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Symtec Grip Heaters
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:20 pm    Post subject: Symtec Grip Heaters Reply with quote

I have on order some Symtec grip heaters (from New Enough) that have been recommended on this site and a few others. There are numerous write-ups about these, but I had to cobble together several sources for a complete picture and thought I'd group them all together here, along with my experience with them.

I'm also installing a heated grip relay kit from Eastern Beaver, who also recommends the Symtec heated grips as well.

First a few links to others write-ups and info.

Symtec heated grip page:
http://www.symtec-inc.com/Complete-Motorcycle-Hand-Warmer-Kit-w-Round-Rocker-Switch_p_89.html

Duck's installation write up:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/heatedgrips/symtecgrips.htm\

Eastern Beaver's heated grip relay:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Heated_Grips/body_heated_grips.html

Eastern Beaver's installation write up:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Heated_Grips/Install/body_install.html

A few weeks ago I mistakenly wrote, "BTW, I don't plan on heated grips anytime soon", then the winter weather from hell has settled on us and my hands are freezing! I've got an electric vest that does a great job of keeping the torso toasty, but it's not helping the exposed hands one bit. So....heated grips it is. I considered heated gloves, but they are expensive, bulky and if you don't have them with you, you’re SOL. So, heated grips seemed more practical and can be used anytime of year when you might not think to bring the heated gloves.

I should be getting the heaters tomorrow and hopefully the relay kit sometime next week. Then I'll do a follow up on installation and performance later.

Here's to warm digits!
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep us posted how it goes there Steve, I'm considering some for the '97 as it doesn't have them now, and I love them on the '95.
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Steve,
I disagree. I rode from El Paso to Tucson (13 years ago) on Harriet's '95 R100RT with chaps, my heated vest and the heated grips which came on the bike. I didn't bring my heated gloves. West of Las Cruces the temperature dropped from the high 30's into the mid 20's with wind and a few snow flurries. My torso was warm and my legs were ok as were my palms, but the backs of my hands were freezing. The heated grips worked fine, but my hands still froze. Heated gloves are the way to go. Just REMEMBER TO BRING THEM if the temperature is supposed to be low. All my bikes now have 700 watt alternators and heated grips, but for temperatures in the 30's and below, heated gloves are the only answer.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can go both ways Phil,

I have heated gloves but they don't heat the palm side of your hands, so when I'm riding the '97 my hands still get cold on the bottom side.
And as you both have seen I don't have a lot of body mass for keeping my extremities warm.
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:

And as you both have seen I don't have a lot of body mass for keeping my extremities warm.


Hi, Scott,
If I remember correctly, Cathy had a couple of lobsters left over after we finished eating. And I know there was spaghetti, sauce, and garlic bread left over after that meal, too. Of course, if you ate it all, you might end up looking like me!! (My description of me is short, fat, with a beard.)
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll straddle the fence here- BOTH!

This past fall when unusual (no snow) weather allowed me to ride into early December I was in 25F temperatures and had both the grip heaters and heated gloves on high for a couple of hours in the morning. Those along with the heated jacket liner made for a very comfortable ride at COLD temps.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I won't be doing a lot of riding in the 30's, mostly 40's and maybe some higher 30's, if it's much below that, I'm in the truck. But I agree that heated gloves would be better in extreme cold (with heated grips). I also don't like big thick gloves, I feel I can't operate the controls as well.
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JerseyJohn
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Joined: 31 Dec 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't like the thick gloves you could always try the glove liners. I have a set of these and also the T5 gloves (thicker) and the liners did me well on a 25 degree day last year when someone was nice enough to swip my old thicker cloves off the bike. They are kinda like wearing mechanix gloves.

http://www.gerbing.com/Products/Gloves/liner.html
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are cool and reasonably priced, even comes with the wiring harness in case you don't have any of their other clothing to plug into.

Those might be step two if the grips aren't enough.

Thanks for the link.
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Saltcreek
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find that down to a certain point, probably mid thirties, I'm warmest in my summer gloves with the grips on. They heat up faster than my winter gloves.
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Part A has arrived:



Now all I need is the Eastern Beaver relay kit and the surgery will begin.

Side question from the electrically challenged, how many watts can I pull from the 50 amp alternator before the battery charging is compromised? I am now running 50 watt fog/driving lights, possibly a 36 watt heated vest and am adding grip heaters that can draw 20 watts, plus I usually run the headlight on high beam during the day. At what point do I need to be concerned about draining the battery?
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,

The 50 amp alternator is putting out 600 watts, so do your subtraction from there.

50 watt driving/fog lights (x2?) 100w
heated vest 36w
grip heaters 20w
headlight high beam (60?100?) 100w

you aren't 1/2 way there yet.

got to add in ignition , fuel pump, gauge lights and any other accessories- but unless you are adding on something with big draw, you are good to go. IMHO.

John
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll be fine.

I run the following on my K11000RS:
100W high beam (normal is 60)
Two 55W driving lights
Heated grips on high
Synergy heated jacket liner
Heated boot insoles (What a Godsend!)

It's got a voltmeter and the voltage is right at 14.1 volts at higher than idle revs, just where it should be.


(My bike actually draws 20W more on low beam with the 90W low beam and 2 70W Catz lights going.)
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:

Now all I need is the Eastern Beaver relay kit and the surgery will begin.


Why do you need a relay kit? If you wire it to the factory heated grip power connection (per my instructions) the relay and fuse are already taken care of.
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mnb
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. Heated grips supplements, but does not replace heated gloves. But I suppose that depends on how cold it is when you ride. If it's 50 out, grips is fine. Much lower than that... 45, 40, definitely in the 30s, you'll really be wanting heated gloves.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duck wrote:

Quote:
Why do you need a relay kit? If you wire it to the factory heated grip power connection (per my instructions) the relay and fuse are already taken care of.


Hmmm, didn't really realize that. I had read on another site (different bike) that Eastern Beaver had a relay kit and they reccomended it. Knowing how good his stuff is, I just saw it and thought it would be good way to hook it up. Kind of forgot about the stock wiring set up......

It's on it's way now and I've paid for it. Should I go ahead and use it, or just hook up to the stock wiring? Would his kit be better? Thicker wires and such?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just power the grips from the factory wiring. Less of a project, one less thing to go wrong and certainly adequate for the current involved.

Nothing wrong with Jim's kits though. Keep it as a spare for the next time you want to add something electrimical to your bike.
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Duck, I think I'll head that route.

I'll be using the supplied rocker switch that came with the heaters as I have used up my last BMW switch blank for the Catz lights. I suppose this switch would hook up the same as the BMW switch in your diagram, Hi, Low, middle power etc?
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, part "B" arrived. This is the heated grip relay kit from Eastern Beaver (and some extra posi-taps).







I thought for awhile about Duck's suggestions above to just use the factory grip wiring and decided to use the kit from EB anyway since I had ordered it and figured I might as well use it.

Removed the throttle meisters, then I removed the grips. I had just put new Pro Grips 699's on last year and wanted to re-use them. A little compressed air shot up under the ends and they blew up and pulled right off. Then I cleaned up the throttle sleeve and clutch side of the handle bar with rubbing alcohol.

As per Duck's suggestion I wrapped the clutch side metal bar with electrical tape to limit the heat sink effect.

The throttle sleeve side:



Then I applied the heating elements which have a sticky backing. The clutch side with element applied.



I used some shrink tubing as per EB's suggeston right at the end where the wires come out from the element to prevent them from bending and weakening. Then I used hair spray to lubricate the grips and slid them back on. Started routing the wires to the switch, being careful to leave a slack loop at the throtte side to allow for throttle rotation.



I pulled the neccesary body work, the tank and the brains to disconnect the battery, then I hooked up the relay kit to the usual starter terminal in the black box, ground, and the lines to the switch. I used the rocker switch that came with the grip heater kit as I've used up my last switch blank with the Catz lights switch. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the dash pad and snapped it in. I think it looks pretty good and almost OEM. I have bar backs on, thus the funky key location and BMW roundel to cover the old keyhole.



Got it all hooked up and then re-connected the battery for a test run. Ignition on, clicked the switch to "Hi" and waited a minute or so.....nothing, no heat.

Deep breath, check all the connections, think a bit...check the fuse in the relay kit, it's blown! Why?? More investigation reveals the issue. The switch connectors that came with the heated grip kit use a bunch of spade connectors and piggy backs, quite a Christmas tree of connectors. Turns out the lowest connector was touching the handlebar clamp, shorting it out.



So I pulled them all off and combined the wires together, crimped them into new connectors and then shrink wrapped them right up onto the connectors. Much cleaner and more compact.



Put things back again, ignition on, switch on "Hi', and yes! Heat on both grips!

Put the tank back on, panels , etc. and went for a ride.

Awesome! These things crank out the heat. It's actually not too cold here today, 52F (11C), but still a bit chilly. On high they got too warm after about 10 minutes, but clicking them down to low kept them nice and warm, like holding a hot mug of coffee. I only had my summer gel mesh gloves on that have thin leather on the fingers.

So, I still need to try them out in the real cold, but so far I am stoked.

The kit cost $48 with shipping and EB's relay kit was just under $30, so all togther about $80 and a few hours (I'm slow with electrical stuff) and my bike has heated grips!

Two warm thumbs up!
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:08 am    Post subject: heated grips Reply with quote

Good job, Steve! Thanks for the pix, too. You'll enjoy those heated grips.
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