K11 Owners Group

[Flying Duck]

[Stoked Steve]

Just drill holes in the fairing?? That's blasphemy! I won't violate my baby that way!

But seriously, then just use a nut with a lock washer and bolt and (maybe a another flat washer)?
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[Flying Duck]

[RAL88]

When I mounted my lights and drilled into the fairing I used rubber bushings between the light and the fairing to dampen some of the vibration.
_________________
Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R

[getlunch]

Here are some pictures of the coupling nuts that I'm using to mount the XSL on the reflector bolt. There is a short spacer between the tangs of the light which will get painted gloss black to match the light.

60mm combo:


100mm combo with the possibility of 80mm or 90mm as well:


60mm combo on reflector bolt:


60mm combo with light and a piece of 1/2" stainless tubing painted out black to hide hardware.(actually for this photo I used a piece of shrink tube since the stainless tubing was left at home, doh!):

and


100mm tig welded combo with the same fake stainless tubing over hardware. It may look like it is hanging down at a slight angle, it's not, it's the camera angle:

and


Both from about eight feet:


For now I will be using the 60mm combo, reusing the cap nut that originally came off the reflector bolt to tighten the light in place. This seems to be plenty solid and doesn't require dropping the front wheel, easy enough just one less step.

If any of you would like the nut/stud/coupler combo in stainless and spacers cut, plus two one foot lengths of shrink tube to cover the wires coming out of the lights up to the fender cover it will add about $9.00. I am happy to add that into the box before I seal them up.

PM me and I will check the messages around 3pm PST before I head off to the post office. If you do go with the hardware, lights will get mailed on Friday.
_________________
Rand
'92 K100RS

[getlunch]

skdonlan,
I'll be making a bracket to bolt into the existing holes under the fairing for my second set of lights this weekend. The plan is to keep it simple but allow some options for mounting lights without having to drill holes in the fairing and also adjustments in the placement of the lights with respect to the distance from the center line of the headlight.
If I get one made that I like it will be easy enough to make more and only for the cost of the materials.(unless a thousand brick owners suddenly chime in saying I want one, then I start a little side business.) I will post a few pictures Sunday or Monday.
_________________
Rand
'92 K100RS

[Stoked Steve]

In anticipation of these lights arriving soon, I'm trying to plot my wiring strategy.

I have a BMW three way switch (thanks Jim!) that I am planning on using to operate two sets of catz light, one amber for DRL's and one white/gold for night time driving lights. I am assuming I can hook it up so that one position on the switch (up) will operate one set of light's and the middle position will be off and the other position (down) will operate the other set of lights (but not both at the same time).

Based on the wiring diagram below, how would I hook two sets of lights up to the three-way switch which has an orange wire on one end, a green wire in the middle and a black wire on the other end?

I understand hooking the relay(s) ground to a ground and the red to the power (like I did the head light relay), I'm just not sure about the white wires from the relays to the switch (x2).





Any suggestions are appreciated.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[Flying Duck]

I have my CATZ ambers tied into my low beam and my FF50 driving lights hooked into my high beam. The down position makes it so my CATZ orange lights only go on when the low beam is active. The up position makes it so my driving lights only go on with the high beam.

For day riding and city night driving, I keep the switch in the down position. When I'm out in the country night riding I have the switch in the up position.

I did this before I swapped in the CATZ for the PIAA but it's the same now: Blue is the driving lights, yellow is that CATZ:



Thie middle wire on your switch is grounded, the orange wire goes to the fog light realy and the other wire goes to the driving light relay.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Stoked Steve]

Thanks Duck, I'd like to keep these independent from the headlight position, so your last line there answers my question.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[Flying Duck]

[Flying Duck]

One other thing to consider: Since my CATZ ambers are hooked into the low beam, that means that the load shedding relay turns them off automatically while I'm starting the bike. If you're going to run fog or driving lights independently of the headlight then I'd recommend finding a 12V switched power source to trigger the relay that is turned off by the load shedding relay when starting the bike.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Stoked Steve]

Good poimts Duck, I'll keep them in mind.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[RAL88]

Here is how I hooked up my Euro switch. It uses the left most position on the switch to activate the driving light. It is already hooked up to the load shedding relay so that is not a problem and you can turn on the driving lights either with the high beams on or off.



This is a re-draw of the Euro Switch out of the factory Electrical Ciruit Diagrams manual for the '95 K1100.
The following allows you to use the Euro switch (part number 61312305232) to control both your standard illumination and any accessory driving lights.
You could get away with not using the relay that came with your driving lights IF you do not exceed the amperage rating of the headlight switch. I opted to use the relay to keep the strain on the switch down.
When this mod is complete the "off" position will be off for all lights, the original "parking" light position will control the parking and headlight and the normal "headlight" position will control the driving lights.
Basically, when you replace the US switch with the Euro version, there is a connector under the tank for the switch.
You cut the white/yellow wire on the female connector side about 1" from the connector.
You then strip a small area of gray/blue wire and solder the harness end of the white/yellow to the bare spot on the gray/blue wire.
You then take the wire coming from the energize terminal of the relay (the one that would go to the driving light switch and solder it to the connector side white/yellow wire. I STRONGLY recommend that you cover this wire with heat shrink tubing and wrap the gray/blue wire with vinyl electrical tape.
Test before re-assembling.
As a side note, I mounted the driving light relay and my aux fuel pump relay on the tab that is behind the windshield where a couple of other relays are mounted.
_________________
Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R

[owrstrich]

[Stoked Steve]

Johnny wrote:

[owrstrich]

[Flying Duck]

Aside from the load shed relay thing, one of the reasons I hooked my amberz into the low beam is that if I flash my high beams during the day then it makes the CATZ flash off and I figure that will make me more noticeable.

Some times I use a BMW relay that has 2 87 terminals, sometimes I use the CATZ relay.

CATZ relay wiring:

The blue wires are the positive leads to the lights.(87 in my diagram)
The red wire in the power in. (30 in my diagram)
The black wire is the one you want to run to the switch (85 in my diagram)
The white runs to either switched power or your high or low beam wire depending upon which set of lights and how you want things configured (86 on my diagram)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Scott_Anderson]

Steve, yes the included relays use the white wire for the relay control signal. That's the one that connect to the high/low circuit. Are you also going to use the included lighted switches?
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Roy S.]

[Stoked Steve]

Scott wrote: