K11 Owners Group

[WVMSFKRS]

Is this the whole shaft? All that time for an inch and half lube job. See the grease that spun out? Should I replace the bushing or is that from something else?





Is the rusty look normal? Keep taking apart? How do I know if the clutch needs replaced?

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IBA#42211
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'09 K1200LT
'07 K1200GT Traded
'96 K1100 RS SE *SOLD*
'05 HD Ultra 82,000+ miles
'04 URAL *SOLD*

[RobWheatley]

What bushing are you talking about? the clutch operating rod runs inside the input shaft without any bushing as far as I remember from when i replaced the clutch on my RS.
While you are that far in it might be worth replacing the engine output shaft oil seal & "O" ring, not much money and easy to do but will save all that work at a later date if it goes (mine did and took the clutch with it)
Just make sure when you refit the gearbox you dont bend the clutch push rod, i used 2 M8 studs fitted into 2 of the engine to gearbox mounts to keep it aligned.

Rob
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[dryheat]

That's the entire shaft. That grease is from your last spline lube, not the gear oil inside the transmission. The input and output shafts (transmission) are probably not leaking, however you may as well replace them while you're there. It took me 2 attempts (I ordered 3 of each seal). They are a bit of a bugger and the last thing you want is for it to leak once you get it all back together.

If you're concerned about bending the overpriced clutch control rod upon reinstallation of your transmission; don't forget, you can slide it out the back side by removing the rubber boot, spring and cap.
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Jeff
1993 K1100RS

[Flying Duck]

Is that gear oil? (Smell it for sulfur/rottne egg smell.)

If it's gear oil, since it's not dripping down the front tranny casing, I'd guess that the seal at the rear of the clutch rod may be where your issue lies. See if your clutch rod or the tube it's in is wet with gear oil.

Bugger of a seal to get out.. Use a socket of the same size to pount it in. (I destroyed the first one before using a socket ot pound it in - it's a good thing the dealer is only a few minutes away.)

A little rust is normal on the outside of the clutch - nothing to worry about.

Is your clutch slipping? If not, then stop where you are. If it's slipping, then you should get the clutch plate out and probably clean things up with some brake cleaner. Although, depending on mileage and how thick the clutch plate is, it might make sense to replace the clutch plate so you don't have to go back in for quite a while.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[WVMSFKRS]

Duck is this that your talking about? I'm getting a new boot for this. Dealers are at lest 100 miles away.

[WVMSFKRS]

[Scott_Anderson]

I would say that #10 in your diagram is for the engine side of the clutch. The other seals for the tranny will be on another diagram.
Don't forget also that if you pull the clutch assy, your going to have to align it somehow when it goes back in. Easy if you have the means, otherwise...... what's the saying--let a sleeping dog lie.
I just pulled my tranny off, cleaned and lubed the tranny input splines and reassembled. The first time took the longest. Now that I have an idea how it's done, the next time will only take 2/3 as long or less. Not to mention what NOT to do.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[dryheat]

The "bugger" seal(s) are not in that diagram. One of them, the input shaft on you transmission seal, was in the first photo you had shown. (pn# 23121451151) The other, which is slightly larger, is on the opposite, output side of your transmission. (pn #23121451152)

If you do decide to take the clutch housing out..you will need to replace the o-ring, ((pn# 11211460456 (#11 in your diagram) ))..the hex nut, ((pn #11211460796(#8 in your diagram) ))..and I replaced the compression ring, but I don't know if you have to ((pn #11211460696 (#9 in your diagram) )).

rear main seal is pn #11117666186. That's easy to swap out and you may as well while you're there.

I mentioned sliding the control rod in through the back as an idea to help with re-assembly. Depending on whether or not you have a clutch alignment tool, it may take a few attempts to get things lined up right before your transmission will seat properly.

Oh..and with all of that...I'm just a hack at all this, so I would confirm anything that I say with someone who knows what they're talking about
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Jeff
1993 K1100RS

[Flying Duck]

I think the part number is 23211451159. What it does is keep the gear oil in the clutch boot from creeping up the clutch rod to the input splines and spinning off to the clutch plate.. It's an obscure little part but important.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Flying Duck]

[jaaars]

I replaced my clutch at 75,000 mi. because the seal at the pushrod failed. (I did it twice!) A year later the spring lost tension,(here we go again) The spring is only 49.00. Cheap insurance to replace it also. Ride safe, Jeff
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Boot and Saddles

[K11Martin]