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A bike that has not been ridden in 5 years.

 
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RickyBobby



Joined: 31 Dec 2019
Posts: 11
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 12:55 am    Post subject: A bike that has not been ridden in 5 years. Reply with quote

So the last k bike I was interested in didn't pan out.

I've been looking around at other bikes but this one came up
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/mcy/d/edmonds-bmw-k1100-lt/7136087976.html

I don't know enough about these things to know what I'd be getting into with this but seems there is a lot of room to negotiate - as in down.

I'm guessing at a minimum maintenance would be everything.

tires
oil
brakes
valves
injectors
final drive
I hope everything elec. is working. He didn't mention it starting so it probably has a dead battery.

If I got it for less (1-1.5k?) how much am I gonna spend to make it road worthy - if its been sitting for 5 years? I don't want to fix what ain't broke but I also don't want to not fix something if it might.

Then again, if we are talking a couple K (no pun intended) I might not be so interested.

I could be mistaken, but the other k bikes I've seen on CL seem to linger a bit esp. if they need work. I have a 78 naked Goldwing I fixed up and ride so I don't mind doing a little and kinda enjoy it during the winter. But I don't want to be hugely disappointed when I can't find a part cause its NLA
I ended up spending a couple grand on the GW after I'd purchased it for $650. It is a nice bike now but I miss a fairing,windshield, bags.
blah, blah blah.
Anyway if ya'll have any input on this I'd appreciate it.
I emailed the guy and may go look at it tomorrow
thanks
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78 GL 1000 naked.
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3117
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even without considering the fact that it has been sitting the last 5 years, just the fact that it is a '92 you will most likely need to replace ALL the rubber bits, fuel lines, vacuum lines, coolant hoses, brake lines, rubber fittings at the throttle bodies, O-rings at the injector body mounts, etc... you get the idea.
The injectors may be clogged, fuel pump may be stuck, just setting 5yrs, it may not be that bad, but you don't know till you put hands/eyes on it.

If the current owner can start it, and it runs fair, you may have a bit less wiggle room on the price, and less you have to do to it.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 367
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:25 am    Post subject: Not that bad Reply with quote

The previous answer is probably the worst case scenario. I have sold my last K1100 but still have 2 x K75's which are more or less the same just a bit smaller.

The last K75 I bought was an '86 bike that has been in a shed unloved and the last British Roadworthiness test was in 1999! Thus means it probably had not run for at least 18 years. To get it to run, I had to replace the battery, Do a full service - and I mean a FULL service. Plus:-

I did not have to change the coolant hoses they were in good condition but the fuel pipes inside the tank were in poor condition. The external ones were also changed They had all gone hard almost to the point of being brittle, The fuel pump was fine, as was the alternator and starter motor. The tyre rubber was hard and dangerous so they were replaced. Throttle cable and clutch cable were also replaced

The 'K' series of bikes have a place on the inside of left hand side of the tank just behind where the fuel pump sits and water can collect there and corrode the tank from inside. Any water entering the fuel filter will kill it stone dead.
Any fuel in the tank will be stale and should be best washed out anyway.

All switches can be corroded internally but can generally be got to work again with a bit of spray lubricant and worked several times.
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10082
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch spline lube & at 48K it will probably need front brake rotors fairly soon and maybe a rear.

If you get it riding and bring it over to Hood Canal I can help you with the spline lube.

The coolant hoses are probably OK. Brake lines probably won't need immediate replacement but eventually you should re[place with SS.

Fan may be dead.
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fans/fans.htm

Fuel injectors:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fis/fis.htm

Tires:
Bridgestone T31
front 110/80-18
rear 150/70-17
Metal valve stems - Bikemaster 151402
(Seattle Cycle on Aurora is a good place to have tires installed)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 367
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:


Fan may be dead.
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fans/fans.htm

Fuel injectors:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fis/fis.htm

Tires:
Bridgestone T31
front 110/80-18
rear 150/70-17
Metal valve stems - Bikemaster 151402
(Seattle Cycle on Aurora is a good place to have tires installed)



The fan can be easily tested by connecting to a battery direct. If it works then the fan's is usually OK. If when it is running and gets hot but doesn't cut in then it is either the sensor or relay at fault. If it gets hot and stays hot then your thermostat is shot. This happened to me when I was over in Europe and climbing the alps in very hot summer weather.

I know the system for operating the injectors is different from the early 'motronic' system but are the injectors themselves not the same. On the recently restored K75 after storage for longer than 5 years they work very well and actually that bike gives better fuel consumption than my other one which has been run without being layed up any time in it's life.

If the fuel pump causes any problems have a look at the part numbers and then at the ones fitted to smaller BMW/VW/Audi cars because they use the same pump available for far less cost than they charge BMW bike owners!
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10082
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer just letting the bike idle and warm up to see if the fan comes on before the overheat warning light comes on. This tests more of the system. Alternately, on the 4V K bikes you can just short the blue/yellow wire to the fan relay to ground since that's much easier than digging the fan connector out.

If gas sits in any fuel injector long enough it will dry out and turn to hardened varnish which can impact injector performance. Even in bikes that haven't sat for extended period I always send the fuel injectors on a "new to me" K bike in for servicing as routine maintenance. It doesn't cost that much and new O-rings and pintel caps are included.

There are inexpensive Chicom knockoffs of the early K fuel pump available for a very low price. Been running one in one of my K75s for over three years with no issues.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3117
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Not that bad Reply with quote

Grunter wrote:
The previous answer is probably the worst case scenario. ....

Most likely, however, I replaced all that stuff on my '95 in 2015 and it made a major improvement in how it runs.
Rubber remains pliable and useful only so long, regardless of operating hours/miles. Exposure to the elements shortens the life even faster.

Some of the items on the list may have been replaced by a previous owner, but the add didn't say anything to suggest it. If so, then that much the better.

Just saying, buyer beware, and YMMV.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10082
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a 93 LT in 2017 with 57K on it in 2017 that hadn't been run in ten years. I sold it last fall after putting about 18K on it.

What I did:

Cleaned out fuel tank (nightmare) and replaced fuel pump as well as all internal and external fuel lines.

Had fuel injectors reconditioned.

Went through a few sets of tires.

Bled brakes. Did not replace brake lines. Rplaced brake pads when they were getting low

Put some newer (not brand new) brake rotors on it and replaced the front rotor bobbins.

Added headlight relays, cruise control and aux lights.

It was an early 93 with the K100RS4V peg plates so I replaced those with the later K1100 peg plates.

When I was refurbing it I neglected to test the fan but it took me about 7,000 miles of riding before I even knew it was bad when I got slowed in stop-n-go road construction traffic at about 90F. I still completed another 2,000 miles of riding before I got back home and replaced it with a Spal fan.

I didn't replace the intake manifolds on it. I could tell they were still good when I sync'd the TBS. (But my 94 RS with 63K just had one go bad so I'm replacing those and their O-rings this week.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jim
Site Admin


Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3840
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 11:10 pm    Post subject: fuel pumps and kits Reply with quote

EME has reasonable prices on fuel pumps - I've bought a few from them. If the other rubber bits in the tank (vibration damper and hoses) have hardened, you can get the whole kit.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1777.htm
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10082
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2020 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also get Chicom knockoff 52mm fuel pumps from AliExpress or Ebay for about $30 shipped. Been running one in one of my K75s for about 3-4 years now. Perfect fit with no issues. Just search for the BMW part # - 16121461576
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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scottisha



Joined: 05 Mar 2013
Posts: 12
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:58 am    Post subject: old k11 jobbies. Reply with quote

Hi. I have a K1100LT 1992 that I picked up about 5 years ago. I am still not 100% up on maintenance, but keep up on it as time and money allow. So far have done the following:
Replaced: Front master cylinder. Front discs/pads. Fuel filter, new fuel tank seals (top and bottom), new water temp sender, new SAAS Temp gauge, tyres. Speakers upgraded to four inch (crazy custom install). Fork Seals. Head set bearings.
Have also repaired clagged up screen adjuster mechanism. Installed a manual switch for the fan (really a backup plan). Installed additional fusebox under seat to allow for gadget power distribution.

Still on the program : Fluids for gearbox, rear drive. Lube splines job. Re-adjust headset bearings (they need a further adjustment or will quickly bugger up again). New wheel bearings. Assess swing-arm bearings. Replace engine protection bar mount. Replace all rubber hoses, including brake lines. Get rear shock rebuilt (not paying $800 for a fancy replacement - fella in Brissy will do for $150, as long as the shiny bit is ok.) . Handgrip heaters both need repair. Relocate 4 switches and front power outlet, so I can ditch the panel covering the headset and install some friggin aoehangers....yeah baby.

I don't know. All machines will cost money. I think the K11 is a great bike, you can buy them cheap, they run forever, but u have to buy your way in by bringing the bike's maintenance schedule up to date. If u r lucky u will buy one that is mint, but most likely you will have a few things to do now and the others can wait a little while. Ride it.
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Scottisha
k1100LT still workin on it
RF900R, fast is nice
XJ600, project, rustbucket
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flybd5
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jul 2019
Posts: 371
Location: Massachusetts, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: old k11 jobbies. Reply with quote

scottisha wrote:
Get rear shock rebuilt (not paying $800 for a fancy replacement - fella in Brissy will do for $150, as long as the shiny bit is ok.) .


I just sold a rear shock in perfect condition that I pulled from my 1995 to replace with a Wilbers lowered shock for $75 + shipping on eBay...
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1995 K1100LT SE
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