K11 Owners Group

[Al.]

I see a post from last year about back brake jamming on.

Well, happened me Sunday and the boot went on fire.
I was down on my hands and knees blowing out.
I was on a country road when I began to notice something odd going on.
I stopped to see clouds of smoke and the rubber starting to burn.

Luckily the flame did blow out.........

It happened before the piston got stuck due to corrosion in cylinder. I put in a new piston and it was fine until now. Not certain of exact cause yet.

I haven't got time to strip it down yet.

Do the splines need to go back on exactly as they were before??
I read something about that long time ago.
I won't be taking out driveshaft I don't think.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Jim]

A couple things... have you replaced your brake lines / hoses? They can look fine on the outside, but be rotten inside, and can actually create sort of a check valve - allowing fluid to go one way, but not the other.

Did you make any adjustment to the rear brake foot lever travel?

Those are the 2 most common rear brake problems I can think of at the moment.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Flying Duck]

There's a set screw of sorts with a locknut on it that controls the amount of freeplay in the rear brake lever. That being too far in is what causes the brake cylinder piston to get pushed in too far so that it gets stuck on the master cylinder's set screw. Back that out some to avoid this in the future.

Rear master set screw that the piston gets stuck on if it gets pushed in too far:



What to loosen to adjust freeplay:




Yes, you need to "phase" the front and rear halves of the drive shaft:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/dsphase/dsphase.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[John Clauss]

I had the brake hoses go bad on my RS. Caused the same issue, but never caught fire. I have been looking for some stainless steel lines and having trouble finding them for my LT. Any suggestions would be great.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al

[Flying Duck]

[Al.]

Thanks for all that.
I'm planning on complete replacement of cylinder.

I have fitted braided hoses a few years ago.

I notice black grease around the moving parts on
universal joint. Should it be black? or is that from
the heat from the disc. Is it possible to lubricate it,
or is it a write off.

Motorworks have a repair kit for bearings with removable
grease nipples. £95.
The bearings aren't good.

I marked the disc so I hope to put it back as found.
At the moment I can't see the UJ at the gearbox I
haven't really tried hard yet.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Flying Duck]

[Jim]

Worth a watch - or two...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaaTyL099RA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRkYhI1afHk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt69zYAcXME
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Flying Duck]

[Niemand]

With the graininess of that last vid, I was expecting some Turbo Encabulator enlightenment.

John - I went with Spiegler for my brake lines and they did not disappoint.

Here's the '94-'97 LT kit:

https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits/bmw-k-1100-lt-front-rear-brake-line-kit-k-1100-lt-s-bm0107.html
_________________
Niemand

1994 K1100RS
2023 DR650SE

[Flying Duck]

[Al.]

Thanks again for information.

One thing I noticed in the BMW manual is that you should preload
the torque arm before finally tightening the bolt. They say 85kg
on the bike.

I saw a video where the guy says that pivot bolt on the rhs should be
tightened to 10/12Nm instead of the 7Nm as in the BMW manual.
I didn't notice what Clymer says. He also got a long socket and cut
the side out of it so that he could hold the pivot bolt with an allen key
while tightening the lock nut.

While I marked the disc I'm not sure how much play is in the drive.
I think it was mentioned that one spline out could make a difference.

BTW I'm in west of Ireland where the grass is green
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Flying Duck]

[Al.]

Eventually got the bits from Motorworks.

But distracted now. Bought a 2010 Audi TT
Quattro 2l diesel. Having issues with diesel
particulate filter. Seems to be an issue with them.
Never noticed about it in looking them up.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Al.]

and, it's very difficult to see the orientation of the joint at the gearbox.
I am reluctant to pull the driveshaft in case I cannot get it back on the
gearbox spline. I think I mig be able to get a mirror on an extender
up beside it.
does it have to be precise, is a spline either way critical.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Flying Duck]

I think your method of marking the brake disc before removal and reassembling with the brake disc in the same position should work.

I think being one spline off vs. 90 degrees off would be better but it would still be slightly out of phase.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Scott_Anderson]

With the paralever drive shafts, the front 1/2 of the spline joint, the female socket end, is mounted (ie surrounded) via a rubber sleeve. You could call it a mini shock absorber so to speak... if the socket has slipped in this rubber mount, you may not get a true, 100% yoke alignment anyway.
The only real way to know if this has happened is to remove the entire shaft and assemble both halves on a flat surface to check.
You might could see up the swing-arm to gauge the position of the front yoke, but it would be by sight only....
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

[Flying Duck]

[Al.]

Thanks for all your efforts.

If I pull the shaft to align and mark it up, is
easy to get it back on the gearbox spline??

Didn't notice anything about the rubber around
the front spline in the manuals.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird

[Flying Duck]

The splines are mounted in rubber inside the front half of the drive shaft.


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE