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Fault Code 2343
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:45 pm    Post subject: Fault Code 2343 Reply with quote

I have a new to me 93 K11LT with 48,000 miles on it. It runs very well, has loads of power, and has been getting 48+ MPG. I brought it home, about 800 miles, a couple of weeks ago. On the way, it started to die if I am coming down from any RPM above about 3000, and I pull in the clutch and close the throttle completely.

If I blip the throttle even slightly after pulling in the clutch, hold the rpms with the clutch in and allow them to drop more slowly, or simply run down to 2500 or below without pulling the clutch in, the bike will drop to idle and hold it just fine. It won't do this on the center stand, only when in motion.

I found some similar symptoms in a couple of threads. Adjusting the TPS was recommended. I checked mine with a digital multimeter, and it comes in exactly at .370- perfect.

I ran codes, and I got a 2343 "mixture setting at limit." I can't find anything that tells me what to do about that. I also don't know if that means rich, lean, or what. The plugs look perfect, it idles fine, and there is no indication that it is running either rich or lean.

What does that code mean, and what should I do about it? Any other ideas?

BTW, I have not yet synced the TB's. I have a Morgan Carbtune ordered, which should be here in a week or two.

thanks
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 404
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just taking a guess here, but the mixture at limit is prob from an air leak, or one of the throttle bodies is WAY out of adjustment. Check the rubber boots where the throttle bodies go to the head.

The mixture out of range is when the ECU is trying to adjust the fuel injection to maintain the proper mixture of air/fuel into the engine by monitoring the exhaist at the O2 sensor.

I've never tried to adjust the TPS but I have used a GS-911 to verify settings.

Another thought would be to pull the 4 plugs and see how they look, do you have one wet (leaky injector) or way dry (air leak).

Where are you located?
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1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9899
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it do this when cold or only once warmed up a bit?

It's unique to 93 LTs and the K100RS4V/K1s but there is an ignition amp bolted to the lower left front of the battery holder bracket.

For the bike to run properly it needs to sink off heat to the bracket and remain relatively cool. In order to do this effectively there needs to be some heat sink compound between the ignition amp and the battery bracket.

The factory heat sink compound will not last forever and is now 20+ years old.

Even if this is not the root cause of your current running issues I would highly recommend renewing that heat sink compound behind the ignition amp. It's a very simple task.

Get some new heat sink compound at Radio Shack or an electronics store.

Take the ignition amp of of the battery bracket. Clean off all of the old heat sink compound from the back of the ignition amp and where it mounts to the battery bracket with some steel wool or a wire brush.

Apply a liberal amount of new heat sink compound to the back of the ignition amp and remount it.

I do this every 25K or so as preventative maintenance.
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93 LT (x2)
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:


Another thought would be to pull the 4 plugs and see how they look, do you have one wet (leaky injector) or way dry (air leak).

Where are you located?


I'm in Western Colorado. The plugs looked good prior to bringing it home, but I might check them again. 1000 miles might tell a story.
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Does it do this when cold or only once warmed up a bit?


It happens after it is warm I think. I know it happens when warm, I'm not sure if it happens when cold. At any rate, that's good info. I have heat sink paste. I use it on the ignition module on my 89 GS. I will look for that. I don't know what an "amp" is, but i'm sure I can find something in that location that has heat sink paste on it.

Thx.

(Edit) - I see it. Looks like very old Heat Sink Compound. I'll take care of that. This problem first arose on my way home, riding across Wyoming in 96 degrees at somewhat over the posted speed limit. Very warm engine conditions.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amp = amplifier.

It is triggerd by the Motronic ECU and controls the ground circuit signal to the coils in order to make the plugs fire properly.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the ideas. I have cleaned all of the connectors that I can find, including one that goes to a brass module located in the top, right, rear of the upper air box. I'm not sure what it is, but I thought it might be an airflow sensor of some kind. The fault code indicates a mixture problem. I'm thinking sensor or vacuum leak.

It definitely happens once the bike is somewhat warm. It will not die when it is stone cold, but as soon as the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark, it begins.

I didn't re-paste the ignition amplifier yet because it is held on with what appear to be 7 mm nuts, and I don't have a 7. I'll see if I can find one tomorrow.

I checked the plugs today, and found that the tips are clean, I mean shiny clean, and they seemed a little wet and smelled gassy. I'm not sure what that means. The untrained clean look would have made me thing lean, but the gas smell says the opposite. I'm really not sure what to think about all of this.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
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Jnclem
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck, what's the best way to pull that amplifier? Did you pull anything else, or just manage to get those two nuts off without losing them? Do you remember if that's a 7mm? It's smaller than 8.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3071
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd suggest checking the water temp sensor. It is located in the water tube riser, sets on top of the block behind the radiator.(between the radiator and the air box).
There are some threads that will give you the temp/resistance chart for it.
There have been a few K riders that have replaced this probe the last couple of years because it has started to fail.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
I'd suggest checking the water temp sensor. It is located in the water tube riser, sets on top of the block behind the radiator.(between the radiator and the air box).
There are some threads that will give you the temp/resistance chart for it.
There have been a few K riders that have replaced this probe the last couple of years because it has started to fail.


That one's next. I cleaned the ignition amplifier and put new heat sink compound on it last night. It tested OK, but there was no sign of any HSP on it any more.

Thanks
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9899
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jnclem wrote:
Flying Duck, what's the best way to pull that amplifier? Did you pull anything else, or just manage to get those two nuts off without losing them? Do you remember if that's a 7mm? It's smaller than 8.


I usually pull the ABS control unit, Motoronic, battery and battery plate because it gives you the best access.

I haven't done that in a while and can't remember the nut size. I'll probably be crucified for mentioning it but just use some small Vise-Grips on the nuts.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Jnclem wrote:
Flying Duck, what's the best way to pull that amplifier? Did you pull anything else, or just manage to get those two nuts off without losing them? Do you remember if that's a 7mm? It's smaller than 8.


I usually pull the ABS control unit, Motoronic, battery and battery plate because it gives you the best access.

I haven't done that in a while and can't remember the nut size. I'll probably be crucified for mentioning it but just use some small Vise-Grips on the nuts.


That's what I did, basically. Actually I just moved the battery back and took four times as long getting it in and out as if I had actually removed the battery and battery box. Oh well.

There was no sign of any heat sink compound to be found. I cleaned everything up, put on new compound, and put it back in. I haven't ridden it yet to see if it made any difference. The connection was somewhat corroded. I did test it according to some instructions I found on a thread someplace. They said to test between pin 4, which is the ground, and pins 1 and 6. Those should be open circuits. If not, the unit is bad. Mine were open, so maybe it is still good.
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Jnclem
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does this thing have something like an idle air control? On a car, I would suspect that as a possible problem.
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BobZ(IL)
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Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 647
Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the HSP thing doesn't work: what Scott said. Bad temp sensor can send message to Moronic that will totally flood engine and make it die. Talk about shiny plugs.
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BobZ(IL) wrote:
If the HSP thing doesn't work: what Scott said. Bad temp sensor can send message to Moronic that will totally flood engine and make it die. Talk about shiny plugs.


Sorry. What's an HSP? You guys have to realize I've been all airhead up until this bike. All this water cool electronic fuel injection is new territory for me.
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Scott_Anderson
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jnclem wrote:
BobZ(IL) wrote:
If the HSP thing doesn't work: what Scott said. Bad temp sensor can send message to Moronic that will totally flood engine and make it die. Talk about shiny plugs.


Sorry. What's an HSP? You guys have to realize I've been all airhead up until this bike. All this water cool electronic fuel injection is new territory for me.


I'm thinking that "HSP" = Heat Sink Paste.......

This ignition amplifier was only used on the K1004v's, K1's and the '93 1100's, and removed after 07/'93. A faulty amplifier will cause problems and they can fail due to excess heat buildup, as with any electronic components if they get too hot.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Jnclem wrote:
BobZ(IL) wrote:
If the HSP thing doesn't work: what Scott said. Bad temp sensor can send message to Moronic that will totally flood engine and make it die. Talk about shiny plugs.


Sorry. What's an HSP? You guys have to realize I've been all airhead up until this bike. All this water cool electronic fuel injection is new territory for me.


I'm thinking that "HSP" = Heat Sink Paste.......

This ignition amplifier was only used on the K1004v's, K1's and the '93 1100's, and removed after 07/'93. A faulty amplifier will cause problems and they can fail due to excess heat buildup, as with any electronic components if they get too hot.


Yeah, I realized in the middle of the night, I'm the one that was saying HSP, then I didn't know what he was talking about. Oi. I need a break from thinking about this. Time to go ride.
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Jnclem
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
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Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't a bad Water temp sensor cause problems on a more regular basis? Not just on hard deceleration? I still haven't found any instructions for testing it, but I will keep searching.

Does anyone know where part number 15 in this image "idle regulating valve" is located?
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0000378.png?v=07012015[/img]
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope I didn't miss part or all of one of your posts.

If it's cutting out on hard acceleration, I'd immediately think fuel filter. Have you changed that yet?
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
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Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
Hope I didn't miss part or all of one of your posts.

If it's cutting out on hard acceleration, I'd immediately think fuel filter. Have you changed that yet?


It's only on deceleration, and only if the clutch is pulled in and the throttle completely closed when the engine is turning more than 3000 rpm or so. Never on acceleration. No other stumbling, roughness, hesitation, nothing. Just that one issue.

However, the plugs do seem a little wet, but not dark in color. The only thing with that, is that I have never checked them when good and hot like you're supposed to.

I'm considering throwing a water temp sensor at it simply because on this early model its only a $40 part, and testing them seems like a bit of an ordeal. If I take it out, I'm putting a new one in.
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