K11 Owners Group

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:55 pm Post subject: Slippy Clutch

My beloved bike has only 52k miles under it's tank. It (allegedly) has never stood idle for any substantial time & there are no oil drips from the bellhousing.
In 4th gear, mainly, under reasonable acceleration, whether or not I have a pillion, it slips. This appeared suddenly one night. Yes, I have checked the free play, looked for rocks in the release arm & done a quick search.
Of What should my shopping list comprise please & what is the readers opinion/s of the symptom/s?
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Off the grid · Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:49 pm Post subject:

Same thing happening to me in 3rd and 4th.

I haven't checked the cable actuation yet though.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

markmack · Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:10 pm Post subject:

If you are going in.
Clutch, clutch spring, output shaft oil seal, clutch o-ring, moly grease for splines, silver grease for the swing arm piviots. To get the list started.

Good luck, it's not to bad just allow alot of time,
Mark
_________________
markmack
R100RT 1979..First road bike, spoiled me on BMW's and a touring fairing, moved had to sell.
K75C ..Spoiled me on the K motor, smooth, sold.
K1100LT 1993..Best tour bike for me.
K1200LT 2003..Happy wife..Happy life.

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:21 pm Post subject:

IF a prior owner rode slipped the clutch a lot then it could be just a worn clutch plate.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:52 pm Post subject:

Thanks Gents, at least I have the moly in stock Laughing

Just helped my brat with his R1100 gearbox, so have some experience, but he hasn't got ABS2 in the way.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject:

Update, as the weather forecast is crap this weekend, started work. So far the exhaust is off (in two pieces, #4 pipe cracked @ weld), 6mm swing arm adjuster was only finger tight, needs 8 header studs & nuts due to corrosion (none sheared off amazingly) & 2 rubber mounts have parted.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Off the grid · Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:19 pm Post subject:

Ok I think my clutch cable is too tight and I want to give it some more slack, however the barrel adjuster at the lever is bottomed out...no adjustment except for making the cable tighter.

If I want to give the clutch some slack I need to tighten #10 screw and snug up the locking nut? I'm pretty sure I need to tighten it, but want to be sure.

_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:45 am Post subject:

If I recall correctly, the factory manual indicates that you're only suposed to putz with that bolt when you install a new cltch plate.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Off the grid · Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:13 pm Post subject:

So the only clutch adjustment is the barrel adjuster at the lever? Question

_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

dave n · Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:45 pm Post subject: clutching at straws

Turn #10 a turn or two in and try it. The manual gives a typical BMW long winded procedure for adjusting clutch cable but you should be able to "shade tree it"

Just keep track of what you do so you can undo it if necessary.

As long as the clutch release lever does not hit trans or O2 sensor wiring and trans goes into gear without grinding or lurching you should be good to go.

FYI I have about 9/16" of bolt exposed above lock nut.
_________________
Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650

Off the grid · Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 3:03 pm Post subject:

As stated earlier, I think my cable is too tight, thus creating an ever so slight tension on the clutch actuation.....same thing as if the clutch lever is pulled in a bit. (slipping the clutch)

Due to this, my 3rd and 4th are slipping. I think if I release some tension on the cable it will solve my clutch issues.

(crosses fingers)
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:53 pm Post subject:

Off the grid · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:36 pm Post subject:

*Update*

Brought the bike to my shop, guys put it on the stand and took a look after I described my symptoms.

They backed out #10 bolt about an inch and snugged it up tight. Praise the babyjesus for that lift....that lock nut is impossible to get to....it is 12mm and the bolt is 10mm.

Now the clutch starts to actuate about an inch from full lever depression instead of at the end of the lever fully out.

What a difference. She's as tight as a librarian. Nothing like pegging the throttle coming out of a turn. (previously I would have to gingerly baby it up to speed)

Crap shes fast. And responsive.

If I didn't get any sleep last night I would still be out right now.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:56 pm Post subject:

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:06 am Post subject:

Update,
Bit worried about rattly noise from engine area, shouldn't have trusted #1 son to refit the alternator. Seems he missed the slots in the rubbers. 3 hours later including ANOTHER ABS removal, refit & bleed (at least the fluid is all new now) all sorted.
Here is a tip for easy alternator refit :- In order to hold the rubbers in the correct spacing, I rolled up 3 off 2" squares of kitchen towel to be approx 1/8" thick & pushed them into the gaps before replacing the alternator. I expected these to be displaced during fitting. Slid in like a dream, first time.
Now it goes better (exhaust headers welded) handles better (swing arm bearing adjusted) & doesn't rattle like a tractor.
Roll on summer.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

bmwmick · Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:02 am Post subject:

Tim
Another trick for fitting the new 'monkey nuts' is to put a very small amount of super glue on the back of each rubber isolator. Stick them to the driven cup and smear just a bit of silicone grease in the area where the vane from the driving dog fits in.
Use the alignment marks on the outside of the driven cup to align the two parts and they will slip together easily.

Mick
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:43 pm Post subject: