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Headlight bulb

 
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:09 pm    Post subject: Headlight bulb Reply with quote

So I bought some of the Phillips Extreme H4 bulbs, fitted them to my tin top first and they made an enormous difference!! So I got another one for the K11, but when I went to put it in last night, do you think I could get the stupid connector off the back of the bulb!! Is there some sort of locking mechanism on the connector? Damned if I could shift it! Please tell me I don't have to pull the faring apart to replace the headlight bulb.... Shocked Shocked
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's nothing special about it. It slides on and off. But it's been on there and exposed to the elements for quite a few years. You might try spraying some WD-40 or whatever in there.
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
There's nothing special about it. It slides on and off. But it's been on there and exposed to the elements for quite a few years. You might try spraying some WD-40 or whatever in there.

silicone.
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should indeed just pull off, try wiggling. Must be kin tight. Once off, there is a rubber seal which has a tab to help one remove & replace (a bitch to align with the lamp connectors in the dark) To remove lamp, one squeezes together the ends of a wire spring clip (captive at other end) & swing away.
I have done this by feel in a dark pub car park, but only after having done same in a lit garage the first time.
No locking mechanism & no fairing removal, but 9" long double jointed fingers would help. IMHO easiest access is from throttle side, but then I'm left handed.
HTH
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saltcreek wrote:
Flying Duck wrote:
There's nothing special about it. It slides on and off. But it's been on there and exposed to the elements for quite a few years. You might try spraying some WD-40 or whatever in there.

silicone.


"or whatever." Very Happy

WD-40 has some penetrating properties and is non-conductive but anything similar should help. I'm not sure how well silicone would penetrate the frozen corroded contacts but it wouldn't hurt either as it's also non-conductive.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you are there you might notice that these are not the most robust looking wires and connections. When I carefully pulled the plug off the bulb the brown ground wire broke off way too easily.

Fortunately I was doing this in order to install the Eastern Beaver headlight relay. I ended up eliminating the BMW plug (and unfortunately its E.B. mate) and wired the new relays directly.

Once you do get the plug off your bulb, you might want to carefully inspect the individual spade sockets and the wires leading to them.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What he said.

Adding relayss and beefing up the wiring adds something around a whole volt getting to the headlight and will make your new bulb just that much better.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I will be adding relays eventually, in the meantime I'll keep persevering with the 9" long double jointed fingers.

I used to have a 6 volt VW beetle, if you did the 6V Halogen headlight upgrade to it and didn't add relays, the light switch actually acted like a very effective fuse but not instant, it smokes for a while then bursts into flame!

But then the currents were twice as high in a 6V system!

Thanks for that.
.
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K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3128
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
Yes I will be adding relays eventually,


If your putting in a higher wattage bulb without any switching relay's of any kind at the same time you are asking for a burned out high/low headlamp switch.
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the same wattage ie 55/60 so no panic on that.

Thanks.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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