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HOPE Change...YES it can be done final / rear drive

 
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hockeyshifter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 1:55 am    Post subject: HOPE Change...YES it can be done final / rear drive Reply with quote

After a consultation with the AirCraft Mx at work i have chosen to go it alone..
i have changed the final / rear drive oil seal on a 1993 Rs. with a 39k on the odo.
I was able to leave the rest of the final /rear drive on the Paralevel assembly. in both the BMW shop and Clymer manuals it was not clear if this could be done.
Now before i get into the tricks and hints i will state for the record that i assume no RESPONSIBILTY for YOUR mistakes if you attempt this repair on your own. i just want to share what i learned and how i preformed the repair.

i will not be doing a step by step just a short cliff note version. read the shop manual for the finer points.

prep your work area with the needed supplies and tools.. get it set and ready to work on


you have to keep the bike stable.
once the wheel is off and the caliper supported drain out the gear oil. Now you can unscrew and knock off the housing with a dead blow hammer, once ajar use your hands to get it the rest of the way off. you do not have to take off the speed sensor
Mark the housing see pic.


now support the housing and heat the housing

...

DO NOT HAMMER OUT THE ASSEMBLY this will damage the taper bearing

DO NOT HAMMER OUT THE ASSEMBLY this will damage the taper bearing

Once the housing has been heated up the ring gear assembly will drop out. once it does place the assembly in a freezer for at least 30 min.

clean off all the crud and corrosion from the ring drive and the housing. the cleaner the better. the goal it to stop it before it starts and kill in it tracks when it's found.

now for the goop.. grease. this will be were your prep work pays off.
i used an OEM tube of MoS2 / cv joint grease from VW. the reason is two fold Mos2 will not deteriorate under normal conditions. solvent must be used to remove it. also a barrier from the elements. we have a convergance of metals in this assembly steel and aluminium which will cause galvanic corrosion.

coat the outer seal and the housing with a layer of grease and insert the seal if the housing is still warm the seal should just need hand strenght to push it in.. get it flush with the outter portion of the housing. if not use a drift.. ( note a PVC coupler not a pipe. might work here put i did not need one)

now grease the inner section of the seal and the race section of the housing. do not forget to check and install the shimm/ large thin washer into the bottom of the race.
now if you are ready check to see if the housing is still very warm to the touch if not heat it up and get the ring assembly ready.


if you did everything right the very cold ring assembly will slide right in. hold it together and filp it to check for any problems. flip it back and set it down to let reach room temp.
at this point clean the O-ring portion of any corrosion then you can coat the outer section of the housing with more grease to seal and aid in reassembly. put a small bead around the O-ring and the groove. Once cooled reinstall into the bike.
Now i did coat all the parts that might be exposed to the elements and parts that contact different metals.
i did not post pictures of the old vers new seal.. i could not find were the seal failed. my guess is that BMW upgraded the seal style to fit more bikes. My belief is that age and elements got to the rubber. Once a certian oil temp was reached it worked it's way out. the leak did not happen at nite or during steady travel but once in stop and go; drip drip drip all over the rotor..

Thanks to all that responded to my postes and to the Super MOD TED..
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fix the problem not the blame ; fix what is messed up ; NO one is to blame.


Last edited by hockeyshifter on Fri May 21, 2010 3:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 954
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the great write-up! Future searchers would find it more easily if you made the "Subject" more specific.
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Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
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hockeyshifter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

will do ..
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Klinker
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 876
Location: SD I-90

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:15 am    Post subject: Re: HOPE Change...YES it can be done final / rear drive Reply with quote

hockeyshifter wrote:
now for the goop.. grease. i used an OEM tube of MoS2 / cv joint grease from VW. the reason is two fold Mos2 will not deteriorate under normal conditions. solvent must be used to remove it...

This is the only part that gives me pause. The local BMW service manager said they just use gear lube. Has anyone else replaced this seal? What was used and what have your results been?
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tlp
1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
- Page Griffin
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hockeyshifter, you TOTALLY RAWK!!!

:bow
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2928
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Move to the Stickies forum.


Good work, job well done HS.
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Ride safe.


1997 K1100LT 0302488
1995 K1100LT 0302044
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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gpzoduibh
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Location: Co. Meath Ireland

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a copy and paste from the Scorpion owners web site it may be simpler than you think ?

Re: [GrinnallScorpion] Final Drive Leak


Hi David,

Replacing this seal is easy. Simply remove the rear hub adapter and dig the seal out with a rounded screw driver making sure not to damage the outer or inner diameters. the knock a new one into the housing using a block of wood. Fit new oil.

Cheers,
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: David
To: GrinnallScorpion@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 11:02 PM
Subject: [GrinnallScorpion] Final Drive Leak



Hi All,

Time for me to ask for some advice. After a week of uneventful driving to work, I discovered a good size drip from the final drive housing. Initially I thought it was dripping from the drain plug, but after wheel removal and investigation, it is definately coming from the seal around the output shaft. It is a significant leak: 2 tablespoons in an afternoon of just sitting in the garage.

I did not note any wiggling of the tire and wheel assembly prior to removal. I screwed in two of the hub spacer bolts and can not feel any loosness of the bearing just by grasping the bolts. Oil appears clean, although I have not yet drained the unit.

So what next ? Any ideas on trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated. Can the seal be replaced from the outside or do I have to open the housing ? Does anyone overhaul the final drive, or is a replacement the only solution ?

1994 / K1100
S/N:0015

Best Regards,

David
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
1962 BSA C15 trials (project)
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1983 Yamaha TT600
1972 Sanglas 400 T
19?? Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
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hockeyshifter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klinker... i was going to use gear lube.. but on the advise of the Aircraft Mx. grease sticks better... gear oil will wash away over time
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Klinker
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 876
Location: SD I-90

PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hockeyshifter wrote:
Klinker... i was going to use gear lube.. but on the advise of the Aircraft Mx. grease sticks better... gear oil will wash away over time

After further investigation, the gear lube recommended by the service manager is only to be applied to the outside of the seal - inside should be fitted dry. Clymers sez same.

IF one were to use a lube, I suppose it should be a type that also serves as an adhesive. I remain hesitant. I'm sure the aircraft mech knows his stuff, but I'm leary of applying anything that requires solvent for removal.
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tlp
1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
- Page Griffin
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Tourdog7



Joined: 25 Oct 2006
Posts: 20
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a lot of good info being offered here but not all of it is correct imo.

When in doubt about using a lubricant on the FD seal install, using what is called for in the FD would be logical...................... at least you know it is compatible and won't chemically attack ie destroy the new seal! Most cases these seals are put in place axially and you stop when the correct depth is reached for the radial movement or operational position. A finger dipped in FD gear lube would suffice on any of these surfaces to ease the "push in place". Similar seals are put in dry even.

The last one (crown bearing & seal) I did is on my 99 K1200LT a couple years ago (Nearly exactly the same FD). It was done with just a finger tip of 80-90W gear lube. Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.
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KLR650
K1100LT w/ECC
K1200LT w/ SC

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