K11 Owners Group

[Saltcreek]

I've read the various directions for this procedure but down in the cold barn I can't seem to pull the box apart. Presumably there's a trick. Also, Duck, I'm short one of the spring clamps. Have any?
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Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

[Flying Duck]

Lift the top up as much as you can - which isn't much. Then wiggle the airfilter out. There's no lip on the top back of the air filter which makes it a little easier than if there were.

How many clips do you have now? Yes, I have spares.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Saltcreek]

Hi Duck, I figured it out right after posting. It's amazing how obvious a thing is after you've done it. I have two clips, it was missing the front one so I moved a back to the front for now. I'm putting together a list of odds and ends I need and I'll run it by you.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

[RobBowker]

This is intended for anyone who has never removed an air filter from a K bike with an LT fairing. In the three years I have had the bike I have been gradually getting round to all the service items. With little pre-history apart from ticks on a checklist and vague "service completed" comments, I haven't known the conditions of things like plugs, coolant or... air filter until I pulled them out and had a look. For obvious reasons, the air filter was last on the list (I replaced the good-as-new coolant when I fixed the oil/water pump leak a few months ago. I looked far and wide for reference - the procedure being complicated by the LT's fairing - and found very little explicit instructions. Yet again, Clymer isn't much help. So here's my contribution:

1] Remove right and left side panels



2] Remove right engine bar if fitted




3] Remove BOTH kneepads - 2 screws and an allen bolt each side (you'll be raising the tank shortly).



4] Remove RIGHT inner fairing trim panel (2 screws) and glove box (2 screws)



5] Remove ALL 7 screws securing the right side of the radiator grille to the right lower fairing. Then remove the two bolts securing the lower fairing to the brackets.



Keep a track of those screws and bolts! If you have a clip connecting the upper and lower fairing sections in the front of the fairing - remove that too with a thin screwdriver.



6] Carefully tease out the foam heat shield from under the frame tube and undo the 2 x snorkel bolts and pop the snorkel out of the air intake box.



7] Remove the seat and disconnect the tank electrical connector (circled below) and pull back the tank as far as the fuel lines will allow. Use wood or rags to protect the tank from the frame and vice versa.



8] Now you can access all 3 clips. The forward one hinges at the top and is easy to get at. The rear two hinge at the bottom. Then inboard one needs a long screwdriver to pop open carefully - you don't want to drop it.




9] With one hand, lift the top of the airbox as high as you can and with the other, tug the filter towards you. If it hits the bracket, you should have enough leverage on the filter to raise it and pull it over the bracket - avoiding damage to the paper element.




10] Apply a little grease or silicone spray lube to the upper and lower surfaces of the new air filter where it rides between the surfaces of the upper and lower halves of the airbox. Write the date and mileage somewhere you or a future owner will see it. Slide it all the way home, being careful not to foul the fairing bracket. Re-tension the three clips.

11] Reassembly notes



Reverse procedure as normal but worth noting:

Obviously, make sure the new air filter is sitting squarely in the grooves and is fully home before resecuring the clips. It slides just like a drawer - albeit a stiff one. That's why the lube is useful.

The fairing goes on easier if you start along the top edge with one screw, then along the radiator grille, then the two bolts to brackets. First, just a couple of turns, then when everything is in the right place and sitting right, tighten them all up.

I didn't know how long the air filter had been installed. For all I know it was 40,875 miles and 19 years ago. When the old one came out, it was a little bit dusty but showed about as much light through the pleats as the new one. The thing is, 2 hours' work involved getting it out and back in again, you might as well have a new on on hand.
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1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)