K11 Owners Group

Jnclem · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:45 pm Post subject: Fault Code 2343

I have a new to me 93 K11LT with 48,000 miles on it. It runs very well, has loads of power, and has been getting 48+ MPG. I brought it home, about 800 miles, a couple of weeks ago. On the way, it started to die if I am coming down from any RPM above about 3000, and I pull in the clutch and close the throttle completely.

If I blip the throttle even slightly after pulling in the clutch, hold the rpms with the clutch in and allow them to drop more slowly, or simply run down to 2500 or below without pulling the clutch in, the bike will drop to idle and hold it just fine. It won't do this on the center stand, only when in motion.

I found some similar symptoms in a couple of threads. Adjusting the TPS was recommended. I checked mine with a digital multimeter, and it comes in exactly at .370- perfect.

I ran codes, and I got a 2343 "mixture setting at limit." I can't find anything that tells me what to do about that. I also don't know if that means rich, lean, or what. The plugs look perfect, it idles fine, and there is no indication that it is running either rich or lean.

What does that code mean, and what should I do about it? Any other ideas?

BTW, I have not yet synced the TB's. I have a Morgan Carbtune ordered, which should be here in a week or two.

thanks

N41EF · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:00 pm Post subject:

Just taking a guess here, but the mixture at limit is prob from an air leak, or one of the throttle bodies is WAY out of adjustment. Check the rubber boots where the throttle bodies go to the head.

The mixture out of range is when the ECU is trying to adjust the fuel injection to maintain the proper mixture of air/fuel into the engine by monitoring the exhaist at the O2 sensor.

I've never tried to adjust the TPS but I have used a GS-911 to verify settings.

Another thought would be to pull the 4 plugs and see how they look, do you have one wet (leaky injector) or way dry (air leak).

Where are you located?
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:42 pm Post subject:

Does it do this when cold or only once warmed up a bit?

It's unique to 93 LTs and the K100RS4V/K1s but there is an ignition amp bolted to the lower left front of the battery holder bracket.

For the bike to run properly it needs to sink off heat to the bracket and remain relatively cool. In order to do this effectively there needs to be some heat sink compound between the ignition amp and the battery bracket.

The factory heat sink compound will not last forever and is now 20+ years old.

Even if this is not the root cause of your current running issues I would highly recommend renewing that heat sink compound behind the ignition amp. It's a very simple task.

Get some new heat sink compound at Radio Shack or an electronics store.

Take the ignition amp of of the battery bracket. Clean off all of the old heat sink compound from the back of the ignition amp and where it mounts to the battery bracket with some steel wool or a wire brush.

Apply a liberal amount of new heat sink compound to the back of the ignition amp and remount it.

I do this every 25K or so as preventative maintenance.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jnclem · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:54 pm Post subject:

Jnclem · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:57 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:44 pm Post subject:

Amp = amplifier.

It is triggerd by the Motronic ECU and controls the ground circuit signal to the coils in order to make the plugs fire properly.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jnclem · Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the ideas. I have cleaned all of the connectors that I can find, including one that goes to a brass module located in the top, right, rear of the upper air box. I'm not sure what it is, but I thought it might be an airflow sensor of some kind. The fault code indicates a mixture problem. I'm thinking sensor or vacuum leak.

It definitely happens once the bike is somewhat warm. It will not die when it is stone cold, but as soon as the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark, it begins.

I didn't re-paste the ignition amplifier yet because it is held on with what appear to be 7 mm nuts, and I don't have a 7. I'll see if I can find one tomorrow.

I checked the plugs today, and found that the tips are clean, I mean shiny clean, and they seemed a little wet and smelled gassy. I'm not sure what that means. The untrained clean look would have made me thing lean, but the gas smell says the opposite. I'm really not sure what to think about all of this.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Jnclem · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:29 am Post subject:

Flying Duck, what's the best way to pull that amplifier? Did you pull anything else, or just manage to get those two nuts off without losing them? Do you remember if that's a 7mm? It's smaller than 8.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:31 am Post subject:

I'd suggest checking the water temp sensor. It is located in the water tube riser, sets on top of the block behind the radiator.(between the radiator and the air box).
There are some threads that will give you the temp/resistance chart for it.
There have been a few K riders that have replaced this probe the last couple of years because it has started to fail.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

Jnclem · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:58 am Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:42 pm Post subject:

Jnclem · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:06 pm Post subject:

Jnclem · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:07 pm Post subject:

Does this thing have something like an idle air control? On a car, I would suspect that as a possible problem.

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:04 pm Post subject:

If the HSP thing doesn't work: what Scott said. Bad temp sensor can send message to Moronic that will totally flood engine and make it die. Talk about shiny plugs.
_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

Jnclem · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:19 pm Post subject:

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:29 pm Post subject:

Jnclem · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:13 am Post subject:

Jnclem · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:20 am Post subject:

Wouldn't a bad Water temp sensor cause problems on a more regular basis? Not just on hard deceleration? I still haven't found any instructions for testing it, but I will keep searching.

Does anyone know where part number 15 in this image "idle regulating valve" is located?
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0000378.png?v=07012015[/img]

Jim · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:01 pm Post subject:

Hope I didn't miss part or all of one of your posts.

If it's cutting out on hard acceleration, I'd immediately think fuel filter. Have you changed that yet?
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Jnclem · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: