K11 Owners Group

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject: Clutch Plate Life?

My RS is pushing 50k. I plan to go over the whole critter soon including a spline lube. I've got a next to new clutch plate sitting around. (Two actually. Very Happy

) I'm considering swapping in a clutch plate while I've got it cracked open for a spline lube. And of course a new O-ring too.

Just curious what life other RS owners have gotten out of their clutch plates. Since I've also got an LT I'm interested in data points for those as well.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Phil Marvin · Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject:

Hi, Drake,
My '96 K1100LT had 122k on it when I sold it. The last I heard, it now has close to 150k and may be due for a clutch. I never replaced the clutch while I had it.
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

6899 · Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 10:20 pm Post subject:

Duck,

My 1996 K1100Lt with orig clutch at 73K was still good -dont know how much life it had left but the pressure plates will OK. Had the rear main oil leak..

Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975

Ernie-NH · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:26 am Post subject:

Good morning Duck..!!

Hey... Phil had a positive experience eh? My "K1100LT" w/63k is in the shop now having the leaking Rear Main Seal replaced and the Clutch Plate/ O-ring done. I dont think it was imperative BUT I wanted to start off fresh with no worries at that end of the transmission. IF I had the tools I would have done the job myself and examined the parts removed, but as it is I dont yet have the tools but will start to build a "K" specific tooling library. Is it really necessary to have everything BMW and Clymer says you need for specialty tooling , OR can that work be done with improvised std. tooling ??

Good luck with the job......// Ernie-NH
_________________
AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:35 am Post subject:

Ernie,

Did mine last summer after a clutch-slipping ride with Jim.

Nothing special is needed just (imho) an orderly work sequence and in some places tags to indicate what goes back where. I just worked from the back and went forward.

The biggest diff is your ABS II. A little more complicated (?)

Mr Duck will give more details......
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

whyoldbill · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 4:29 pm Post subject:

Duck,
I just replaced my clutch disc when I had mine apart for the O Ring replacement (47,700 miles). I was hoping to just clean it with Brake Parts cleaner, but I noticed the tops of several rivets were starting to get scuffed so I opted to replace the disc.
Had I done the work when the clutch first began slipping, I may have been able to salvage the disc.
If you've got a new clutch disc lying around, it's a no-brainer in my book... that tear down is not my idea of fun.
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 5:05 pm Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject:

FD,

Risking life and limb- well actually just some oil/friction material slop on my hands- I measured the thickness of the replaced friction plate.

I did the replacement at about 44,000 miles and the old disc measures 5.1mm thick. Do you know the minimum allowable thickness before BMW recommends replacement?

I see that whyoldbill was at his rivets at 47k. Looking at my old plate I think that without a leak I could have gone double what I did. But the rider's right wrist must have a lot do do with wear. I do not slip the clutch very much.

I'd bet that your RS is good to go for quite a while before you need a new friction plate.

Good luck,
John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 8:22 pm Post subject:

Min spec in 4.5mm.

I may check it anyhow, do the O-ring and put the thickest one I have in there. I plan to be buried with that bike (hopefully not because of it though.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject:

Good idea on the O-ring. Your RS is now the age when mine ('93) needed replacement a year ago. And just about the same mileage.

That (formerly rubber) O-ring will probably be nearly petrified like mine was. To remove it I had to cut it and then it cracked into two pieces.

Doing the O-ring only will probably save the friction plate.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:03 pm Post subject:

Oh yeah- the rest of the replaced parts

_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:51 pm Post subject:

I don't understand how the O-ring contaminates the clutch plate. OK, I do but I don't. I bought a bike with a leaky O-ring in LA and put 2,000+ miles on it and the oil never made it to the friction plate. Made it to the weep hole though. (The seller told me about it ahead of time so it was not a surprise.)

I think you can clean up the friction plate with brake cleaner and re-use it.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

6899 · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 5:15 am Post subject:

Riders, you can have a contaminated clutch via bad O-Ring or leaking rear engine seal. My guess is with the age of the rubber components, when either rear main seal or O-ring start to fail, the other seal is going bad also.

When you get a leak that continues from under the tranny, its time to fix the O ring and since "your already there" may as well replace the Engine Seal.

The tools I needed to do my 1996 K1100 that I did not have was a 12MM allen wrench, handmade tool to install main engine seal with .020" clearance, and MItyVac to bleed brakes.

Unless you are a genius, you will have to remove the ABSII and that causes all kinds of brake bleeding problems. I had to disconnect the ABSII and mount it to the top frame mount to be able to pull the tranny.(I was NOT going to pull the ABS with metal brake lines still attached). My problems were compounded by the fact that I also disconnected the rear brake pedal lines to remove the right footpeg plate. In a nutshell, my entire rear brake lines were now drained and that made it a real pain to bleed..

I finally realized after 2 wks (someone from K11OG mentioned this trick) that you had to add brake fluid to the ABS (remove ABS Bleeder valves), use the MityVac to suck out the air, refilling the ABS and rear master reservior.

Good luck.

Hey Duck, how do you upload pics to the K11OG?

Got a lot of pics and suggestions how to R&R Clutch on a K1100LT with ABSII.

Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975

robleyd · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 5:39 am Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 5:48 am Post subject:

Never did need the 12mm wrench. Last year when I did my clutch-ectomy I kept the trans/swingarm/final drive together as a unit.

Guess the surgery was a bit easier with ABS I

_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:35 am Post subject:

John, I did the same thing with my '97 for the clutch spline lube in '07. Left the tranny/final drive connected together.

When I started on my '95 last winter I wanted to pull the drive shaft and inspect those splines and the u-joints as well. Not to mention I also wanted to replace the rubber boots.
So I totaly split the system open.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

malcolmt · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 11:21 am Post subject:

Duck,

Be very careful just swapping the friction plate with it slipping due to an O ring failure. This is what I did and 10,000km later had to change the complete unit due to uneven wear. The complete clutch transformed the bike, now the wife almost prefers the K11 to the K75 for smoothness.

Malcolm(t)
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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Flying Duck · Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:58 pm Post subject:

CheapJapCopy · Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:14 pm Post subject:

I wore clutches out on K's in no time at all, until I had to replace one. Then, I changed my riding style (No more super-fast pullaways) and am convinced that theoretically they can last forever.
_________________
1992 K1100RS - Red and gold.