save having to route the cables up to the main frame earth under the tank. So my daft question is - is this too much to put onto one, not exactly huge diametre earth wire?

My logic is telling me this is fine but thought I had better ask the collective. Thanks in advance.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, if your load is actually going to be in the 20A range you are going to want a wire at least 15AWG size or 12AWG size would be better.

I wouldn't try to tap them into the tail you have hanging there as most likely it's not big enough.
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BMGraeme
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Joined: 14 Mar 2006
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Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Well, if your load is actually going to be in the 20A range you are going to want a wire at least 15AWG size or 12AWG size would be better.

I wouldn't try to tap them into the tail you have hanging there as most likely it's not big enough.


Yeah, having thought about it a bit more I'm thinking I should split the load. It's unlikely, but possible, that I could have the fogs and the spots on at the same time albeit briefly.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about your road rules over there, but here where I am at we are allowed only 2 acc lights lit at any one time.
I have my driving acc lights and fog lights wired to a 3-way switch so I can only have one set on at a time.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You circuit may have a 20A fuse but I doubt your lights draw that much power. That would make them 120W each - which would be pretty dang bright. The wattage of the bulbs divided by the watts tells you many amps they are actually drawing.

I run a pair of 70W(140W total) aux lights on a 15A fuse. They came with a 20A fuse but that's overkill if you ask me.

If you use wire that's too small not only will it generate heat but you'll lose some voltage and hence some light.

Wiring chart - I'd go a size or two bigger(smaller gauge number) just because)

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/SensibleWiring.aspx
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BMGraeme
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Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
You circuit may have a 20A fuse but I doubt your lights draw that much power. That would make them 120W each - which would be pretty dang bright. The wattage of the bulbs divided by the watts tells you many amps they are actually drawing.

I run a pair of 70W(140W total) aux lights on a 15A fuse. They came with a 20A fuse but that's overkill if you ask me.

If you use wire that's too small not only will it generate heat but you'll lose some voltage and hence some light.

Wiring chart - I'd go a size or two bigger(smaller gauge number) just because)

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/SensibleWiring.aspx


I have 2 x fogs @ 55w each = 110watt
plus 2 x spots @ 55w each = 110watt

In theory this is just under 20A. I wouldn't have both sets on together by choice, but could forget, so the safest option is to run to the frame as seperate sets. Strangely, I seemed to have answered my own question. As an afterthought, I could take the switched power for the fogs relay from dipped beam so if I hit the hi beam switch, the fogs would automatically turn off.

I think I will just run seperate earths and be done with it. Sometimes elegance has to lose out to brute force.
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BMGraeme wrote:
Sometimes elegance has to lose out to brute force.


Over-engineered circuits don't let the magic smoke out, either....
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy

Hi guys...

I know I'm being petty to point this out :

"" The wattage of the bulbs divided by the watts tells you many amps they are actually drawing. ""

OK ???? P= E x I so I = P / E

Best regards all...........// Ernie in NH
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, I meant watts divided by volts.

Wattage divided by watts would always be 1. Laughing
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merlin geikie
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Joined: 26 Dec 2008
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Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha ha we knew what you meant Laughing

I have heard you mention the K12 RS as being value and a good bike.

Flying Duck, you have K11s but what do you seriously think of the K12RS for the shade tree wrench with not a lot of loot? Wink

They're big and expensive looking, but apart from that are they full of glitches and bmw do'hs... ??Wink

Seen a heap of em on the market here and the early ones, before servo, look OK, eat tyres, engine oil seals and clutch slave cylinders, but seem to be OK, but not so much of a work-horse camper as the K11. Wink

What you reckon please Sir?

All the very best in flood-free riding Embarassed
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ljjohns
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Joined: 21 Oct 2006
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Location: El Paso

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merlin:

While there's not much commentary on the K12 series on the BMWMOA site, I think you'll find some useful info on the BMWLT.com site; while focused on the LT series, the other K12 models get their share of attention and substantial amounds of info apply to the whole K12 series.
I'd suggest you check it out.

Larry Johnson
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BMGraeme
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally, the Condura weather proof rocker switch has arrived for the fogs. It's a bit bigger than I had thought so need to find a place to mount it. I had thought about the dash on the RS just left of the ignition switch area but I think thats out now. The obvious area now is the left hand fairing panel just below the plastic louvered infill - anyone had experience of cutting a small reactangular hole here and what worked best to do it?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

merlin geikie wrote:
Flying Duck, you have K11s but what do you seriously think of the K12RS for the shade tree wrench with not a lot of loot?


I honestly don't know. I've ridden one though and it was plenty fun. Always liked the "taxi cab" paint job.


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BMGraeme
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Joined: 14 Mar 2006
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Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BMGraeme wrote:
Finally, the Condura weather proof rocker switch has arrived for the fogs. It's a bit bigger than I had thought so need to find a place to mount it. I had thought about the dash on the RS just left of the ignition switch area but I think thats out now. The obvious area now is the left hand fairing panel just below the plastic louvered infill - anyone had experience of cutting a small reactangular hole here and what worked best to do it?


In the end it does fit left of the ignition switch with plenty of clearance underneath - works a treat. Have also wired the SatNav into the alarm connector so this is now switched power.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Square hole: Drill a starter hole and then use a jig/reciprocating saw. Like a power outlet in your house.

Note that there is metal sandwiched in the middle of the knee panel so you'll want to use a saw blade capable of cutting metal.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A small dremel works good too.
That's what I have used for some of my switch modifications.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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