K11 Owners Group

mrsevendog · Big Brick Rider Joined: 28 Apr 2007 Posts: 65

I can't find Flying Ducks cruise control install link for the K11rs can anyone point me to it?Thanks

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:38 pm Post subject:

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/k11cruise/k11cruiseInstall.shtml

A few things to note. That was my first one. Since then:

1) The switch settings in that write-up for #1 and #2 are reversed. (I've emailed IBMWR several times to update it, they haven't and I give up.)

2) The VRC is not needed. Put the vacuum check valve (which IS needed) as close to the TBs as is practical.

3) Mount the servo under the seat. For ABS I, just slide the bar in by the ABS brain. For ABS II, just leave it loose under the seat - that's what I did on my RS. The cable is the perfect length to run up the right side of the bike, across the top of the radiator and then down to the throttle linkage.

4) If you have an ABS II bike, the coil wires are the same color. Hook up a voltmeter in AC mode. The one the varies and registers between 6-9 volts when you rev the engine is the one you want ot tap the blue wire into.

5) The blue wire CAN be cut, just make sure you keep the filter (resistor) under the red tag in the blue wire somewhere.

6) Get some 2" aluminum bar stock fomr the hardware store for mounting the control pad. When you put a right angle in it, pound it with a hammer while bending it. Aliminum is brittle and will fail if you just try to bend it at a right angle.

7) Don't put beans up your nose. Laughing

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

mrsevendog · Big Brick Rider Joined: 28 Apr 2007 Posts: 65

Thanks Duck.I have ABS1 on the bike.I don't understand why I can't stick beans up my nose there's plenty of room for em.

mnb · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:23 pm Post subject:

Sounds even easier to install now that building a VRC isn't required.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to pulling off the throttle lock button I installed years ago that has prevented the throttle from snapping back to idle when released. I had to tighten it enough to keep it from slipping when engaged and that puts pressure on the friction ring even when not engaged. This problem will vanish once I upgrade to the cruise control Smile

_________________
M N B
1997 BMW K1100LT ABS Special Edition
2003 Husqvarna TE610e
2007 Harley Davidson Road King
2009 BMW F800GS
2011 Husqvarna TE310
2014 Ducati Multistrada Pikes Peak MNB Edition

Jim · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:25 pm Post subject:

4) If you have an ABS II bike, the coil wires are the same color. Hook up a voltmeter in AC mode. The one the varies and registers between 6-9 volts when you rev the engine is the one you want ot tap the blue wire into.

The coil wires are the same color - but not the same size. You want to use the larger of the two - no voltmeter required.

6) Get some 2" aluminum bar stock fomr the hardware store for mounting the control pad. When you put a right angle in it, pound it with a hammer while bending it. Aliminum is brittle and will fail if you just try to bend it at a right angle.

Buy a piece of aluminum angle - you won't have to bend it...
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:37 pm Post subject:

I used a small piece of stainless steel instead of aluminum. I has some leftover from another project. Worked just a good.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:18 pm Post subject:

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:55 pm Post subject:

RobWheatley · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:04 am Post subject:

Hi All
Im fitting my cruise control and have seen on here in a few post that it can be connected to the speed sensor as well as the tach (coil) does anyone know what colour wire to connect it to please?
Also is there a way of connecting it to the ctutch switch too?

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

miKeinWIs · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:21 am Post subject: Tach wire

Rob,
Tach/coil wire is green- tap right by the rear coil.
Don't know about speed sensor, if there is one. Duck may post the difinitive info.

I thought about a clutch lock out as my car has it--but I don't think there is a lock out there. May be wrong. As it turns out, no real reason for it as a tap on either brake shuts it all down.

that's the quick answer. More to come from experts I'm sure.

Good luck
Mike
_________________
'97 K1100LT
Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:24 am Post subject:

RobWheatley · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:38 am Post subject:

Hi Duck
Is it ok to do that at the connector behind the side panel, Loom side so i can remove the sensor if needed.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:52 am Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:11 pm Post subject:

Hmmm.... I did it the other way so the bike could go back to stock and have the wiring harness unharmed.

It really doesn't matter though. The electrons don't know which side of the connector they're on.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

RobWheatley · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject:

Well its fitted and connected (not the speed sensor yet) and seems to work OK, it wont engage below 40mph and there is a lag between pressing set and it taking over, it might be because I took the vac connection from only one of the throttle bodies, I need to get some T's and do it from all 4 I think.
I looked for the fuel pressure regulator vac line and could not find it (the fuel pressure regulator that is) Im wondering if it has been removed by a PO, I am right in thinking it should be fitted with one.
As soon as I dab the brake it disengages and it is very gentle when pressing resume, maybe a bit too gentle.
Might be going on a ride tomorrow so will see how it performs then.

Thanks for the info.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:35 pm Post subject:

It only needs to be hooked up to one throttlebody.

4 valve Ks don't have a FPR vacuum hose.

You can change the DIP switch settings to a medium powered vehicle and it will pull harder but be more jerky. I think the high powered vehicle setting is a good for an RS and medium powered vehicle for an LT.

Did you install a vacuum check valve in the vacuum hose to the servo?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

RobWheatley · Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:41 pm Post subject:

Thanks for that Duck, was looking for ages.

Yes I put a vacuum check valve in, nearest place to get one was the local pet store, will get a proper one later.

I will change the dip switches to medium power and see how that is.

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.