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Radiator hole

 
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:57 pm    Post subject: Radiator hole Reply with quote

Things look bad. 800 mile trip to relatives in S. WI ended in a mess. Noticed right boot was wet. Then saw the coolant all over the right engine case. Temp gauge OK so kept going. Red lite came on 50 miles from home so parked it at a gas stn. Got it home on trailer friday. After lots of looking, found this:
[/img]
Is that button from the center of the fan? Did it leave the 2 small holes in the cross tube?
Fixable?
Also, how do you get the %^%$& fan wire plug connector through the grommet in the plastic shield above the air box so you can remove the fan?
Is the fan done? Spins and worked otherwise.
Not happy and wondering how bad the engine really over heated.
Need some help.
Mike
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RAL88
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Joined: 28 Apr 2004
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Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I removed my radiator to put in the 3 core I saw that mine has a button in it also with a number 3 on it. I wonder if this is put in for the fan blade to hit and make noise before it actually does damage to the radiator.
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Moondog
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same occurance happened to me and my 1996 K1100RS. The fan loosens up on the shaft and heads forward. Luckly I caught mine in time. I don't know what the button is for but it was in the same spot as yours. And when my fan moved I bought a fan assembly w/motor etc. on flea-bay to replace it. I suppose you could try two part epoxing it but that would be your call.
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
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Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick reply guys.
Kind of wondered if the blade had moved on the shaft.
Are there 2 buttons?? The one at 10 o'clock is supposed to be there, besides whatever was in the middle?

Hope FD has some parts.

Holiday monday doesn't help.

Mike
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RAL88
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For repair take it to a shop that does radiator repair. If they can see the hole they can repair it. I have had it done on my cars before.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

miKeinWIs wrote:
Thanks for the quick reply guys.
Kind of wondered if the blade had moved on the shaft.
Are there 2 buttons?? The one at 10 o'clock is supposed to be there, besides whatever was in the middle?

Hope FD has some parts.

Holiday monday doesn't help.

Mike


No, there are not two buttons. The spot in the center is from the fan hitting the radiator. Is there end play in the fan motor shaft? If not, something shifted enough to allow the fan motor shaft to contact the radiator.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


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Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so the button is supposed to be there?
I think the blade moved on the shaft. No other reason for it hitting the radiator.
Can it be preesed back on? Then a dab of expoxy as Moondog suggested?

thanks
Mike
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't noticed any buttons on either of mine. Question

None on the 2-core I removed from the '95 or on the 3-core I put in, or not even one on the '97 that I noticed when servicing it.

As far as fan shaft travel somewhere between 1/16th of an inch or 1/8th of an inch would be about normal(2-3mm), that's where mine are at anyway.

Not sure about the epoxy bit though. I would be tempted to try some of the permatex black gasket sealer. I does stick well and yet can be removed if needed.
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Upon further review, the fan hub must have come forward a little and ground into the cross tube leaving 2 perfect little holes. Confidence in the K was shaken but I guess just bad luck perhaps. I had just put a new air filter in last week so looked at all the hoses but no way to know this would happen.
Confused about the buttons since it looked like maybe one had come off there. The one at 11 o'clock is pretty well fixed in place for whatever reason.
Shouldn't be much to fix the radiator.
Just wondering if the fan can be pressed back on the shaft??
Or just get a new fan--after market or otherwise.
Going to make the trip to Minnesota tomorrow to dealer for all new hoses since everything is apart.
Down time is a bummer right now but may not be too bad a repair.
Mike
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miKeinWIs
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Joined: 29 Jun 2009
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Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the blade didn't take much of a rap with my fist to put back in place. Leaning towards JB weld at the front fan/shaft point to make sure it stays. Thinking about Scott's Permatex idea but leery--why would you need to move it?
Tomorrow I'll see what the rad shop says.
Thanks for all the help.
Mike
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Jim
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

miKeinWIs wrote:
Well the blade didn't take much of a rap with my fist to put back in place. Leaning towards JB weld at the front fan/shaft point to make sure it stays. Thinking about Scott's Permatex idea but leery--why would you need to move it?
Tomorrow I'll see what the rad shop says.
Thanks for all the help.
Mike


Doesn't it have a spring type clamp to hold it on? The two or three I've seen have a clamp.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


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Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wondered what was supoosed to be there. That's probly what came off allowing the blade to move. Couldn't see anything on the parts page.

Certainly got a horrendous amount of bugs and dirt out of the radiator fins. Guess it only stands to reason since there isn't anything to stop stuff going in there.

Hope to make the 100 mile trip to dealer today for new hoses and thermostat as long as I'm in there.

Coulda been worse. Coulda happened in the middle of nowhere.

Mike
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

miKeinWIs wrote:
Coulda happened in the middle of nowhere.

Mike


It did. You're in Wisconsin.
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miKeinWIs
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:32 am    Post subject: Update and Question Reply with quote

Radiator fixed for $25. Reinstalled (what fun) and seems to be OK so far. New filler cap on the way but old one is working (coolant flows to/from reservoir). 49c o-ring replaced the original lost in the caos.

Something else:
Found "air accumulator" for the tank vents listed for RS. LT shows on schematic but doesn't list the part. Question is:
Which hose hooks up? Appears to be the non-valved one. Do you cap off the unused one??

Thanks
Mike
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Ted
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The air accumulator is a little plastic cup that clips to the frame under the right rear of the tank, and takes fuel overflow (from filling the tank too full) from around the tank cap. The cup has a straight tube coming from the bottom of the cup routed to behind the right footpeg.

I know this is on the K75 but thought the K11's did away with it?

Interesting side note - on my first ever long motorcycle trip back in 1996 on my '88 K75S I filled up at a gas station at the base of the Spaulding Highway in New Hampshire. The station was full-service only and I had the flapper-less bike on the centerstand and had gone in to buy a map and let the attendant fill the bike. Unbeknownst to me he had filled it all the way to the very top.

As I was going up the onramp about 100 yards from the station I happened to look down to see a massive wall of flames pouring out the side of the bike. I pulled over and grabbed a water bottle and put them out. A Harley guy stopped and helped me figure out the cup was missing, then helped me siphon off a gallon or so of fuel then made my way to Midcoast BMW near Portland Maine and had them install the cup (aka air accumulator) and tube that some idiot prior owner had removed. Fortunately there was no damage other than a singed Stich leg!

Because of the missing cup incident I decided to go to Nova Scotia instead of the mountains of NH and VT, and am ever so glad I did as it turned out to be an epic trip.
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miKeinWIs
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ted.
So the hoses that normally go there aren't used?
i'm sure one goes to the footpeg but haven't been able to trace which one.

Mike
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Moondog
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 1996 K1100RS didn't have a cup when I bought it in 2005. The overflow tube ran to the back of the bike way past the engine, which is a good thing. Ted you are a wealth of knowledge. I always thought the hole on the filler neck was a water drain when it rained and rain got around filler cap.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 8:30 pm    Post subject: tank vents, air accumulator, and hoses Reply with quote

The rain drain - the hole on the left side of the fill assembly - goes through the tank - it is one of the nipples on the bottom of the tank. The other nipple is the fuel tank vent. Originally, the fuel tank vent went right to the engine with a check valve in the hose (CA emissions).

Once the air accumulator is installed, there is only one hose needed - that hose usually runs down behind the foot peg plate.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
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Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jim, that's what I needed.
Was'nt sure which was which. So, the valved one is superfluous since the hose to the crank case is cut/plugged.

Mike
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

miKeinWIs wrote:
Thanks Jim, that's what I needed.
Was'nt sure which was which. So, the valved one is superfluous since the hose to the crank case is cut/plugged.

Mike


Right. I took the hose off and put one of those little rubber caps on the nipple down on the block.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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