K11 Owners Group

Saltcreek · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:23 pm Post subject: Sticky brake lever

I'm having a problem with my brake lever not returning enough to open the brake light switch. This is complicated by the switch apparently not being original.

1. Is this a sign of imminent master cylinder service needed? No leaks and brakes work fine.

2. Is there a way to remove the lever and lubricate the pivot witout removing the MC?

3. If I have to remove the MC do you really have to remove the grip and risk screwing up the heated grips?
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:38 pm Post subject:

1 - Not necessarily.

2 - Mine was sticking when I bought my RS. Pulled the pivot and lubed it. Then didn't tighten it as much when I put it back in and things have gone simmingly for 14k miles since.

3 - NA
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Saltcreek · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:06 pm Post subject:

2. I can't figure out how to pull the pivot from the parts fiche.

3, Does NA mean nah or is it an abbreviation? I don't get half of those abbreviations.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:24 pm Post subject:

It's kind of tricky.

NA- Not applicable.

I kind of liked mine that way. Worked great as a parking brake on hilly stop lights in San Francisco. Very Happy

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Stoked Steve · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:45 pm Post subject:

The pivot pin has a hex head on it that you access from underneath the M/C assembly. Back it out as far as you can, then you might have to gently grab it with some needle nose pliers to remove it the rest of the way. You can remove it and the handle with out removing the piston assembly, althought the plunger pin will come out with the handle. Clean it well and the area where the handle rides back and forth, use some light grease on the plastic sleeve and re-assemble.

While you're at it, remove the rubber boot and see if you have any leakage, that might also be causing the handle to stick, and if there is brake fluid there, a rebuild is order.

I recently had to rebuild my M/C due to some leakage and the same problem you describe with the lever not returning enough to cut off the brake light switch. It wasn't that hard and all is silky smooth now.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:55 pm Post subject:

I found that putting some angular pressure on the Allen wrench so it stays in the head will allow you to pull it out. Like I said, a bit tricky.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Saltcreek · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:45 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject:

Before you run off and buy a rebuild kit I'd recommend taking things apart and checking the cylinder bore for pitting. If the cylinder wall is pitted then a rebuild kit won't fix it.

One thing that worked for me on my K100RS4V on a VERY leaky master cylinder was taking the piston out, cleaning the bore with 0000 grade steel wool, cleaning the seals with a paper towel and reassembling. There was just crap in there and that cured the leak.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:25 pm Post subject: MC rebuild

I'm not arguing with the Drake.
I had to rebuild my front MC when I over stroked the handle bleeding the brakes. The Bore was lightly pitted and not pretty. This scored the chit out of the seal on the piston
I started the dressing with a rolled up piece of 130 sand paper and working all the way up to 0000 steel wool till it was smooth as glass as FAR down the bore as I could get it. Used the new MC from Beemer boneyard and it's NEVER felt better.
Took me two hours or more, most of that dressing the bore.
You can do it! Then i=use a GOOD sealent to hold that crappy boot to the front of the MC and keep wahter & dirt out. Th eseal around the piston is plenty tight.
Just my .02 and I learned it all here!
_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

Saltcreek · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:41 pm Post subject:

Numero Uno - Whatever you do try to keep brake fluid away from the paint job. Put a towel under the master cylinder while you're playing with things.

If it spills on the paint it's not that big of a deal though as long as you get if off of the paint right away.

Take the top cover off and mop up the reservoir with paper towels. Then I'd undo the banjo bolt and let it drain.

I did mine off-bike but I think you might be able to do it on-bike.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:46 pm Post subject: Re: MC rebuild

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:48 pm Post subject: MC rebuild

I did mine on the bike, di dnot loosten the banjo bolt.
Used a couple of BOG towels draped across the tank and right sid eof fairing. Used miti vac & drained most of the MC, thne leaned it with cotton swap and alchohol.
Loosen the mounting & turn back to get a good view in there, and go to work.
BUT!!! Mine is an RS, might be harder to see in there with the larger LT fairing, but give her a try.
_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

Jim · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:50 pm Post subject: MC

there's a very. very high end antique and newer auto restoration shop a couple hours from here that bores out brake cylinders and installs brass inserts. When I say high end, think of a year and a half and $100,000 plus for a restoration. They'll do brake work for anyone, though. I've been wondering if this is something that could be done with our master cylinders.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Saltcreek · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:55 pm Post subject:

How does the sealing sleeve remove? The manual just says to carefully detach it.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Stoked Steve · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:56 pm Post subject:

I did the Beemer Boneyard route, it was $42.50 plus shiping and included the new rubber boot (crucial).

My cylinder was smooth, so I might have been able to get away with a proper cleaning and smoothing 'o the bore with the steel wool. My previous pistons' rubber flanges looked good, but I had already ordered the kit, so I figured "in for a penny, in for a pound" or how ever that English saying goes....

Read up on my saga here...

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6439

The rebuild does NOT require removing the whole assembly from the handle bar. It was actually much easier than I feared. Bleeding the lines afterward was the worst part, that took the longest.

Just protect the paint well and take your time. The mechanics part is not that difficult. Please read my part about what I believe to be a serious misprint in the manual about tightening the stop screw up a half turn past tight, I think they meant the pivot bolt/pin, not the stop screw, I believe just tight is good enough for that screw (with loctite).

One other note, the Beemer Boneyard kit does not come with a new spring, but my old spring seemed to still have enough spring left in it for the job. I was a bit underwhlemed with the kits contents for $45, but whatever...

I consider myself a "B" mechanic on a good day, and this job was well within my abiliites. And now I have super tight brakes, smooth handle operation, proper brake light cut off and all is well, show no fear!
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

Stoked Steve · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:02 pm Post subject:

Damn, in the half hour it took me to edit my post, several others posted, too much of a good thing! (and a few too many screwdrivers of the liquid variety!)

The "sealing sleeve" is just the rubber boot, just pull it off, like a used condom.

You have to remove the stop screw to allow the piston to "eject". Mine was a little sticky, so I had to rotate it a few times to get it free (after removing the stop screw!).
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

Saltcreek · Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:31 pm Post subject:

Saltcreek · Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:40 am Post subject:

Got the piston out and both bore and piston look fine. Will probably try a little polishing and reassemble to see if I can get a good enough result to ride on until new piston arrives.

I want to finish removing the cylinder to do a better job but I'm hung up on removing the grip apparently because of the heaterwire. Is there a disconnect or is it just not worth messing with?
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Saltcreek · Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:10 pm Post subject:

Gave up on removing the cylinder and worked on it in place. I now need to bleed the brakes and change out the fluid while I'm at it.

I'm suspicious of the procedure both in the .pdf manual and the Clymer. The .pdf has you removing the brake pads and the Clymer seems to ignore the ABS modulator. I looked but did not find a good thread on bleeding brakes. I have a brake bleeder available.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium