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touchy brakes

 
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mnb
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:03 am    Post subject: touchy brakes Reply with quote

So I've got new pads on the front. I had the shop put em on while putting on the new BT45s and doing a regular service.

If I move the lever a millimeter, they grab It takes very little pressure to exert a significant amount of braking force. This is much too sensitive for my preferences.

Any ideas what would cause this? Is there anything I can do to loosen up the feel some?
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BMGraeme
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What type of pads did they fit? I just switched to double H sintered pads which pull very strongly with a small amount of movement. Personally I like it that way but may not be everyone's choice. They also may need a little settling in time to fit the rotors like the old ones did.
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Al.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:02 am    Post subject: brakes Reply with quote

I have the opposite- new ones taking time to bed in.
You will get used to the sensitivity.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had new pads installed front and back a few weeks ago. I agree that the front brake lever became a two finger operation for a week or so. The lever also engages sooner- that is I don't have to pull it back very far at all to get them engaged.

The brakes have decreased somewhat in sensitivity in the past couple of weeks, I think(?)

Also, some fluid was probably taken out of the system when the new pads were installed, and that may have bled any remaining air out that was softening the lever. You may have just become accustomed to the brakes with a bit of air in the lines and now have a very well bled front brake system. Just my 2 cents....
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hockeyshifter
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keep this in mind and this goes for all pad on all vehicles.
the first 100 to 200 miles you should make long medium pressure stops.. avoid the panic/ short stopping distances
The reason for this is the pads are not even and flat to the surface of the rotor. they must be worn down to conform to the rotor surface

as for the grippness if you have switched to a new compound that could explain alot if you have upgraded from stock pads.
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beemeerr11
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 11:35 pm    Post subject: Re: touchy brakes Reply with quote

mnb wrote:
So I've got new pads on the front. I had the shop put em on while putting on the new BT45s and doing a regular service.

If I move the lever a millimeter, they grab It takes very little pressure to exert a significant amount of braking force. This is much too sensitive for my preferences.

Any ideas what would cause this? Is there anything I can do to loosen up the feel some?


You have a dial next to your front brake lever that has 1 to 4 on it, 1 being a longer pull, 4 being shorter, if it is on 4, set it back to 3,2 or 1 and see how you go, this might help.

lou 95LT
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mnb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:21 am    Post subject: Re: touchy brakes Reply with quote

beemeerr11 wrote:
You have a dial next to your front brake lever that has 1 to 4 on it, 1 being a longer pull, 4 being shorter, if it is on 4, set it back to 3,2 or 1 and see how you go, this might help.


That doesn't change the length of the pull, only how far out you have to reach to grab it.
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Ragman
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had a simular problem on my '95K11LT, no clearence at the lever and the front brake sometimes dragged.

Tech at the dealership adjusted the plunger pin in the front master cylinder to provide more play in the bake lever.

I must add that they installed a new front master cylinder a couple of K ago. And adjusted the plunger at no charge. Only took 10 minunts.

This may or may not be your problem.

Ragman
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BMGraeme
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: touchy brakes Reply with quote

mnb wrote:
beemeerr11 wrote:
You have a dial next to your front brake lever that has 1 to 4 on it, 1 being a longer pull, 4 being shorter, if it is on 4, set it back to 3,2 or 1 and see how you go, this might help.


That doesn't change the length of the pull, only how far out you have to reach to grab it.


That's correct. However, with the old organic pads fitted I had this set to no.4 since I needed loads of travel to get the brakes to work, and anything less had the lever back to the bars. When I replaced these with EBC HH pads I could move this to no.1 as I get much more braking force with less lever travel and just two fingers.
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mnb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are stock pads. SJ BMW stopped carrying EBC a while back after an "issue" with them. I have no idea what that issue was. They worked fine for me for years...

I have noticed that something about reinstalling the front wheel can affect the pressure required. I recently had the front tire replaced on my Harley, but I accidentaly bought a rear tire (right size for the front, though). So they reinstalled the tire and when I rode off, I noticed the force required to brake was much less. Given that quite a bit was required before, I liked this.

However, when I returned with the right tire and rode off, it was back to 'normal.' I have no idea what caused this difference.

The new pads on the beemer are working really well, almost too well. I could kill myself with one finger. This is much more sensitive than it used to be. I can understand a change with new pads, but this is a HUGE difference and borders on dangerous.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They probably stopped using EBC pads due to squeal - OEM pads have a spring in them to reduce squeal.
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BMGraeme
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the US versions of EBC pads are different but mine have the springs fitted and are silent in operation. Mind you, I do put a smear of copperslip onto the backs of the pads before fitting which is also to prevent any squeal.
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rover759
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

God this is the $1M dollar question and without seeing its hard to know-
Perhaps you could start by taking it back and having a grumble!!
It could be new fluid has improved the pressure
It could be the master cylinder
Or it could just be that your old pads were knackered!! Shocked
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mnb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rover759 wrote:
God this is the $1M dollar question and without seeing its hard to know-
Perhaps you could start by taking it back and having a grumble!!
It could be new fluid has improved the pressure
It could be the master cylinder
Or it could just be that your old pads were knackered!! Shocked


I'm taking it in to another (my more preferred but much less convenient) shop for some more serious work (new fork springs, fork replacement, wilbers shock, some other minor stuff) soon. I'll ask them about it when I bring it in.
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rover759
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you getting the matching wilbers fork springs too?
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mnb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rover759 wrote:
are you getting the matching wilbers fork springs too?


I'm not sure. I sent a list of what I'd like but I didn't specify the brand of springs. I told them my riding style and I'm going to go with their recommendation. I also inquired as to at 55k miles if I would need to replace anything else in the forks besides the springs.

I decided on the Wilbers shock because it's comparable to the Ohlins in performance but the adjusters are MUCH nicer on the Wilbers. Very easy to tweak.

I'm not getting new cams or exhaust, but it's gonna feel like a whole new bike just about when I'm done. Smile I'm looking forward to some stability in turns at high speeds for once! It has a tendency to wobble side to side when I really get on it now.
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