K11 Owners Group

[RAL88]

When I got my bike it had a Works Performance DRS short shock. I am not sure if the previous owner had adjusted the fork height in the triple tree to account for the shorter height in the rear. Does anyone have an idea of what I should lower the front to.

Thanks,

Rich
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Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R

[Scott_Anderson]

You wanting to "lower" the front more or restore it to original height.
Both my bikes have the top of the fork stansion even with the top of the upper clamp.
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Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Shoganai]

I'll take a pic in the morning and post it here of OEM fork tube placement.

Work of advice: lowering the forks in the triple clap screws with the handling in negitive way. FWIW BTDT and don't recommend it.
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki

[Beachcomber]

Hi Rich,

Whilst developing the RAM shox, I took the opportunity to order a 25mm shorter version for my Race Rep development.

I think what you are referring to is restoring the static geometry of the bike when you "lower" the forks.

I have spent MANY hours with the bikes on the workbench taking measurements whilst he;ping to develop the RAM shox.

One thing is perfectly clear, no two bikes appear to be the same!

I have 6 K100's and 1 x K11.

Even if you discount the differing tyre diameters the measurements [ vertical ] from a given datum point differ from bike to bike by as much as 1" or more. Needless to say with a 150 lbs rider aboard, the ride height will be different to a 280 lbs rider.

In other words, the initial static geometry of the bike is a compromise.

Better to understand what the various changes have on riding style.

On my Race Rep project with a 25mm shorter rear shock, my fork tubes are 15mm higher in the triple trees. That only gives me a baseline for experiment.

Good luck sorting it out, I think the bottom line is see what works best for you!

TJ

Mason's the right guy for this - where are you Bud?
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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's

[Shoganai]

Beachcomber, please tell me more about "static geometry"

Thank you
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki

[Beachcomber]

Shoganai

When a bike is designed, the design team will have a good idea how they want the bike to handle - turn in sharp, be stable on long bends, etc., etc.

The difference between an R6 and a K11 in fact!

You will see a great variety of headstock angles, rake, trail on different bikes - all to do with what their target riding group is.

A good example of this is to look at a road bike and then a Speedway [ short track? ] head angle. The Speedway bikes forks are closer to vertical.

Some Rice Rockets [ and Dukes ] now have adjustable head angle.

However to take advantage of ANY of the foregoing you need to really know what you want. Even some GP and WSB riders can't set up their own bikes and even then - they can get it wrong!

I think in our "real world" where we ride at maybe 6 -7 /10ths, it really doesn't matter a great deal if the fork tops are flush, 10mm or 15mm.

As long as you get back to the manufacturers design parameters [ lower the back then lower the front ] that's a good place to start from.

TJ
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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's

[Shoganai]

Thanks.

I understand more.

I'm short, so when I bought the bike, I had the triple clamp lowered and a shortened Works shock put on. Rode it for 100,000 miles like that. Then some things happened and I replaced the Works with an Olins and the triple clamp was brought back to OEM.

The most amazing thing happened!!

Suddenly it no longer 'flopped over' in turns and became linear, smooth and predictable.

Is that an example of what you are talking about, static geometry?
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki

[Beachcomber]

Exactly so - the "flop over" syndrome you descibe is a definite advantage with Sports riders who have to fight the bike into a bend and to change direction - me I'll never even get close to requiring that sort of steering!

Actually the "flop over" is usually described as "turn in" - usually sharper turn in.

It's also related to wheelbase, tyre sizes, etc.

Just like a car, you can tune your bike exactly to your tastes.

With my Race Rep - the geometry is now exactly back to factory specs - just 1" lower all round! That gives me a base to work from.

TJ
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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's

[RAL88]

This is what I was wondering. The rear of the bike got lowered an inch from what it was originally by putting the shorter shock on but the front was not lowered. I would expect that this would take it out of the original factory geometry. I think I will try lowering the front a little and see what I feel.

Thanks,

Rich
_________________
Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R