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ABS lights
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:46 am    Post subject: ABS lights Reply with quote

I've done a bit of a search but can't find anything which is identical to what I've got..
Minding my own business at 80mph ish when the ABS lights start to flash. R and L sequentially. Pressed the ABS button as I was going along and when I'd stopped but no difference.
Brakes are working fine as far as I can tell.. (Jan 98 LT ABS 2)
any thoughts? Confused
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1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the ABS lights are flashing it means your ABS is in fault mode. When this happens, your brakes will still work normally so there's no safety issue aside from the fact that you don't have ABS anymore.

The first suspect is a battery on it's way out as the ABS control unit is sensitive to low voltage. If it isn't the battery then there's a problem in the ABS system. You can hook up a 12V LED to the diagnostic plug and find out which component is causing the control unit to fault:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

The ABS switch should keep the lights from blinking for several minutes. If that doesn't happen then your ABS switch isn't working. This is usually cuased by the wires coming loose from the back of the switch so they probably need to be resoldered. Or there's corrosion builr up on the contacts in the switch. You can take the switch apart and clean it.
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok.. it's a fairly new gel battery so it shouldn't be that. Certainly possible that the wires on the back of the abs switch are faulty - that's already happened on the hazard switch. I'll have a dig around..
thanks FD.
regards to all
Steve
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1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
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owrstrich
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 2566
Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mes thinks at 80mph there would be lotts o volts...

j o
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fnord
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Oct 2008
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Location: Colebrook, CT

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps even a gigawatt or two.
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AMPle, I imagine.. Confused
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand watt you guys are talkin' about.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank **** for that; I thought I was currently isolated..
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ohm I God....Watt are we doing here?
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Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)

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owrstrich
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im trying to stay current with this thread...

j o
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the battery ground - can't hurt.
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94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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rydor
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Joined: 16 Nov 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Southern Illinois, U.S.A.

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This won't fix the underlying problem, but will remove the faults from your ABS brain. Worked for me.
ABS II reset procedure (hijacked from IBMWR)

There is a black 3 pin diagnostic connector on the left side of the bike above and to the left of the battery, you will need to remove the side cover to gain access. This connector will have a blue plastic weather protector connected to the open end. Pin #1 will have two Brown/Black wires, Pin #2 will have one Brown/White wire and Pin #3 one Brown/Green wire. Here are the pin functions for this diagnostic connector.

Reset ABS Fault
Connect a wire from a good frame ground or battery - to pin #2 of the diagnostic connector.
Press and hold the ABS switch on the dash, turn the Ignition ON while holding the ABS switch depressed for 30 seconds. (Some folks report this works better if you turn on the Ignition and THEN press the ABS switch for 30 seconds. Both methods have worked for me). Release the ABS switch, turn the ignition OFF, remove the ground wire from pin #2. The ABS fault code 'should' now be erased.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reset might do the trick. You never know. K bike ABS is VooDoo.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only fault I ever had with my ABS was a fault code from a dead/low battery...the reset feature fixed it and I haven't had a problem since.....been 2 years now. (knock on wood)
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking laterally here, check the clearance between the rear sensor and the ABS ring. If the final drive bearing is starting to collapse, this effect will cause the clearance to alter, and the ABS lights to come on. In extreme cases the sensor may end up touching the ring. I had this happen to me while in France a few months ago.

Sometimes also shows itself as a tight-spot when spinning the back wheel by hand.

My ABS reset switch didn't work either - broken wire on the back of the switch. These switches are also prone to moisture ingress in rainy climes and benefit from being stripped down and a smear of petroleum jelly applied to the small shaft which moves the contact slider.
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Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)

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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice gentlemen..
Final drive bearing was replaced in the last 6 months.
As it happens, got on the bike last night to go home and abs lights behaved normally. This morning too so maybe it was a minor aberration...
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bmwmick
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Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: ABS lights Reply with quote

hirschhs wrote:
I've done a bit of a search but can't find anything which is identical to what I've got..
Minding my own business at 80mph ish when the ABS lights start to flash. R and L sequentially. Pressed the ABS button as I was going along and when I'd stopped but no difference.
Brakes are working fine as far as I can tell.. (Jan 98 LT ABS 2)
any thoughts? Confused


Steve,
If the ABS lamps continue to flash AFTER you have pressed the ABS switch, you have a bad connection either at the switch or in the wiring to the ABS unit. Fix that first.
The fact that your system only fails at 80mph leads me to think there is a wheel rotation fault. Are your tires both the stock sizes? There is some leeway in the size of the tires but not much. The ABS counts the number of pulses from each wheel and compares them.
There is lots of ABS data right here: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110

You do not have a battery problem, they usually only show up at initial start. Check the clearance on both front and rear wheel sensors. The are just a coil of wire wrapped around a core. You can measure them with an Ohm meter. You should see around 135 Ohms on each sensor.

Mick
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chopper_harris
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Nr Wigan, UK

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the front ABS sensor wire, where it passes up inside the front mudguard (or fender, for our colonial cousins Wink ).

The sensor wire shoiuld be seurely cable tied to the brake flexi-pipe.
If the wire has been pulled taut between the fork brace and the fairing, it can foul against the tyre, and wear through.
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hirschhs
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 343
Location: Bucks, UK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks again gents., loads of good advice to keep me busy over xmas! I do have an oversized rear wheel as it happens but right now sitting amongst the dreaming spires, I can't recall the measurement.
I do know it's round.
Cool
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now for my 2d (50c). The differing wheel sizes MAY be a cause, but IMHO that would have shown as soon as it was fitted. I favour an electrical "tune up" as mentioned in IBMWR. Especially connectors under the tank, which tend to hold moisture & rot. The techy way would be to read the fault code to find where to look, then "look" with a multimeter. If you need help in this, PM me for phone number if you wish to chat (on my internet phone 1st hour is free after 19:00). I am experienced in ABS 1 & 2 fault finding. not as daunting as it may first seem.
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