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Winter project: Getting the fan to kick in earlier

 
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:54 pm    Post subject: Winter project: Getting the fan to kick in earlier Reply with quote

This winter I plan to tear down the RS a bit. After the spline lube I'm going to do some 'sperimetin' with the cooling system.

I've got three things to try.

1) I have a 3 core radiator I scored cheap on eBay that someone had already installed a thermoswitch in. It looks something like this and is installed near where the coolant from the head comes in:



Actually, I'm not 100% sure it's a thermoswitch. The one I have doesn't have any numbers on it so it could just be a sensor for all I know. We'll see....


2) I've built one of these and need to test it:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Electronic-Radiator-Fan-Switch/A_2477/article.html


3) Lastly, I just found this thermoswitch on eBay that's only $24 shipped. I thing this thing could be the ticket since it's easy to install and cheap to boot. I found several references to it in car forums where guys have had good luck with it installing aftermarket fans in the cars.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370261292681&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be interesting to see how that goes. I'd like mine to turn on a little earlier.
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems a shame you can't just adjust the sensor that's already telling the fan to come on.
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Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saltcreek wrote:
Seems a shame you can't just adjust the sensor that's already telling the fan to come on.


It's a bit more complicated then that. The temp sensor on the head tells the Motronic what temp things are running at and based on that the Motronic manages the fuel system and also kicks on the fan relay.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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max
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 309
Location: NZ

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duck

Can I also suggest trying something like these:

http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=to220+thermoswitch&x=0&y=0



About $6US? RS Components are worldwide, or you can search for AirPax at someone like Mouser or DigiKey? NO or NC contacts, temp like 70 / 80 / 90 / 100degC

They're waterproof, gold contacts and can take up to 160degC long term, and do about 38000 cycles of 1A @48v... I know this won't switch the full fan directly, so you'd have to use a relay - but sticking the tab under the mounting screw of something direct on the head/block is a lot easier than tapping & waterproofing a sensor into the coolant stream, and then having to waterproof the switch cage too.

(I'm going to use mine - 90degC - to switch the fan-via-ballast here, that's only just over 1amp anyway, so get no fan until 90deg (on head), ~40% continuously then and for spikes the main full-speed still will kick in.)

Just might be easier, anyway


Max
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's interesting. On one of the car forums I was surfingl I saw a kit that uses something similar - but was adjustable. But that was $115 so I ruled it out.

I actually built two of the kits (#2) above. I bench tested them yesterday and couldn't get either to work. I'm pretty sure I assembled them correctly because I've done kit stuff before and do have a clue what I'm doing.

Besides the circuit board for the kit is large so right now I'm leaning towards the #3 $24 thermoswitch because it's adjustable. That will enable me to fine tune when the fan kicks in. I bought one from Summit on eBay yesterday to experiment with.

The probe doesn't actually penetrate the radiator, it's inserted between the radiator fins. I'll probably put the control unit under the tank and am not concerned about waterproofing it. I looked at the manufacturer specs for it and it has a 15A capacity which is more than enough for the fan.

But when I get to this, I'll test all 3 of the methods I mentioned above and report back.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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hockeyshifter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 177
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These bike are set up like a car 325i .. just smaller. the "switch on the block " is really only use to manage fuel mix during warm up once the o2 sensor gets it correct reading the mix leans out. once at optimal temp the sensor is really only for the fan.

what needs to happen is a seperate switch in the radiator it self... that is paced in front of the block sensor circut. remember electricty looks for the shortest path. also make sure you put in a relay that is connected to the switch other wise the fan will kick on with out the key in. by placing the seperate fan switch seperate form the block sensor is that you can control it with a switch or with a resistor ( ie dial in the fan speed)
also having this set up will protect the delicate circut boards and programing in the ecu itself . if you get a short you might cause more damage to high cost components than damaging to a simple circut switch ...
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My plan is to have the switch trigger a micro relay that grounds the existing fan relay. That relay is switched power already and I won't need to add another fuse.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
My plan is to have the switch trigger a micro relay that grounds the existing fan relay. That relay is switched power already and I won't need to add another fuse.


Well, I got the $24 adjustable fan switch in the mail the other day. I did some bench testing of it yesterday (the thermoswitch, a pan of water on the stove and a digital cooking thermometer) and it looks as though adding a relay won't be necessary.

It doesn't need to be powered or anything so I can just run a ground to it and have it tigger the OEM fan relay by having it ground the blue/yellow wire. The adjustability is pretty good to so it looks like I'll be able to dial it in pretty close to whatever I think the best temp is for the fan to kick in. And it doesn't "violate" the intergrity of the radiator as it mounts externally.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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owrstrich
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 2566
Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

arent you in the sand box... what was it 117 there yesterday... good place for fan switch experimentation...

j o
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I arrive in the "sand box" on Wednesday evening. Very Happy
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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owrstrich
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 2566
Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r o d g e r t h a t...

well then... i may pull out the smoker and fill it full of pig ares... or prime ribbs... or both...


j o
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

owrstrich wrote:
r o d g e r t h a t...

well then... i may pull out the smoker and fill it full of pig ares... or prime ribbs... or both...


j o


Mmmmmm..... yummy! Very Happy
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duck,

What 3 core radiator did you get? A K100? Custom recored K1100?

Just curious. A 3 core rad will cure most problems.

Thx

Bagram Red
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1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975
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