K11 Owners Group

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:11 pm Post subject: New Fork Seals

In reading between several tech sites about fork seal replacement, I'm a bit confused.

I was hoping to just drop the fork sliders on my '93 K1100LT, remove the lock ring and old seal and press in the new one. Then slip the sliders back on the tubes.

A couple sites indicate that the seal must be put on over the tube and driven into place.

Help....thanks.
_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:45 pm Post subject:

I pulled my fork lowers off the uppers to replace seals and 1 bushing, leaving the uppers in the tripple tree.

They possibly could have been talking about the top dust cap, being put on the tube 1st then driven on the lower after it's mated up on the tube.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:50 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the quick reply. I understand it may be a bit difficult to loosen the bottom bolt, I do have an impact wench available.
_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

Saltcreek · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:56 am Post subject: Re: New Fork Seals

Mystic Red · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:50 am Post subject:

Bob. I used the old seal to seat the new and every tool in the chest to get the snap ring out. Just start pulling it apart and you'll see it's not that tough to do, except for the snappy, of course, and the BMW engineers put that in to make it interesting.
_________________
Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466

Phil Marvin · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:57 am Post subject:

Hi, All,
Jim (Saltcreek) wrote, "I think this is the preferred method but probably requires the special tool to seat the seal and lock ring."

I made the special tool as follows:
1. Measure the fork diameter accurately.
2. Go to Big Box Store, one which has plumbing supplies. Measure the inside diameter of various PVC unions (the piece which 2 pipes fit into and butt up against). Buy the union in which the inside diameter is just barely larger than the fork tube diameter, e.g., the union will fit over the fork tube (I think it is a union for 1 1/2" pipe). Buy another piece of PVC pipe a couple of feet long, the smallest size which will fit over the fork tube (I think it is 1 3/4" pipe).
3. Once you have the union home, file out the ridge in the middle of the union which the pipes should butt up against. Once you have done that, the union should slip over the tube and slide down to the slider.
4. After you have removed the slider from the tube, wrestled with and removed the clip and the old seal, removed the tube from the triple clamp, cleaned the tube from the top down and deburred any sharp spots, replaced the tube into the slider, bolted the bottom of the tube to the slider and run the new seal down the clean tube to the slider, you are ready to install the seal. Slip the tool (ex-union) over the tube and down until it bears on the seal. Slip the PVC pipe over the tube until it bears on the tool. Strike the top of the pipe with a mallet, driving the seal home. This may require a number of blows. Remove the pipe and the tool, and reinstall the clip. Reinstall the fork tube and slider into the triple clamp. Align and torque to spec.
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Shoganai · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject:

Shoganai · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:20 pm Post subject:

Here's the fork seal seating tool. (With seal firmly seated using a rubber mallet)

_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT

Nana korobi ya oki

Saltcreek · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:22 pm Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:25 pm Post subject: Re: New Fork Seals

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:37 pm Post subject:

As usual you all have been very helpful. Thanks much. I think I can feel a real difference in the ride.

Left tubes in the triple clamps. Bolts came off the bottoms very easily. Developed a little trick to get the snap rings out, first one took fifteen minutes, second one about a minute. Found a can of perfect size to seat the seal. Shock boots look...well.

Now the tough part. Had the bike on the center stand on the lift, way up. No jack under the engine, just rear wheel tightened in the clamp. Tire came out of the clamp dropping bike to it's knees. Actually landed on front of engine.

Luckily we were able to keep it upright on the table, but it took 45 minutes just to get it back up and properly block the engine. Pretty scary. Could have been an expensive mistake.
_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

Phil Marvin · Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:51 pm Post subject:

Hi, Jim,
Yes, my description (and tools) work when the fork tube is removed from the triple clamp, not if you only remove the slider. Then you would need a take-apart tool, like the factory tool, to drive the seal into the slider.
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Saltcreek · Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:34 am Post subject:

You could probably bandsaw the fitting in half and bandclamp it back together on the tube.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:28 am Post subject: that dang steel ring

Please, share the trick to get that steel ring out.

I did the whole front end this weekend as well while in bewteen grad parties and a wedding. Also a brake job, all new " Moto-bins" bobbins too!

I'm too embarrased to tell you how I pulled that ring out. I tried being gentle at first. Got frustrated, it was very warm here, took a break, then used a less than preferred method that also destroys the inner seal. No damage to fork lowers, just a very crude way to do it.

Apologies to all if it's been covered or posted.
_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:25 pm Post subject:

Mystic Red · Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject:

Bob, 4 hands, that's cheating. Very Happy

_________________
Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466

Shoganai · Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:22 am Post subject: Re: that dang steel ring

Saltcreek · Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:18 am Post subject:

I could swear that when I did mine I grabbed behind one end with a small screwdriver and when I tried to pull out, it went down. When I trid to push the end down, the rest popped out. That's how I remember it anyway.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:18 am Post subject:

As some others have done- after struggling for a while I let SWMBO do it.

Worked like magic.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:38 am Post subject: spring steel ring

Longer version of my story.
I was just going to LOOK at doing the brake bobbins and CHECK the leaky left seal. 45 minutes later ther ya have it, whole front end off the bike.
So I do all the bobbins with the kit from " Moto Bins " nice shiney stainless and a wee bit heavier than the stock alloys so they are NOT sacrificial meaning the carrier is a gonna wear out before these do.
Ok bobbins done, about a half hour whell off bike sitting in the shade.
Look at seals, left leaks, fork oil was blue with black streaks. The right side did not drain when I pulled the drain. I had to carefully poke a small allen wrench in there, all silvery goo, then oil. mmmmmmmm that's not good. Bottom of both fork tubs had a good 1/8" of that crude, so off they go and into the sinks and full clean with lot's of soapy water till all clean and sparkly, then sun dry while I went to a graduation picnic.
Came back, top dust boot, not really a seal is it? Out it comes with a litlle pressure from a screw driver. Then that flippen ring. I try a small screwdriver, moves, but no go. I try to get a hold of it with my super pointy plyers, nope. Back to different drivers to find one that will catch the edge. Maybe the PO messed the end up? I am out of screw drivers and getting hotter. Ok, I know the seal probably has a white metal inner support, but something definately not too hard. I use an old smaller screw driver, place in the top side middle of the seal, angle towards center, and drive it right through. Shop rag around screwdriver shaft to protect fork leg, pry back deforming seal and our seal comes. Take screwdriver again, steel ring is now EASY to push down out of groove. Was so easy I just did the other that way. TOLD YOU IT WAS CRUDE!!! Worked really easy too.
Install new seals, I used Permatex form a gasket to place / drive them securley home, then let sit over night.
Next morning reassemble everything, added new fork oil.
Also changed brake pads , " Galfer " green pads, and full bleed system.
Bike off jack, pump forks by bouncing away, check brakes, test ride.
Short ride, easy on & off the brakes, but the bike feels so good, better than ever, yeah, should done it last year I think. I did not put on gaiters, I have the Traxxion fork guards, BUT, I may switch later. I ride in ALL kinds of chit. And between the rain & road contruction, somtimes the bike gets all gritty just every where's from the traffic spray. I just need to wait a bit.
No more rattle from the front end, big GLIDES over the road with the RAM shock in the back, and the stopping just keeps getting better after that first 100 miles. Smooth and progressive, very very strong. We'll see hoe they work in the rain soon. The last set used to be OK, but I kinda was hot shoeing it one day and cooked em a wee bit too much. Then they started to fell like I needed to ride them a bit in rain to keep them warn. Should have known they were done for.
Oh well, there ya have it. That was my weekend. Could never have done it without knowing you all were right there if I need ya for help. Thanks to everyone who takes the time to share their knowledge and experiences.
See you down the road, or maybe in TN in a few weeks. Very Happy

_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge