K11 Owners Group

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 11:28 pm Post subject:

Pull the pump. Put some 12V power to it for a second. (Smaller diameter terminal is positive.) See if you can hear it "trying." If it seems like it wants to go then soak it in some FI cleaner for several days. I brought one back from the dead that way.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jim · Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:59 am Post subject:

Welcome to K11!

Here ya go, Greg: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6454

You'll probably want to think about replacing the brake lines if they're the originals. Spiegler sells a decent set. If they don't have a kit for your bike, you'll need to send your lines in - they'll make up a replacement set for you.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

merlin geikie · Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:04 am Post subject:

Jim writes;

Frank · Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:54 pm Post subject:

G'day Greg

Good to see another Aussie on the site.

If you want to get parts for your bike at prices that are better than the dealers, (not sure who does them in Canberra now) try
Munich Motorcycles in Perth, link: http://www.munichmotorcycles.com.au/ or
Motohansa in Sydney http://www.motohansa.com.au/

Also try Anders at EuroTune in Queanbeyan, he used to be the BM dealer.

I used to live in Canberra/Queanbeyan about 15 years ago, great riding around there.

Good luck with getting the K up and running and don't forget to come here and get advice, these blokes are very knowledgeable ( also great $hit stirrers as well).
_________________
Ride safe

Frank
Gold Coast Australia

BMW 1997 K1100LT - White

Ulysses Member 33144
StruggleTown Tourers

garynali · Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:13 pm Post subject:

Gday Greg
Anouther welcome to the site, as you've no doubt worked out this place is the bee's knees for K bikers. Good to have anouther Aussie. This mail is coming to you from Horn island in the Torress Straights. I hope to be home in Hervey Bay by xmas eve with some time to put a few klicks on the old beema. Wishing you a merry xmas and lots of fun on your new toy.
Gary Chadwick
93 K1100RS ( BLUE )

drikko · Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:49 pm Post subject:

Hi Greg,
Good to see another aussie here, that's some nasty looking gunge in the tank there! I'll bet the pump is full of it too so I'd be pulling it out and flush it and the tank thoroughly before I did anything else and a new fuel filter!. Munich tends to be rather expensive, we're fortunate in Brissy to have the BM Shop who aren't too bad but lots of normal service items are on ebay and often cheaper through there.

Hope you didn't get flooded out last week!

Cheers

D
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde

GregRST · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:01 am Post subject:

No floods but our dams have gone from 40% full or less as of last year (after 4-5 yrs of drought) to near full capacity in the last 6 months of rain!!!
Starting to dry out now a bit!!!

I have a few days off over Xmas so its a good time to get stuck into the K100. Made good progress today. Lower fairing off, tank off (easy..woohoo!!), battery out (well and truely dead....had to drop the rear inner guard to get ot out!) and a good degrease and clean. Must be the first wash since 1985!! Shocked

The tank looks to be the major issue but a quick test with some carby cleaner got the gunk moving so I expect a soak in acetone or similar will be the go...just gotta watch the paint!!! Rolling Eyes

Bad news is I got 3 of the 4 sender screws out......the 4th one aint budging!!!!! Evil or Very Mad

And of course some pics....

Lower fairing off and tank about to be removed...

Rail and injectors close up.......

Tank off....

_________________
Greg
85-K100RS

robleyd · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:20 am Post subject:

Welcome from another Aussie, down south-ish Smile

Stubborn screws may be eased by a combination of 50/50 diesel and ATF applied and left for a day or six; replace the diesel with bio diesel and it improves somewhat.
_________________
David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject:

I usually wouldn't recommend their use but Vise-Grips might help on the fourth fuel level sender screw.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Ted · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 3:44 pm Post subject:

Haha you're going to end up doing a complete spline lube in no time Wink

It is actually a pretty good idea! When you're in there see if you have the first-half '85 6-screws on the output shaft - BMW moved to a 12-screw setup after the 6-screw proved to be a failure point. If you have the 6, just make sure none are loose or rounding out.

Some other things to check:

Check the little rubber platform pegs that hold up the battery tray
Inspect/replace the alternator clutch dampners aka the monkeynutz - part# 12311464877, #9 in this pic:

Clear the weephole in the oil/water pump with a pipe cleaner or similar
Carefully check the rear master cylinder resevoir - the early ones were fully exposed to the sun and broke down, becoming chalky and brittle
Carefully torque the exhaust header bolts - they like to come loose resulting in pipe and pipe mount cracks
remove turn signal and running light bulbs, clean bulbs and sockets with contact cleaner and a Q-tip, lube with dielectric grease if you like
(Note, use of dielectric grease on signal carrying connections like the jetronic connector is a matter of dispute, with some arguing that it interrupts the signals and others saying it is fine. There are signal connection versions of dielectric grease, quite pricey though.)
Carefully check all wiring looms for chafing or sloppy aftermarket installations

The joys of resurrecting a bike Smile

_________________

Ted

KOG#1

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 4:30 pm Post subject:

drikko · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 5:20 pm Post subject:

GregRST · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:35 pm Post subject:

Diesel and ATF eh? Ok will give it a go...have tried the wd-40 and vice grips and it aint moving...buggered the screw a bit too.... Evil or Very Mad

Am thinking Ill replace the screws wit hex head bolts.
As for the other sugestions I think...
Clear the weephole in the oil/water pump with a pipe cleaner or similar (check)
Carefully check the rear master cylinder resevoir - the early ones were fully exposed to the sun and broke down, becoming chalky and brittle
(check - I am amazed BMW located it where it is!!!! What the?? Is there a later model shape that can be adapted and sits higher up?)

Carefully torque the exhaust header bolts - they like to come loose resulting in pipe and pipe mount cracks (check - I always do this on my bikes...amazing how they never get checked and after 20 odd years are always loose!!)

Carefully check all wiring looms for chafing or sloppy aftermarket installations (check - PO has added a 12 volt socket to the battery but otherwise wiring looks intact so far).

Question - Fuel rail and injector removal....is it just the 2 rail bolts and then pull out??? Carefully.......

Thanks all!!!!!!! Very Happy

_________________
Greg
85-K100RS

merlin geikie · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:56 pm Post subject:

Ted writes,

drikko · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:46 pm Post subject:

GregRST · Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:15 am Post subject:

More progress today.... Very Happy

Back to the sender screw.... Evil or Very Mad

After all sorts of lube, tapping and swearing I decided the aussie sun might help things along...so left the sender base exposed to the sun with some penetrating oil for a few hours..and bingo...vice grips and it moved!!! Very Happy

Then focussed on the internals. The pump terminal nuts actually come off ok. The rubber lines were mush so I just cut them. The pump came out ok but anything rubber in the tank has degenerated into mush!! Shocked

My hands were black with toxic carbons so decided to go and get gloves at this stage..anyway I will soak the pump but I expect its well and truely cactus. Got the sender and wires out...even more mess. Got stuck into the tank internals with whatever solvents I had handy..with some gentle scraping I can see nice clean aluminium base. Tank is now soaking with some gravel inside with the periodic shake up.

Here's the pump and associated bits...the bottom screen was free of the base and there is nothing left of the screen pre filter!!

_________________
Greg
85-K100RS

drikko · Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:35 am Post subject:

I've seen someone add gravel, wrap their tank up in some mattress foam then stick it in their concrete mixer for a few hours adjusting the angle every 10 minutes or so. Worked a treat, only use small gravel though so it doesn't dent.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde

GregRST · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:37 am Post subject:

Yep small gravel only and not too vigorous on the shaking..tank internals coming along nicely....looking 80% clean and shiney so far... Very Happy

It's official....pump is dead...after soaking in petrol and injector cleaner and a good external clean up I put 12 volts across the terminals and.......nuthin!! Rolling Eyes

I nabbed a GMH fuel pump of Oz ebay for $40 with the same specs so will see if I can adapt this when it arrives. Confused

Seems either a Ryco Z200 or Z202 filter may do the trick....and is easier to get from the local parts store off the shelf. New fuel line of course.

Injectors...hmmmm..still watching those reconditioned ones on US ebay...will cost about the same to get the current ones done here in Oz so the US ebay ones look like a good deal.

Next question....does the fuel return line into the tank have an inlet pressure valve on it (or something???) or is it just a direct entry into the tank? Should I be able to blow air freely into the return entry tube?
_________________
Greg
85-K100RS

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:47 am Post subject:

As far as I know the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator to the tank should flow freely. There's no valve in the line.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

GregRST · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:19 am Post subject:

Correct you are FD...the return hole was blocked solid!!!!

Spent several hours more on the tank and had to get into it with some manual scraping of the interior combined with various solvents. Got it to about 80% clean and had a break.....dried the tank in the hot sun for a few hours and...the remaining 20% of the gunk turned to cooked dust and started falling off!!! Very Happy

So more hours scraping and now its 99% clean aluminium.....yeh!!! Beemered

Managed to save the pump bracket assembly too..it cleaned up ok.
Lookin good so far.....I wish all tanks were aluminium...great idea!!!! If it was a steel tank it surely would have been a lot harder to save.
_________________
Greg
85-K100RS