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Winter Work
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Winter Work Reply with quote

Well, some pics to show progress for those that may be interested.

I started here.



Here's the main oil leak that I'm looking for the source of.


here's a little smaller one, I'm thinking that it's just the hoses leaking right behind on the top of the block. New hoses ordered to replace them.


Here's yesterdays valve check and adjustment day.


And today more of the backend off, ABS, battery, etc...


For those that may have noticed I remove the Ohlins temporarily so I can have it rebuilt this winter. Will probably send it out next week.
That's it so far.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much do you get paid to advertise that motorcycle lift? Laughing

I'd recommend http://www.aftershocks-suspension.com for having the Ohlins rebuilt.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Scott, nice project you got goin' there, and there's no hurry, I imagine it's gonna be a few months before the roads are rideable again. Got any heat in that garage?

Glad to see your getting the Ohlin's (that I couldn't use) rebuilt, hopefully it doesn't need much.

This picture makes me shudder with fear, these look like complicated beasts unitl you break it down to what you're actually working on.



That lift must make a big difference in the 'ol back pain. Wish I had one.

If it makes you feel any better, it's been cold as crap here, we have high's only in the 30's and lows in the 20's for the next week plus! But no snow, ..yet!
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
How much do you get paid to advertise that motorcycle lift? Laughing


I don't get paid anymore than Mystic Red does. Wink

Thanks for the Ohlins tip, I'll check into them. Ohlins priced me about $120 + parts, but that was last spring.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
Got any heat in that garage?


A little, I have a 40,000 btu LP heater. I heats enough that I can work with just a sweatshirt and no gloves. High today was only +2

Quote:
That lift must make a big difference in the 'ol back pain.


You bet it does. The only think that I may not like about it is that I may not be able to fill/bleed the front brakes while the front tire is clamped in the vise. I won't be able to turn the bars to get the master cyl level.

Quote:
If it makes you feel any better, it's been cold as crap here, we have high's only in the 30's and lows in the 20's for the next week plus! But no snow, ..yet!


If it was only that WARM here today.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:40 am    Post subject: Re: Winter Work Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Well, some pics to show progress for those that may be interested.

Here's the main oil leak that I'm looking for the source of.


Scott, anything from the weep hole at the back of the bell housing? If not I might think that the leak is just the rear of the oilpan. Mine leaked at the weep hole only when it was the clutch nut O ring





Scott_Anderson wrote:
here's a little smaller one, I'm thinking that it's just the hoses leaking right behind on the top of the block. New hoses ordered to replace them.


Maybe just a poor sealing job on the top edge of the timing cover?

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Here's yesterdays valve check and adjustment day.


Great idea with the zip-ties on the cam sprockets. Once you did that and retracted the cam chain tensioner (thanks FD) plus undid the bearing caps- did you have enough slack to pull the camshafts back and get to the buckets?
I am getting myself psyched up to do this myself- your pictures really help.
Thanks!
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dave n
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Joined: 13 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:42 pm    Post subject: cam removal Reply with quote

I like to remove the bolts from cam sprockets - let them hang ty-wrapped to cam chain - and then remove cams for bucket access. Mark cams unless you want to spend time checking p #s at reassembly.

The gears have locating pins so they can only go on one way.

A hex located on the cam shaft is useful for turning/holding with open end wrench - sometimes the valve springs will spin cam away from where you want it.

If you are removing buckets make notes as to what sizes are where for next time - if there is a next time. Not a high wear area.

As all ways - take your time - and keep clean.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 12:50 am    Post subject: Re: Winter Work Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Scott_Anderson wrote:
Well, some pics to show progress for those that may be interested.

Here's the main oil leak that I'm looking for the source of.


Scott, anything from the weep hole at the back of the bell housing? If not I might think that the leak is just the rear of the oilpan. Mine leaked at the weep hole only when it was the clutch nut O ring



Your probably right about the pan seal, I going in to do a spline lube anyway as I have no real documentation on when it was done last. I also going to replace that o-ring while I'm in there.

SugarhillCTD wrote:

Scott_Anderson wrote:
here's a little smaller one, I'm thinking that it's just the hoses leaking right behind on the top of the block. New hoses ordered to replace them.


Maybe just a poor sealing job on the top edge of the timing cover?


I think the oil leak here is from the oil return hose(from the airbox). It was swelled and real soft and loose on the fitting. The rear hose at the back of the block to the airbox was literally shot with holes in it so I don't think there was much crankcase ventilation.
SugarhillCTD wrote:

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Here's yesterdays valve check and adjustment day.


Great idea with the zip-ties on the cam sprockets. Once you did that and retracted the cam chain tensioner (thanks FD) plus undid the bearing caps- did you have enough slack to pull the camshafts back and get to the buckets?
I am getting myself psyched up to do this myself- your pictures really help.
Thanks!


In that picture I have already removed the cam sprockets from the cams so all I had to do was finish removing the bearing caps and the cams came right out.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the weather cooperated a little bit today. We had a 30deg warm up, up to the 20's so I did some more work.

I got the final drive and swing arm off, checked the drive shaft and u-joints, all look great.


Then to the transmission removal. It's a whole lot easier to remove with out the swing arm and final drive connected to it. Very Happy
Then I get into the clutch area. Looks like I had a pretty good leak from the o-ring.


When I pulled the clutch housing off of the output shaft the back side was dry and clean so I think I can safely say that the output shaft seal is good and it was just the hard o-ring. And it was hard as a rock.



I'm probably going to replace the friction disk as I was measuring it at .196-.198in thicknes, which is at the very bottom of the spec(.198-.218).
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott, I've got that same leak, a very slow weep from the weep hole. I'm putting off doing anything about it, but it bothers me...


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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should spend less time taking pictures and more time working on your bike.

(Just kidding. It's good to see you're getting things in order and the pics you post help give others the confidence to dive in. And in the end you'll have an up to spec Beemer to ride. Can't beat that.)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,

THAT'S MY LEAK, NOT YOURS. Stealing my leak, huh?

Looks far too familiar.



I thought the same thing until last summer when while I was riding with Saltcreek and I did a downshift-to-pass.
The revs came up much faster than my speed. Uh-oh.

Inquiring minds want to know........

Even us K-blockheads.

Good luck.

John
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
You should spend less time taking pictures and more time working on your bike.


Seems like the more time I spend taking the bike apart the more time I spend buying parts. Rolling Eyes

Hopefully I'll start assembling next week after I place another order. Sad

Flying Duck wrote:
And in the end you'll have an up to spec Beemer to ride. Can't beat that.


That's the best part of the whole deal. Very Happy Very Happy
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Steve,

THAT'S MY LEAK, NOT YOURS. Stealing my leak, huh?


John, if only he could repair it as easy as cut/paste. Instant fix. Laughing

Steve, if you can dig in and replace your drive shaft, getting in for the shaft seal is only a couple of steps more. (and a couple more tools.)and we all need more tools, right? Laughing
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Scott_Anderson
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update today.
Finally, re-assy started today. Very Happy Very Happy

Got all of the new water hoses put on today, seals in the rad cap.
Put the air intake/fuel delivery sys all put back together today with all new hoses, tubes, and o-rings.

So basically the front half of the bike is back together, minus the fairing and gas tank. Yee-haa.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, today I managed some time to work in the garage.

Got the clutch installed and transmission mounted. Clutch adjusted.

Swing arm and final drive put together and torqued. What a PIA to line all that up w/out droping bearing cups and such.
Not to mention remembering to put the new rubber boot on first. Mad Rolling Eyes As they say practice makes perfect.

Starter and alternator installed.

So far so good as far a left over parts, none. Very Happy But I'm not done yet either.

Next will be the lighter stuff, ABSII and brake lines, peg plates, battery and all the misc wiring in the process of all this.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I unexpectedly had to do my clutch job last summer, I was worried about the amount of time between disassembly and reassembly. Thought if too many days went by between the two that I would forget something.

Guess it is a matter of having done K wrench work before and/or multiple times.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Guess it is a matter of having done K wrench work before and/or multiple times.


It also helps me be a little more at ease with going cross country on the bike as I have become "intimate" with the bike and have a better understanding of what's where and how to get to it.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
It also helps me be a little more at ease with going cross country on the bike as I have become "intimate" with the bike and have a better understanding of what's where and how to get to it.


I feel the same way.

And while I do not get any enjoyment out of off-season bike repairs & maintenance, having a fairly good idea of what goes where and how the parts should function does give me a lot more confidence to travel farther from home.
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,
When you put the clutch back in did you torque, back off and angle set the clutch nut? I was wondering if it can just simply be torqued to value and called good.

Wish I was as far along. Still waiting on parts from Chicago BMW.
Jeff
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