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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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 Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:29 pm Post subject: Front wheel bearing |
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It looks like I've got about 40K on the front wheel bearing. Going to have the wheels off pretty soon and was wondering if I should replace it. I think it call for replacement at 25K. Or should I wait until I'm 200 miles from home...
Do I need both 3 and 4? Anything else?
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, Scott,
I bought my first K1100LT in 1998 with 14299 miles on it. I sold it in 1997 with 122k miles on it. It is still going strong with over 140k miles on it. The wheel bearings have never been changed. I have 49k on the K75RT and 37k on the K75. The wheel bearings have never been changed. I have had 7 airheads. I never changed a front wheel bearing in any of them. Were it me, I would stick my finger into the axle hole and feel the bearings. If they are smooth, I wouldn't worry. If they are binding in the slightest, then I would change them. I think they will not be binding.
Ride Safe,
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Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP |
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Phil, I saw the PO changed them out at almost 30K and the bike has 70K now so I was just wondering.
What about steering head bearings? Same deal?
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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Don't change the wheel bearings unless you absolutely have to. They can be real swines to remove due to the spacer tube in the middle preventing the use of a drift from the other side.
I tried heat and hammers but ended up cutting mine out with a mini-grinder fitted with 22mm cutting discs (the larger ones won't fit inside the inner hole of the bearings)
I also discovered that the original bearings had been fited in the wrong sides from new - i.e the wider one was on the right instead of the left, and vice-versa. I can't for the life of me see why a narrower one is used on one side as there's a recess cut out on both sides for the wider one.
Fitting is quite easy - just pop them in the freezer for an hour or so and fetch each one out just before you fit it, then tap it in immediately before it starts to warm up.
Don't buy from a BMW parts dealer as the cost will be extortionate. Go to a specialist bearing dealer (Yellow pages). If memory serves me well they're 25x49x12 and 25x49x16 'sealed' type ball races, but please check first.
Seeing as there's ample room on both sides for the larger bearing, I ended up using 2 x the 25x49x16 bearings instead of one of each. Strangely enough the forks now don't 'pull in' when I tighten the axle bolt, which they used to do before. Surely that's a good thing, isn't it?
I've now done almost 2000 miles since fitting them and all seems well.
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Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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I discussed this with our local highly respected ex-BMW, now indy, wrench and he said it's rare for them to go so I'd wait until they fail.(The WA State Patrol takes their bikes to him over the local dealer if that tells you anything.) And from my experience with cars they go gradually so it won't be a stranding event.
Steering head bearing should be adjusted every 10k or so IMO. It's pretty easy. Jack up the front, loosen the locking bolt with a big crescent wrench, tighten the knurked nut until there's a wee bit of friction, back it off just a tad and then lock them down again.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, I'll look at them when I have the wheel off and probably everything will be copasetic. 
By the way, I was remembering wrong. Clymers has no mileage replacement recommends on wheel bearings, it's steering head bearings that they say should be replaced at 25K. Thoughts?
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:56 pm Post subject: |
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Regarding the K unless you are talking about a spline lube I would not replace anything but bobbins until they become symptomatic.
ESPECIALLY head bearings.
At 90k my head bearings are a tiny bit notched, not enough to warrant a replace.....front wheel bearings are as new.
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Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:51 am Post subject: |
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| Off the grid wrote: | | ...my head bearings are a tiny bit notched, not enough to warrant a replace.... |
Our problem is that here in the UK, any trace of a notch at all will cause the bike to fail it's compulsory yearly fitness test, or M.O.T.
A head bearing swap is daunting, but with a proper bearing puller (our Club has a tool hire section) it took me about three hours to do mine.
Again, I used a mini grinder to cut off the old bearings from the stem (as opposed to having to use a press as suggested), and fitting the new ones was a piece of cake, with a heat gun for the inner races and a freezer for the outer casings.
The worst thing IMO is worrying about it beforehand, as everyone tells you it's a swine of a job and that you have to remove half of the front end. Not so!
I just moved the tank back as far as the fuel hoses would allow, and covered it with a thick cloth, then I removed both glove boxes and unbolted the handlebars (first marking their position). It's vital to remove the short bolt-on cable retaining bar from behind the bars too. This gives a much greater range of movement for getting the bars out of the way when working. You should also cut all of the cable (zip) ties from around the headstock/forks to allow greater movement.
Since you will now not have easy access to the under-tank connector for the ABS, unbolting one side of the fork brace will allow the forks to come out with said wiring still connected.
Everything else was plain sailing, but you do need an assistant to help with holding the bars out of the way, and holding the bearing puller in position while fitting it.
Here are a few pictures (resized to allow them to display on the board without havng to scroll -  );
Removing the cable retaining bar
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The adjusting ring exposed
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Drifting out the adjuster ring bearing.
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Fitting the puller to remove the lower outer bearing case
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Same as above but for upper outer case
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Puller with removed outer casing attached
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Cleaning the aduster ring
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Using as socket as a drift (much easier than using a draw-bar)
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Using a tube as a drift on the lower inner bearing (stem)
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The new bearing fitted to the stem and packed with grease
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Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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Rider
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Apr 2003
Posts: 222
Location: La Grande, OR
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:14 pm Post subject: Head set bearing |
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K11Martin
You put together a very well documented description of the job. Thanks.
Did you use heat or cold on the parts to aid assembly?
Ed
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2007 650 Burgman, 2003 400 Burgman
Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you. |
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Off the grid wrote: | | I would not replace anything but bobbins |
What the hell are bobbins?
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Jim
1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold 
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium |
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Small mystical creatures found in the forest.
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Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Saltcreek wrote: | | Off the grid wrote: | | I would not replace anything but bobbins |
What the hell are bobbins? |
What holds your flaoting rotors to the carriers. Do a search here on "bobbins" for more info.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Dammit Drake!
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Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Off the grid wrote: | | Small mystical creatures found in the forest. |
Thanks, Dave.
I probably could have figured it out myself if they were called bobbins in the fiche.
I don't see anything in the maintenance schedule about replacing them. Is this decision made just on the basis of play? Typically at how many miles?
I don't see anything in the fiche about the ones with springs.
While we're on the subject, why floating rotors?
_________________
Jim
1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium |
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:20 pm Post subject: Re: Head set bearing |
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| Rider wrote: | | Did you use heat or cold on the parts to aid assembly? |
Freezer for the outer bearing casings and gentle heat on the inner races, then allow to cool and pack with grease.
_________________
Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Saltcreek wrote: | | Off the grid wrote: | | Small mystical creatures found in the forest. |
Thanks, Dave.
I probably could have figured it out myself if they were called bobbins in the fiche.
I don't see anything in the maintenance schedule about replacing them. Is this decision made just on the basis of play? Typically at how many miles?
I don't see anything in the fiche about the ones with springs.
While we're on the subject, why floating rotors? |
They will let you know when it's time to replace them - with noise. At fist you'll notice little rattles fomr them when backing the bike out of the garage. When they get worse they' start rattling when you're riding at low speed.
IF oyu look at the fiche there are too kinds of bobbins. The one with a Q of 6 (3 per side) is the "springy" one.
Expect 30-50k miles per set.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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I took my wheel off and took it to my dealer. They did not charge me labor to put them in since taking the wheel off is the hard part, and I bought the bearings fro m them. Its not that expensive and good piece of mind.
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6
It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al |
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