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Oil Change

 
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endoman100
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 338
Location: Hastings Fl.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:57 pm    Post subject: Oil Change Reply with quote

I have used the BMW 20w 50 synthetic for my last two oil changes, I was wondering if I could use castral 20w 50 synthetic oil from advance auto.
does the car/bike thing really matter. and what do you use.
I have a 1993 K1100rs with over 100,000 miles and it's running strong.
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owrstrich
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 2566
Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 1993 motobricks are pennies to maintain and are smooth as synthetic ice aints they there endoman100...

i use castrol 20 w 50 dino in the indestructible bugeye motobrick...

when it gets below the bologna ring i put a whole gallon in it... then im good until o t g body paints himself...



j o
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Last edited by owrstrich on Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shell SYNTHETIC Rotella T. 5-40 I think.

Mobil 1 15-50

Awesome oils, cheap at Wal-Mart.
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Endoman,
I've used Mobil 1 15w50 for years and a couple of hundred thousand miles on my K1100LT's and K75's. This is the "car" oil, not the higher priced 20w50 "motorcycle" oil. I buy it at Wal-mart in the 5 qt. bottle. I use the normal synthetic, not the "extended" drain interval oil, because the Wal-mart I frequent never has the gold-top 15w50 in stock in the 5-qt. bottles.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No kidding. My Wal-Mart NEVER has the Mobil 1 in stock.

The Synthetic Rotella T is also a great oil good for 10k intervals and that seems to be in stock more often, though not always, so that's what I've been using of late.
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94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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sdaniel
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Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 156
Location: Little Elm, TX

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Not be a rebuttal, but I thought oil was changed because of contamination. It never looses it viscosity, it just gets contaminated.

My question is where did the 10K # and thought process come from.

I know some fleet programs never drain their oil, just the filter and then replace the 1 qt lost during filter replacement.

Thanks,
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Though viscosity breakdown is not as great in dino oil as it used to be it does still occur. And synths are more resistant.

Synthetic oils suspend contaminants better, hence a longer change interval. 10k is easy to remember.

Synthetics are easier on the engine for cold starts too.

In some recent stuff I've been reading, you can go with a lower viscosity when running synth with the results being better mileage and higher hp output. Based on this I'm going to try runing the Mobil 1 0-30 in my RS when I change the oil this winter.

I almost forgot: Oh, goody, an oil thread.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sdaniel wrote:
.....never drain their oil, just the filter and then replace the 1 qt lost during filter replacement.


Unfortunately that's not possible with the K-bikes as you will drain the pan when you remove the filter cover to get at the filter in the first place. Wink

Unless you would pour back in what you take out. Confused
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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duckbubbles
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Joined: 01 Jun 2006
Posts: 361
Location: Austin, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil Marvin wrote:
Hi, Endoman,
I've used Mobil 1 15w50 for years and a couple of hundred thousand miles on my K1100LT's and K75's. This is the "car" oil, not the higher priced 20w50 "motorcycle" oil. I buy it at Wal-mart in the 5 qt. bottle. I use the normal synthetic, not the "extended" drain interval oil, because the Wal-mart I frequent never has the gold-top 15w50 in stock in the 5-qt. bottles.
Our K engines are just about as close to a "car" engine as any motorcycle since the Munch Mammoth. Why not use "car" oil?

Frank
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endoman100
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Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 338
Location: Hastings Fl.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

duckbubbles wrote:
Phil Marvin wrote:
Hi, Endoman,
I've used Mobil 1 15w50 for years and a couple of hundred thousand miles on my K1100LT's and K75's. This is the "car" oil, not the higher priced 20w50 "motorcycle" oil. I buy it at Wal-mart in the 5 qt. bottle. I use the normal synthetic, not the "extended" drain interval oil, because the Wal-mart I frequent never has the gold-top 15w50 in stock in the 5-qt. bottles.
Our K engines are just about as close to a "car" engine as any motorcycle since the Munch Mammoth. Why not use "car" oil?

Frank


Worried about viscocity breakdown with the heat of the engine, or should I even worry about it??
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supercat1
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Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Though viscosity breakdown is not as great in dino oil as it used to be it does still occur. And synths are more resistant.

Synthetic oils suspend contaminants better, hence a longer change interval. 10k is easy to remember.

Synthetics are easier on the engine for cold starts too.

In some recent stuff I've been reading, you can go with a lower viscosity when running synth with the results being better mileage and higher hp output. Based on this I'm going to try runing the Mobil 1 0-30 in my RS when I change the oil this winter.

I almost forgot: Oh, goody, an oil thread.


i look forward to hearing about how your 0-30 turns out. always looking for a way to bump that mpg. Wink
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bmwmick
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Joined: 07 Jun 2003
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Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Though viscosity breakdown is not as great in dino oil as it used to be it does still occur. And synths are more resistant.

Based on this I'm going to try runing the Mobil 1 0-30 in my RS when I change the oil this winter.




Drake,
I would stay away from any of the 0-30 oils including Mobil 1. They label them 'energy conserving ' and you do NOT want that in your bikes. The 15-50 has almost as much of the good stuff (ZDDP) as the MC only oil. They do NOT label the 15-50 as energy conserving because the thicker spec oils are not regulated like the thinner auto oils.

Phil,
The Gold cap (extended performance) 15-50 was discontinued in May. Our WalMart usually has 6 or more 5 Gallon jugs of 15-50 Silver cap for $22.
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'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Mick,
I seldom have problems buying Mobil 1 15w50 at Wal-Mart. I just haven't seen the gold cap "extended performance" for a year or two. It sounds as if I won't see it again, either!
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Phil Marvin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Endoman,
As I recall, you live in Jacksonville, FL. It gets warm there. I live in El Paso, TX, and Mick McKinnon lives in Tucson, AZ. It gets HOT here. We both use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic. I don't know what Mick's oil change interval is, but I do it once a year or at 10k miles, whichever comes first. I've read a number of reports from those who have had their oil tested after 7500 or 10k miles of use, and invariably the test results are the oil didn't need to be changed; it was still good for many thousands more miles. That's why I picked 10k miles. Plus, it's easy to remember when to do it!
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endoman100
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Joined: 26 Jan 2009
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Location: Hastings Fl.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanx for the input Very Happy Very Happy
looks like i'm going with the Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic.
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chrisk1100rs
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2008
Posts: 63
Location: Isle of Man

PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 12:07 pm    Post subject: oil Reply with quote

My bike has run on car oil since new has been maintained by BMW main dealer and is now 13 years old and has only ever had Castrol in it

ChrisK1100RS
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once a year here too.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish I could.

If I ran a year on one oil change, the engine would burn it all plus....
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil Marvin wrote:
Hi, Mick,
I seldom have problems buying Mobil 1 15w50 at Wal-Mart. I just haven't seen the gold cap "extended performance" for a year or two. It sounds as if I won't see it again, either!


Phil, I just tonight saw someone with 5 bottles of just that oil at the checkout line. It was a farm/country store.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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