K11 Owners Group

[GregRST]

Hi all....my first post here as a BMW owner. Im Greg in Canberra, Australia.

Thanks to the K bike thread on the ADV forum I got interested in K bikes and started reading up on them. I have a always had Japanese bikes and projects and currently have a few on the go but wanted something practical, tough, classic, sporty and maybe European. So a K bike looked very interesting and seemed to fit the bill.

I thought a nice K75S or RT would be the go but they seem a bit rarer in Oz and prices are pretty good for even an average example. There are certainly more K100s out there, and more in various states of repair with a good range of prices. I really wanted something I could work on and restore and then get on the road.

So after some research and feedback on ADV I located 2 possible K100RSs. One was about 1 hour away from me, but had a fair few kms (140 thou) and had busted fairings a bad blue paint job, and a badly ripped seat. It was a runner (good) but had been neglected and left in a shed for a while. The price sounded a bit high for what it was too.
I then spotted another K100RS about 3 hours away. This was a 1 owner bike with 50 thou kms. After talking with the owner he seemed a dedicated BMW fan that had bought the bike new and then after 15 years of limited riding had parked the bike in the garage and left it hoping to get back to it one day. He never did. So after some discussion I bought it based on his description and a few photos by email. (Yeh its a bit of a gamble but the price was good. If it's a total disaster I'm sure I wont lose that much in the scheme of things and learn a lot about K bikes along the way). Cosmetically it sounds OK, (is the original black paint job) with a few extras. It was left with fuel in the tank that varnished over time so I am expecting the pump, lines and injectors to be the starting point on this one.

So I'll make sure to get some before pics before the clean up starts to get it back on the road.

Oh yeh...thanks to Duck and any other K bike fans that posted on ADV to provide advice to date and direct me here!

[GregRST]

AND...here is the K100RS. 1985 model, original charcoal metallic. Needs a good wash and has some surface rust and alloy corrosion but nothing too bad. A quick clean up and the bike is starting to look a lot better today even after it just arriving. The photo was taken late at night as the bike was delivered late by the courier in the dark at 10pm!
Ok first newbie question...how to get the seat off?
If it involves the latch on the side (helmet?) then it may be seized.
Also..to get to the fuel rail and injectors I expect Ill have to remove the lower fairings?
And the fuel pump is where? In the tank?
This is gonna be good!!!

[Shoganai]

Welcome Greg, glad to have you here.

Pull up a chair a stay awhile; good folks here and you'll never find a better tech site for K75's, 100's, and 1100's anywhere.
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki

[Geoff]

Welcome!
_________________
2000 R1100RT
2008 H-D Electra Glide Ultra Classic

[Ernie-NH]

Hi Greg...

Hey.... ditto on the Greetings and WELCOME to the world of "Ks".!! The bike looks great already, so it'll be interesting to see how you progress. Got a Service Manual yet ?? You'll need one, PLUS answers to every/any question right here at K11OG !!

Again.... WELCOME !!

Regards............// Ernie in NH
_________________
AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7

[SugarHillCTD]

WELCOME!

+1 to what Gwen said.

Yes- the helmet lock is also the seat lock.

You get to the throttle bodies and the injectors by removing the body panel just above the valve cover. Access the Phillips head screws by removing the black panel next to the fuel tank.

Yes, the fuel pump is in the tank. Remove the screws surrounding the filler for access.

Good luck!

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[Flying Duck]

Go away. (just kidding, I invited him here from ADV)

Yes, you'll need to remove the left fairing lower to get to the FIs. Before removing the FIs be sure to clean around their bases with a vacuum or some compressed air. Little bits of dirt/gravel can collect around the FI bases. You don't want that crap falling into the head when you pull the FIs.

Seat lock: Turn the key all of the way counterclockwise and push in. If it's stuck then pushing down on the seat above the lock might help.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[John Clauss]

Welcome aboard!
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al

[drmalacarne]

Welcome, mate!
Guilherme, from BRazil.
_________________
1994 K1100LT SE n° 0267
1998 HD Heritage Springer 95th anniversary
Yes, a Hog and a Beemer can live together!

[Ted]

Welcome aboard! These bikes don't sit terribly well but if you take a measured approach you'll be humming along in no time! You'll need to clean the fuel system and attend to the pump.

1. Drain all the fuel
2. Inspect the pump in the tank. The pump is held in with a rubber collar that can disintegrate over time if left with sour gas. If it is soft with a muddy feel you'll have to replace it as bits will come off and ruin the expensive pump.
3. Remove the injector rail and empty the gas. You might get by with just running some concentrate gas cleaner after you button things up. If not, the injectors will need to be rebuilt - not terribly expensive but make sure to buy and use the o-rings from the BMW dealer as ill-fitting ones will cause a bad lean condition.
4. Replace the crankcase breather hose. They go bad and though may look OK tiny cracks in the bends will allow in unmetered air and cause a bad lean running condition.
5. Replace the o-ring on the oil fill cap.
6. Do a complete service with engine oil and filter, fuel filter, trasmission oil, final drive oil, coolant, fork oil, and brake fluid flush. You'll need to buy a couple sets of crush washers (cheap) for the oil, trans, final drive and fork drain/fill plugs and the copper crush washer for the coolant drain. I'd strongly recommend using the BMW purple coolant but others use other stuff without problems. Fork oil can be a pain to refill, I use a "flavor injector" big syringe thing made to inject marinade into turkeys I got at williams sonoma. Also replace the air filter, check to make sure the battery is sound (probably isn't unfortunately) and the brake pad thickness.
7. Inspect the whole bike for loose fittings and cracks - pay particular attention to the center and side stand, the frame neck below the tank, and especially the exhaust header bolts for tightness and the rotors for any cracks. How old are the tires? More than 5 years and you should think about replacing (the date code should be on the side in a week/year format so 3509 would be 35th week of 2009.)
8. Shine a light into the exhaust to make sure there are no wasp or mouse nests in there (common in sitting bikes), make sure to clean out the airbox when you change the air filter.
9. Check out the tech section here, on IBMWR.org, and BMWMOA.org - lots of great adive there. Also check out:
K100 Restoration - http://www.bmwons.ca/k100/k100.htm
K100 Manual - http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=93a3ae919f67676861a19a9d

Ask a LOT of questions, there are some really brilliant folks here


BTW, does this look familiar?



Was in your fine city for a week a few years back - wish I had been on a bike!
_________________
Ted
KOG#1

[rydor]

Nice K!
Gotta say that is the HUGEST sidecar I've ever seen! Needs to be painted black like the bike tho...

[GregRST]

Hey thanks for the great welcome!!!

Lots of great info there Ted, many thanks. Yeh Canberra is still the best kept secret in terms of a smallish clean city located in the country and good for m'cycle riding and families!
I also lived in the US for 4 years and spent 2 years in MD, Wash DC and VA, and visited your area a few times. A great place to visit. I then spent 2 yrs in Michigan...brrrrrrrrrr...will never forget that!!!

Now back to the RS.

[GregRST]

AND..got the seat lock working. I don't think the bike has been washed or lubed in its life!!! Anyway...under the seat I found the first aid kit, tyre repair kit and the tool kit all in theiroriginal BMW packs!

Muffler internals look clean as new...I would guess that the after market muffler has done minimal kms. Brakes seem to work ok but will need a bleed at least. Fork seals weeping a smidgin. Fuel tank internally is a mess...the rubber collar has certainly disintegrated...I reckon it may need a new fuel pump after I clean it out..but no sign of major rust bubbles on the tank.

[Ted]

That is good to hear, when water gets in the tank it sits at the bottom and even though the tanks are aluminum they can corrode through at the seams. The collar replacement is easy though the part itself is on the pricey side. The collars turn to mud in sour gas so hopefully the pump is OK, just fight the urge to put the key in as the pump spins up when you turn the key to the start position


You might also invest in some good plastic-safe electronic contact cleaner (CRC brand here in the States makes an excellent one) and go around and inspect and clean the connections, especially the fuel pump and under-tank sender connections as well as the main Jetronic connector and relays in the relay box. Some also use a tiny amount of diaelectric grease like from a pen you'd find at Radio Shack - I do but it is a matter of debate.
_________________
Ted
KOG#1

[Stoked Steve]

Welcome Greg, this is the best forum for all things K related.

[merlin geikie]

G'day Mate

Yes this is THE place for good folks and plenty of hints, tips and very sound knowledge born of K bike experience.

You have the Finest Year bike there and there are a variety of colours available, I like em all, as long as they are black.

There are a handful of aussies and kiwis here too, in case you get lonely

I am looking and saving for my K while I ride my Son's airhead. I keep giving him my stash of bike money

I too scour for good knowledge on the Ks and have found here many good folk as a bonus.

Have a great Santa Claus holiday and go easy and precise on the K and it will reward you with many gifts and enjoyments...

All the very best to you All
Happy Festive Season and
Fun rides
Safe roads

[GregRST]

So todays effort was slowly and carefully removing the seat and then the fuel tank cap in preparation for removing the tank and the pump/filter assembly. Am pretty sure i will need to remove the sender as well after seeing the extent of the crud in there!!!!!
The tank cap internals were covered in varnish and the under side was growing stalactites of complex carbons!!
The molasses like gunk in the tank is firmly glued to the sides, but i think all the varnish build up has prevented any major rusting..see pics below.

So, any suggestions on what to soak/rinse/treat the tank with to get the varnish moving/dissolved. I dont think its goingto be easy! And I expect the pump and filter are probably cactus (the battery is shot and I do not get any sound from the pump when the ign is on..so could be pump or battery at thsi stage. I do get dash lights......just).

[merlin geikie]

Great pics Greg

We all love them pics.

Good thing you rescued this bike .

Look like it was going nowhere slowly but surely .

You have plenty of folk here on this site who have been there and done that sort of thing .

All the best and don't hesitate to ask for opinions etc .

[SugarHillCTD]

Greg,

In the past I have used Techron, full strength, to clean smaller bits.

Acetone will cut into some of that crud also- just watch it around rubber as it can be too aggressive. But it doesn't look like anything rubber is very useable.


Also- the brake fluid REALLY needs a thorough flushing. Many of us do it on an annual or every other year schedule. Ideally it should be clear- yours is probably is the color of Stout.


Good luck with the rehab.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[GregRST]

Thanks John...yes althought the brake fluid looks Ok and the brakes work i will certainly be bleeding both system out with new dot 4 fluid.
I just read that on the 2 valve bikes the fuel pump does not activate until the starter is hit...so maybe it aint toast....yet...I've got a ways to go yet before hittin that starter button!!
Will test the pump out of the tank..if it comes out in 1 piece and aint full of crud.



I did find a thread with a ref to an after market pump and fuel filter. Cant recall if it was here or on K-bikes forum. Anyone got a link or two?