K11 Owners Group

[flybd5]

I want to try and see if adjusting the shift lever up a bit will resolve my problems with getting my boots underneath for proper shifting. However, I don't know what is needed to remove it other than removing the screw. The Clymer manual is useless for this.
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To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE

[Flying Duck]

Just unscrew and REMOVE the bolt at the rear of it all of the way and then wiggle it off.

If you look closely at the shaft it mounts to you will see a line that lines up with where the gap in the back of it is supposed to be. You can rotate it a spline or two either way to adjust its angle.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[AtLarge]

Wipe the end of the shaft off and mark the gap with a marker. Then take the bolt out. You will probably have to wedge a flat blade into the slot to open it up a tad to get it to slide off. Since you have it marked you know what the starting point is and can move it a notch at a time after testing for fit with your boot on and your foot on the peg.
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1973 Honda CL70-K3, 1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C, 1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1, 1994 BMW K1100RS, 2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120

[flybd5]

So you can only rotate it 1 or 2 splines? That may not be enough to fix it for me.
_________________
To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE

[flybd5]

I figured it out. Much easier than I thought. I can finally ride the bike with my orthopedic German Frankensteen boots. Duckster, I will be send back your lever shortly. I figured out I don't need to do any 3D printing after all. Thanks!
_________________
To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE