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Rough ride in. Suggestions on how to get home...
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N0rseman



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
Posts: 21
Location: Bristol, Rhode Island

PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:28 am    Post subject: Rough ride in. Suggestions on how to get home... Reply with quote

Hi all, I’m thinking I have a clogged fuel problem. On the ride into work this morning, while passing a car, going uphill at around 80 mph the bike started riding rough. It was coughing and surging just as if it was out of fuel at all speeds. At idle it is a little rough but it just asks like it is cold. But as soon as I give it any throttle it starts to sound like my old lawn mower, nasty. My guess is that it is not getting enough fuel

A little brief history. The last time I rode it I rode it dry. Normally the gas light comes on at around 150 mile. Thursday it was raining and there was a traffic jam getting into my normal gas station. So I went to my next station. When I pulled into the next station the trip odometer was at a record 172 miles and the bike was running just like it is now rough, backfiring and with no power. I coasted in and filled up with the good stuff.

The ride home went fine but on the way in this morning things went bad. I figure I floated and or released some crud from the bottom of my tank. I will start in on the fuel filter tomorrow.


My problem today is how to get back home tonight? The gas tank is just over 2/3 full. I have my small tool kit with me but I’m not sure what I should do. It is a 20 mile ride home. I could limp home on the back roads at 40 mph or limp along the freeway at 50- 60. Do you think I could get into the tank and to the fuel filter with 2/3 gas in it and not blow myself up? Would it hurt the bike to limp it home. I would prefer to have the wife pick me up in the mini van then damage the bike.


All Ideas or suggestions are welcome.

-Thanks
Paul
1993 k 1100LT 70K miles
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first time I changed the fuel filter on a K I did it with a half tank of gas because I didn't know any better and by the time I had the gas cap off and saw where the fuel filter was I figured what the heck. So, yes, it's possible.

You'll have to get your hands all wet with gas though and this has been known to cause cancer in rats if they do it every day.
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93 LT (x2)
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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N0rseman



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
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Location: Bristol, Rhode Island

PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good thing I'm not a rat Smile

My co-working is going to bring in an empty gas can after lunch. I figure I can drain, disasamble, and try to blow out what ever is glogged up. I'm hoping that will at least get me home.
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Ted
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too have changed a fuel filter with an almost full tank, at an Autozone parking lot. My advice would be to stop at the nearest auto parts store and buy one of the acceptable substitutes (if you have a NAPA the NAPA Gold filter is I think the best of the non-OEM ones currently available) and a pair of nitrile gloves. While the gloves will not keep all the gas off of you, it will keep a heck of a lot more off than just going without. I would also pick up a small tube of Lava hand cleaner, a bottle of water and a roll of cheap shop towels for cleanup. Total will easily be under $10.

Changing the filter is easy, all you need is the screwdriver in your tool kit.

Here are a few that will work in a pinch, try to get the NAPA if you can...

Napa #3032 (Good substitute)
O'Reilly (formerly Checker) Micro Guard #33032 (Also good)
Autozone - Luber Filter ff3424 (Crap but will do in a pinch)
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also:

CarQuest BG11-1

I did mine with a 1/2 full tank and gloves as Ted suggests. Once you have the fuel cap assembly off it is really easy to do- REALLY.
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Ted
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking about this more, it might help to also pick up some of the BLUE Stabil gas treatment - running it so low you might have picked up some water in the tank. Water will kill a fuel filter in short order.

The Blue/Marine version is specifically made for ethanolated fuel and the water issues it brings along. I have used it since buying the K75RT last fall and the bike seems to love it. One word of warning, a little of this goes a long way so follow the instructions - the "dosing" is a lot less than the regular red Stabil. I didn't know that when I bought the huge 32oz bottle Wink
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Last edited by Ted on Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NAPA 3032

You have to make sure that you get a fuel filter for a fuel injected system that can hold up to the pressure generated by the fuel pump.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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N0rseman



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
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Location: Bristol, Rhode Island

PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all of the advice and help.

I've a Napa close. I'm hoping that after sitting all day it will run ok on the short 5 (mile) trip.

I'll do the repair in the parking lot and finish with a gas treatment.

I love the smell of napalm in the morning. No stop, replace morning with evening and napalm with gas. Smile
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Ted
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Wix 33032 also is as good as the NAPA 3032, they are probably the same filter rebranded. According to this, the burst pressure is 60PSi, well ahead of the 30- to 40psi of a well functioning system but unfortunately below the 65psi bypass of the stock fuel pump.

I did just call the WIX customer info line and was told that the filter is indeed rated for fuel-injected applications. The carburated applications apparently typically have burst pressure ratings in the 15psi neighborhood.
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Ted
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Add a new one, the Mann MWK 44, on their site they list it as a direct replacement for the BMW OEM K-Bike Fuel Filter (#16142325859).

Also, the Mahle KL125 though waiting to hear back from them on Burst Pressure and Micron rating as compared to OEM (which very well may be the same filter LoL.)

Edit - just talked to the Filter guy at AC-Delco, the specs on the ACDELCO GF61 are confirmed at BP 50psi/7 - 11 Micron, and it is made for both carb and FI applications. Here is what I have so far - "confirmed" means I have spoken with someone at the manufacturer/distributor who has given me the info:
Napa Gold 3032 (Confirmed BP 60psi/20 Micron/Fi OK)
Wix 33032 (Confirmed BP 60psi/20 Micron/Fi OK)
ACDELCO GF61 (Confirmed BP 50psi/7 - 11 Micron/Fi OK)

Waiting on:
Mann MWK44
MAHLE KL145

Gave up on Motorcraft FG-2, Purolator F20011 & Fram G2 (all now apparently plastic bodied).

As for CarQuest, I have two possibilities listed now, the BG11-1 and E2036. The Customer Care line was useless as they just kept telling me to call a store, who just kept telling me to call customer care.
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Last edited by Ted on Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ted,

"You da' man"

John
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job, Ted. When you've got all of your data in you should post a Tech sticky on this. Good info to have.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Ted
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just some more info, the AC Delco GF61 is apparently made by or with GKi Industries in Canada, who sells it as a GF61M. GKi also supplies CarQuest with filters that CarQuest brands as their own but no word of the CarQuest variant is a rebranded GF61M/ACD GF61.

Either way, the burst pressure is 50 compared to the Napa/Wix at 60 so it might be better to go that way.

I swear this is confusing stuff - these guys all change suppliers often!
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N0rseman



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got the old girl home but everything is not well.

I bought a Wix 33032 filter for around $6 and the bike has much more power. But it is still running rough. I've also added some Fuel additive. They had the blue stuff on back order so I had to go with the straight red stuff.

At around 45k rpms things smooth out . But off the line it is still rough. Things were not this bad this morning. My O my let the good times roll. Well at least I'm at home and it's the weekend. I'll sleep on it tonight and start in tomorrow.

Thanks all for your help so far. When I put that new filter in and started the bike it did sound much much better. So I feel like it was a two steps forward one step back kind of progress.

Take care;
-Paul
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rydor
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like burnt valves to me... Shocked
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Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They call these bricks for a reason, glad she got you home. There are a bunch of things this could be, just takes careful diagnosing.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be cracked TB boots. Bike will idle like crap but when you get the RPMs up there's enough vacuum for them to seal themselves.

Or possibly crank case breather hose.

Spray some starter fluid around the boots between the throttle bodies and the cylinder head. If the idle improves then you've found your problem.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, both of those could have been really aggravated by the filter issue. When I lost the fuel pump in my e30 BMW the frequent dying really aggravated a few other issues I had, namely several unmetered air leaks in the intake system and a sticky throttle. Both of these issues were a problem, though unnoticeable - until something came along to make them worse. And worse they got, with very rough low RPM idle and performance, and the always great to see Check Engine Light (not!)

Anyway, it took cleaning the ICV, the throttle and replacing the intake bellows and tightening some hose clamps to get the car running happily again, matter of fact lots better than before.
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hockeyshifter
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Joined: 01 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

althought unlikey with these bikes u might have damaged an injector. i had a similar issues with my subaru or at least clogged an injector. the fact that it cleared up after the install of the fuel filter is a good thing. althought the ECU by 2days standard is limited they still have a memory and try to adjust fuel/air.. the fact u ran it dry is of concern for me. Are u running injector cleaner. a dripping injector can cause some of ur issues.
also did u keep the old filter... if you did the reverse blow the filer ... force air into the output side and look at the discharge in a clear container. you would be amazed.
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Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some random thoughts, tech Gods please weigh in Smile

First, is it Jetronic, Motronic or both that unplugging the battery overnight will clear any faults causing the Fi to adjust for a condition not there?

First diagnostic step might be to pull (and might as well replace while you are there) the spark plugs. Here is a spark plug chart:
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
on my personal site that shows various running conditions. Pay particular attention to lean...
(and interstingly enough, it is the number one hit on Google for "spark plug chart", go figure.)
Need 4 spark plugs, either Bosch (XR5DC?) or NGK (DR7EA?) will do it.

You'll need some dielectric grease for the plug boot/plug connection, and maybe a tiny, tiny, tiny bit of anti-seize though this is purely optional and its use in spark plugs is something people feel strongly about either using or not using.
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