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Stalling on moving off.
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 2:46 pm    Post subject: Stalling on moving off. Reply with quote

Changed all filters and plugs.
Still doing it.
Any ideas please?
Will drive out on the road no problem.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for vacuum leaks, especially the the main "Z" hose behind the TB assy.
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N41EF
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Joined: 23 Mar 2014
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Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the four rubber caps on the throttle bodies too.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another common possibility for air leaks is the boots between the TBs and the cylinder head getting old and cracked. By now, they are 25 years old and have been through a lot of heat cycles.

A simple test is to take the LT left lower off and spray one of the following around the boots below the TBs: fine water mist, propane/butane, starter fluid.

If the idle decreases with the water mist or increases with a flammable product then that's where you issue is. They're not that hard to replace.

Disclaimer: IF you use something flammable use caution not to start a fire and have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. (That said, I've done it with starter fluid many, many times and never had an issue so there's no need to be paranoid about it, just cautious.)
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for tips.
Clarification - I can get away if I give it lots of revs.
On easy throttle it stalls.

Checked contacts at coils - ok
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minor air leaks can temporarily seem to "cure" themselves as RPMs increase because

a) the volume of air leaked in is a smaller percentage of the total ariflow

b) the increased vacuum can close up the crack that is causing the leak
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
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Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again. Very Happy
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Oscar91



Joined: 11 Apr 2018
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just leave the second gear in and pull the clutch. As long as you pull the clutch in time, nothing stalls. If you are lazy, you can also start from the stand again in the second gear.
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
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Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't get that.

Could it be caused by breather pipes connected to air box.
The little short one is covered in oil..

I notice now it's inclined to cut out whe I stop.
Haven't had time to seriously investigate.
Only driving around the road to test it
The pressure regulator is buried under the box too

Now I have acquired a gift of a Suzuki Burgman 650 so the
garage is kinda full.

Drove 120 miles on it today taking it home.
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Al.
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Joined: 28 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided to have a look this evening and run the engine.
Funny thing happened.
When I turned the handlebars to the right it cut out!!!!!

Check out wiring to ignition I guess. Wink
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read of others having switch wires with internal conductors broken where the loom flexes near the headstock.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
I have read of others having switch wires with internal conductors broken where the loom flexes near the headstock.


I agree. After 24 to 30+ years (and how many high heat cycles?) the wire and insulation on these bikes under the fuel tank and forward to the controls gets really stiff.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only make left turns. 3 lefts = 1 right Razz
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Only make left turns. 3 lefts = 1 right Razz

I'm not politically inclined Very Happy

I searched here for info on a fix but didn't find anything.
Haven't looked at Clymer yet.
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Mike d
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it cuts out when turning the bars, then have a look where the ignition switch loom is tie wrapped to the frame. The constant bending can cause internal fractures, but the insulation may still be intact.

Try to tug the wires apart one by one, sometimes that will be enough to see the broken one stretch.

Mike
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
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Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike d wrote:
If it cuts out when turning the bars, then have a look where the ignition switch loom is tie wrapped to the frame. The constant bending can cause internal fractures, but the insulation may still be intact.

Try to tug the wires apart one by one, sometimes that will be enough to see the broken one stretch.

Mike

Good thinking Wink
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
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Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waggeled wires at thd bottom of the switch and it cut out.
Will I havd to take it out to fix wires.
I'd say it's broken at the switch.
New switch??????
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You probably just need part 3 in this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0526-EUR-06_1989_89V2_BMW_K_1100_LT_0526,_0536_&diagId=51_3484#61322305292
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
You probably just need part 3 in this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0526-EUR-06_1989_89V2_BMW_K_1100_LT_0526,_0536_&diagId=51_3484#61322305292

Thanks!
Agree. But do I have to drill out unit to get it off??
I lifted the cover but the other cables don't leave a lot of room to work.
I have soldered switches before.
Will the switches go back through the cover??

Is there a special tool for replacing the bolts?

Any point in trying to resolder the wires?

If you answer all the questions you get a prize Laughing
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 392
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found grub screw with red paint.
Cleaned off the paint
Took out "glove box" and managed to get screw out without losing it.
Didn't have to drill out the lock.
Found broken wire.
Switch dismantled !!!!!!!!!
Not sure it will go back but I found the problem Laughing

Thanks everybody
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