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Clutch replacemsnt

 
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:03 pm    Post subject: Clutch replacemsnt Reply with quote

I'm part way through tearing my '95 LT down to replace the clutch (again!!- long story).
I seem to remember seeing some info on the OG site that gave step-by-steps. I had printed it off before, but must have lost it in moving.
Any ideas where to find it? I've tried 'search', but nothing seems to turn up.
I'm mostly concerned about getting the reassembly order correct to save mistakes. I know, I should have been taking notes. I don't trust the Clymer "Book of Lies". It cost me a lot of time before and I had to learn a whole mess of new swear words.
Does anyone know where to look? I have checked the factory shop manual files and find them too vague in a lot of cases.
The ABS II bikes are sure a lot more akward to work on.

Don
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Don,
I wish I could help or at least give (im)moral support, but I'm 1500 miles (2500 km) away! Best of luck!
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What part do you need help with?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:49 pm    Post subject: Clutch replacement Reply with quote

I'm looking for a bit more detailed directions on re assembly. I remember being mislead by the Clymer manual on the drive shaft housing and drive shaft. I wasted a lot of time trying to do it their way. I guess I'm just worried about missing a step and having to double back.
Wasn't there something in the OG Tech? Perhaps in the archives? I seem to recall mention that a lot of the old material was lost.
I had printed the info a few years ago but lost track of it. I didn't expect to be doing the job again.
I knew I should have been making notes.

Don
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What parts are you replacing?

Just the clutch plate? IMO that's all you really need if it's slipping.

Clutch plate and pressure plates?

The big aluminum clutch housing?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:27 pm    Post subject: Clutch replacement Reply with quote

Hi Drake,

I'm not sure what went wrong. I have a housing from my '85 KRS if, in the outside chance, I need major parts.
No evidence of a leak. I changed the rear main two years ago. It had leaked when a previous owner apparently way overfilled the sump.
I've purchased a new disc, pressure plate and o-ring for the job.
The changeout of the clutch assemble doesn't worry me, it's the long road back to reassembly that I'm apprehensive about.

Don
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't bother with the O-ring since you put a new one in only two years ago. If you do then there's a two step to torque-loosen-retorque the main nut. Don't know the exact numbers of the top of my head.

The important thing is to mark the pressure plates to make sure they're reassembled in the same rotational orientation. They're supposedly balanced as a pair at the factory but are listed as separate parts on the parts fiche which doesn't make sense to me.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 2:45 pm    Post subject: Clutch replacement Reply with quote

I'm not worried about marking the assembly to keep balance. The marks from last time should still be there.
I haven't ruled out a problem with the one-trip nut being a factor. I had to remove it because I left out the thrust washer when I was re-assembling the clutch assembly. Although, if it was going to fail, I would have thought it wouldn't have taken over a year. Turned out that I had another new one on hand (D'Oh).
I have the O ring on hand. I might as well us it.
My biggest concern is still the proper sequence to replace the pile of parts I have and the correct way to install the drive housing boot and shaft. I wasted a lot of time by following the Clymer manual last time.

Don
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I know these bikes pretty well I just have a big pile of bolts and know where everything goes and how to reassemble.

When I was new to Ks, I'd label wires I disconnected and line the parts up in a row in the garage with their hardware in the order that I removed them. Then just go back up the row to reinstall. I only use a torque wrench on the clutch nut and the swing arm/final drive pivots. The rest of them I just tighten good and tight.

I've never used a manual except to get the torgue values.

On the final drive put the left side one in first and then the right side one.

My unofficial thoughts on drive shaft phasing:
http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/driveshaft/phasing.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: clutch replacement Reply with quote

I found the cause of my clutch slipping problem last night when I got the transmission out. The piece that acts as a pressure plate (not the spring plate that actually moves the mechanism) had partially disintegrated. Not the cast part, but the blueish spring-steel 'strap' that runs around the circumference of the plate. Sorry, I don't have my exploded diagram to refer to here (at work), but it's not the disc or the (thin, steel)pressure plate. I found three pieces at the bottom of the 'bell' housing. I still have about an inch of steel to locate before I reassemble the clutch. Fortunately, I have an old piece from my '85 that is the same part number and in perfect shape. The lube in the splines is still fresh and no signs of oil leaking.
Weird. Never heard of this happening before. I can't see what would have caused it to fail.
I'll keep the pieces and try to photograph and post them here later.

Don
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you're saying that hoop behind the clutch spring disintegrated? That IS weird.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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View user's profile Send private message
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