K11 Owners Group

[Flying Duck]

My 95 RS will be pushing 40k by January so I figure I'll pick a rainy day and grease them splines. From prior threads, I get the idea that most folks here are removing the ABS II crap to get ti out of the way.

Anybody here ever done an ABS II spline lube without disconnecting the brakes? (I really hate screwing with brake fluid and just changed it last week so I'd like to avoid putzing with the brakes.)

In looking at my parts RS, it seems as though it could be held up to the frame with some string or whatever.


On other fronts: F**K LEAKS!. The right front fork is leaking - CRAP! The bike is in CA now and I"m home. I'll have to buy some fork seals and replace them when I go down for Christmas before I ride it back home. Oh well, good time to add fork boots and upgrade to some RaceTech springs I'd originally bought for the LT. (I was waiting for the LT forks to start leaking before putting them in - those nasty little clips in the forks are not one of my favorite things to play with. )
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[John S]

I'm sure I read somewhere a description of how this can be done without removing all the brake plumbing, but of course can't find it now.

If you go down this route some pics on how you support the brake components would be great.

Cheers

[pfls]

You can do a spline lube without removing the abs pump. Just unbolt it and tie it up to the frame out of the way.

[Das Boot]

Duck,

Be very careful the abs pipes can bend very easily, its not a fun job, I would suggest a helper. A small thing going in your favor is that the splines are tougher on ABS2 machines. The splines are coated with the same Nikisil stuff as the internal engine parts. My transmission input splines have always had plenty of grease on them and looked like new. I cleaned them and regreased but they did not need it. I am not going to open mine up again. Do you know if they were ever lubed before? If you know for a fact they were, I would leave them alone. If you are digging into it, I would suggest buying the bushings for the paralever, since it sounds like you are going to keep the bike.

Somewhat uncommon tools you will need:
a heat gun
a 12 mm socket or wrench
a 6 mm socket
a torque wrench that can go as low as 7nm which is very close to 5lbs
a very good quality Loctite for the nuts and setting the outer stud allen head bolt.
I would look into the marine grade grease that many have suggested is even better then the Moly 60 stuff as well, I cant think of what its called at the minute, I ll think of it and let you know the name.
_________________
Dom

[Flying Duck]

[Das Boot]

Duck,

Looks like you have things covered. The heat gun is for the big 12mm nut and the 6mm stud on the opposite side. I was able to use a big breaker bar on the 12mm, however the 6mm was harder and had more Loctite on it and needed to be heated.

If it was me, I think I would check the universal joint for smoothness and the splines on either side. If they look good, I would button it up and call it a day. If dry or worn then I would "think" about tackling the entire project. I only mention checking them out becuase I dont trust the dealers work.

BTW, I would take a close look at the bushings inside the forks as well, when you have them apart, my inner bushings were badly worn and need replacement. And while you have the forks apart it might be a good time to check the steering head bearings play. Do you have the BMW spacer tool? I think its only way to do the job or you can make one using the exact same specs.

Best of Luck,
_________________
Dom

[jimajr37]

By the way, not were you, but how much were you affected by the flooding? Thought about you when I saw the pictures on the news.
Jim

[Das Boot]

Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:27 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

By the way, not were you, but how much were you affected by the flooding? Thought about you when I saw the pictures on the news.
Jim

Jim,

He is a Duck. I am sure he's fine I hope anyway

BTW Duck,

If and when you ever get into the input drive splines, it would be a good idea to take out the starter and clean it up with some contact cleaner.
_________________
Dom

[Flying Duck]

[Flying Duck]

[jimajr37]

Why am I not surprised?!!! Good for you!

[QXEA]

Duck,
I do not think you can. When I did the splines on my 95 RS the thing that prevented me from leaving the ABS unit in place was the tray that is under ABS unit. You need to get the tray out of the way to remove the alternator. Once you pull the lines off the ABS unit you can swing it outside the frame and tye rap it up. Once you get that thing out of the way it makes the job much easier. FYI, I did the splines on my 95 RS at 43,000 and they were in great shape, no wear, no red rust.
Cheers,

Merle

[Flying Duck]

[QXEA]

Duck,

The red rust I was referring to was all of the red colored metal fillings you see on splines that are run to long in between spline lubes and the splines are just trashed.
Your correct the alternator does not need to come out for a spline lube but I wanted the alternator out to replace the rubber cushions between alternator and the engine.

The bracket for the foot pegs needs to come out to move the tranny back for sure. Getting it up and off the studs that hold it in place could not be done because I could not get the ABS unit high enough with the lines connected to remove the tray and the foot peg bracket.
Cheers,

Merle