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Engine drip: 1997 K1100LT
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3121
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2024 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanjiv, the only thing that comes to my mind could be that you have too much sealant between the pump casting and the block.
You could pull the pump and do a "dry fit" with NO sealant just to make sure that the cover will fit.
Then go back with as little sealant as possible. Make sure you have the torque specs handy for the bolts, and they be 10nm for both the pump body and cover.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 400
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2024 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Scott,

Yeah, I wish I had tried the "dry fit" before buttoning it up.
I'll report back once I resolve this (out skiing for a couple of days).

I got another suggestion to simply lop off the interfering section of the pump cover (since the interfering section is outside of the sealing area). This sounds like another appealing idea.

Sanjiv
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 400
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2024 3:34 pm    Post subject: Fixed Reply with quote

Thanks again Scott,

The torque spec really helped .... and that's all that was needed to get rid of the interference.

Strongly recommend your "dry fit" suggestion to anyone else who tries this. The job is quite easy if you take that route (my first time doing anything beyond fluid changes).

Toxic dump is finally fixed. Used tons of degreaser. Bike has never looked so clean in the 24 years that I've owned it.

Cheers,

Sanjiv
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2024 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what function does the U groove fulfil I wonder.

I saw one video where he put the drive cog into the
block befire putting on the pump. Could it be a more
certain way of ensuring it's engaged???

The pump can't go on until main sprocket engages then.

Good or bad??

Have it all out at the moment. Seals in, waiting for new shaft.
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 400
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2024 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure Al,

You can put the drive clog into the block if that's easier for you.

If you get stuck PM me. I made a cell phone video in case I ever need to do this again.

Did you end up replacing the seals? If so, do you have the part #'s handy?

Sanjiv
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2024 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for delay.

Don't have seal numbers.
Had seal kit for some time


Shaft number is
1141 1 461 183
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2024 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sonu wrote:
Sure Al,

You can put the drive clog into the block if that's easier for you.

If you get stuck PM me. I made a cell phone video in case I ever need to do this again.

Did you end up replacing the seals? If so, do you have the part #'s handy?

Sanjiv


Ran it today.
It leaked initially but sealed after a short run.
I read elsewhere that this can happen
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