K11 Owners Group

Ragman · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 97

K 11LT.

The 15amp fuse keeps bl;owing when the switch is activated.

I cring at bringing it to the dealer for a fix if I can do it myself. My Clymers manual does not go there. I tried using the site search with no luck.

Can someone give me some clues for a fix?

Much appreciated,

Ragman
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"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
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1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

Off the grid · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:14 am Post subject:

That particular fuse also innervates the cig lighter.

Willing to bet it's the cig lighter.
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Jim · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:27 am Post subject: shield fuse

can you hear the relay click when you operate the switch? Or does it blow right away? If it blows right away, I'd say short circuit.

If you have to hold the switch to make it blow, the motor or shield operator is stuck. When is the last time you lubed the shield operator? I lube mine every spring - it's an easy job. You want something real slippery - TriFlow or DuPont Teflon. Clean the guides up real well.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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1992 K75RTP 46,000

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Ragman · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 97

Thanks for the fast reply!

I doubt the mechanism has ever been lubed.

The bike is a '95 with 18K when I bought it and the guy didn't do any maintance except change the oil every 1500 miles.(thank goodness!)

The fuse would not blow if I helped it along, so it probably needs to be lubed. (I hope).

Itlooks as if there is no way to lube the cables. But the two rods, with springs attached, are bone dry.

Is this where I need lube?

Is there any other service while I have it out?

Thank you,

Ragman

P.S. I'll also check out the lighter.
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

Off the grid · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:37 am Post subject:

You can lube the cables but it involves taking apart the entire assembly and pulling the windshield motor off.

About an hrs worth of work, but seeing that it's blowing fuses will be definitely worth it.

Make sure you get the entire length of cable by working each side individually and returning them to the lowest position before re-assembling.

I used a lithium-based lube, but I am sure you could use another type like graphite.

_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

Ragman · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 97

Holy Shit.

I think I'll just start with the rods and see what happens!

Rag
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

Off the grid · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:48 am Post subject:

It's really not that bad.

Take off windshield. (and use opportunity to wash in sink)

Unscrew the 6-8 bolts in the front, lift off assembly and unscrew windshield motor assembly from the fairing piece.

.....Also have to take off the 4-6 bolts in the back...the "cockpit" where the switches are.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

K11Martin · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 3:37 am Post subject:

Take the motor off and try operating it in 'free air'. It's very easy and only requires removal of three screws once the shield panel is lifted out.

It is common for the windshield mechanism to sieze, but the motor is normally so strong that it will strip teeth on the plastic gearwheel rather than blow a fuse. It is reasonably well protected from water ingress (even during washing) so rusting should not normally be the reason.

It can be stripped down but it's damn fiddly.

If it does work OK when separated from the mechanism, lubing the 'spring-cables' in the tubes will not be sufficient, although this should be done. I prefer oil rather than grease here, and you should work them manually until they work smoothly.

The real culprit is not the tubes, but that the original grease will have atrophied in the sliders. Just applying more lube will not cure the fault, and the old stuff will need removing first. This a real fiddly job (take careful note of the spring positions before dismantling) and make sure you remove all of the old grease before proceeding.

As has a been said, use a silicone or Teflon based spray on the plastic 'slider-cups' rather than grease.

This will make the system work very well, but it may work too well, in that you will have to be very quick with the button pressing to achieve fine adjustments. I find this infinitely preferable to the sluggish action which the original grease caused, even when new.

Did mine two years ago and it's still working fine. Remember to use the screen at least once a week to keep it working freely.
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Ragman · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 97

Great advice!

Did as suggested and everything works great now. I used Remington gun oil with Teflon on the cables and very light silicone grease on the rods. Everything slides with just minimal restance.

Thanx again all the advice. With your help the dealer ship costs were avoided and I learned more about this great machine.

This site is really top notch.

Ragman
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:07 pm Post subject:

I don't know about the windscreen cables but the other cables (clutch, choke and throttle) should NOT be lubed. They have a special Teflon-ish lining that is degraded if lubed.
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Ragman · Mad Brick Rider Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 97

The Remington gun oil contains Teflon and perhaps it will be compatable.

Time will tell.
_________________
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty."
~Thomas Jefferson

1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC