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Crankcase breather clean-out

 
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Turbine
Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Location: South Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:49 am    Post subject: Crankcase breather clean-out Reply with quote

Crankcase breather clean-out.
Has anybody done the above.
I have a copy of the above job done dated January 24-2006 with pictures.
I have just replaced all fuel lines & noticed the orange fluid coming from the vent line on the air cleaner box. I am interested in cleaning & also bypassing that area all together as discussed on this A1 site also.

Have also replaced the front disc pins/washers & circlips.
With 89,ooo klm's they were gone.

Also on the engine block at the front is a vent connection.My connection has another outlet with a rubber plug,the same as the injector rail but with a bigger inlet side on it.
I have not found any indication on any outlet to tell me it's purpose.
It's could be a blow off outlet?
Any feed back would be geat.Thank you all
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max
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 309
Location: NZ

PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The crankcase breather seems to be a hold-over from the first 4V engine on the K1, the little tank-thing in the top of the airbox is a cyclonic oil separator... but the rate of gas flow through it is too low to work IMHO, and even then BMW filled it with some sort of sponge so the cyclonic effect was totally undermined. Mine was full of crumbling sponge and oil-condensation milky-white goo.

From this you get the main hoses:
1) the one from the breather (back corner of the block, by the TPS) that goes through the airbox wall and goes to the top of the separation "tank"... This one is the main inlet.

2) the large one from the front of the top half of the airbox, which goes to the "rail" connecting the airbox side of the throttle bodies - this is the main outlet

3) the small one from the front of the top half of the airbox, which goes the fitting at the front of the block over the camchain cover - this is the "oil return"

The other little connection on the fitting at the camchain cover is for the US emissions controls bikes - rather than using a charcoal cannister to capture the evaporation hydrocarbons from the tank, BMW direct them into the crankcase and assume they'll get burnt on start-up.

So the whole thing is a bit of a kludge... In my case, after having a clutch oil leak that remained even after a replacement seal, I've made the system into more of one paralelling what you'd have on a car. The rail to the throttle bodies remains, but only to take over-pressure blow-out gas from a vacuum no-return valve from a BMW E36 car - if the crankcase gets pressurised, it vents out thru the valve.
The rest of the system is that the crankcase usually sees full engine vacuum, via having added another "rail" across the throttle balancing bleeders (does not affect the tuning after balancing the throttle bodies) and connecting that to the fitting on the camchain cover... This gives the crankcase full vacuum at idle, and as the throttles open, the vacuum stabilizes back to what the old system would have given.

Under this approach I get
- no smoke on acceleration
- no smoke at all
- no more clutch leaks
- enough crankcase vacuum to retain the filler plug (from suction) at idle, not pressure as I had before
- not having to buy new hoses, only new part was E36 NRV from a wrecker.

BTW, KRS is at 182000kms now, original engine.

Does this help? Shocked

Max
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Turbine
Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Location: South Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Max
I have smoke on acceleration & a clutch leak that will not go away please help same more.
Up to - So the whole thing is a bit of a kludge you had me than I do not understand what you have done.
What do I have to do to help to understand what you have done?
What is a E36 NRV & were do I postion it?

Having just just put that BMW e36 vacuum non return valve in Goole images it has come up with a E36 328i Air Pump F Vacuum Control set spare parts brake done. 11611312737 is a valve whick looks like it goes in line or is it the valve 11611312737.
Hope to here from you when you can?
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

max Can you describe a bit more detailed what is your modification about?
As far as I understand you did:
- you put one way valve on connection between airbox and throttle bodies rail,
- left the crankcase breather unchanged
and:
- connected cam chain cover to throttle bodies with rail (how?)
What with the connection on airbox originally connected to cam chain cover?

Best regards,
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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max
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 309
Location: NZ

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK

1) the NRV is the vacuum non-return valve from an E36 320i Beemer car - as used in the brake booster ... see item 10, "CHECK VALVE SUPPORT" in

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CB22&mospid=47441&btnr=34_0387&hg=34&fg=25

2) the existing breather rail on the back of the throttles is taken off, the end blanking plug taken from down by the TPS and put on the middle (angled) outlet and then the rail can be fed from the TPS end,

3) I cut & sleeved the old hose from the crankcase (down by the TPS) until I could get the crankcase feeding the old rail thru the 90-degree-bent NRV... make it so that any positive pressure in the crankcase blows out into the rail. I did have to turn my outlet pipe from the crankcase a little, but it's only a press-in sleeve. You can get all this lined up & finished with the airbox out... there's no more hoses to go back on afterwards.

4) I **created** a new, second rail on the FRONT of the throttle bodies (mine is cable-tied to the injector fuel rail). At one end it goes to the LARGE feed nipple on the crankcase inlet at the camchain cover - at the other end it's plugged (with an old instrument backlight bulb from the instrument cluster, that sets it as about 10mm internal diameter pipe). From this rail I have small runner pipes connecting to all the throttle body balancing take-off tubes - the ones that are usually plugged.

This gives a balance pipe across all the throttle bodies (as per the K1200 design) and also gives access to full engine vacuum at idle (the "suction area" between the bottom of the throttle butterflys and the intake valves). Since there shouldn't be many ways for air to enter the crankcase, the idle speed & mixture is OK - we're not bypassing the throttles, just putting a vacuum on a "closed" space.

I'll try to get some photos some time, but I can't promise when - got leaking forks to settle and had some health issues so on doctors' orders not to push it at the moment!

Cheers

Max
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello!
max I would like to back to the topic of your modification. I have problem with oil consumption - spark plug getting sticky :/. So I want to try some other solutions before ripping of cylinder head. Are you able to take photos or make a diagram?

Best regards,
Rafal
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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max
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 309
Location: NZ

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rafal

Sorry I haven't been posting any pics yet - it's winter here, too cold to do a full strip-down (RS fairing both sides, airbox) and also the bike is my daily commute too... I'll try to work something out as a diagram if I can.

With your oil problem, I'd suggest at least take the inlet headers off the throttle bodies & check for oil / sludge around the butterflys too... if the oil is coming in before the cylinders, then you'll see it there. Other than that, it's either in thru the valve seals or the rings (which doesn't mean bad rings - remember on the 1100s they made the rings different so the cylinders didn't end up with a vacuum on stopping, and sucking lots of oil into the cylinders on starting up off the sidestand - the problem that gave BMW big PR problems with the original K100s, they looked broken, clouds of oily smoke on starting, even when new).

Max
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