K11 Owners Group

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:34 pm Post subject: More on Kato's extreme makeover

Aside from the truck bed liner and the sidestand down alarm, things I've recently done to Kato:

a) Caliper mounted fog lights for daytime and nighttime visibility. For cheap crap from Wal-Mart these things put out lots of light and are visible from almost 180 degrees from the front. I like this much better than my prior setup.

b) Also upgraded from the yellowish stock halogen bulbs in the Hella FF50 driving lights to hyperwhite Xenon bubls.

c) Stainless rotor and ABS ring hardware like the LT

(You can also see how I did the rear of the front fender to look like the K100RS-SE fender.)

Kato now has three main configutations:

Combat Touring Mode: 35L top case on Reynolds rack with both that and the hard bags in truck bed liner. Corbin Dual Canyon with carbon graphite look cover. (That's the better seat for LD riding.)

Normal Mode: Smaller EMGO top case that'll hold a fullface. Normal side cases and a Corbin Rumble seat.

City Mode: Kato mounted on the back and city cases.

I have run out of things to do to this bike - it's finished. I swear. Very Happy

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

mnb · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject:

So did you do the truck bed liner stuff yourself or go somewhere to have it done? How much did it cost?
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M N B
1997 BMW K1100LT ABS Special Edition
2003 Husqvarna TE610e
2007 Harley Davidson Road King
2009 BMW F800GS
2011 Husqvarna TE310
2014 Ducati Multistrada Pikes Peak MNB Edition

Jim Brotherton · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 3:08 pm Post subject:

Could you post a front and/or angle view of the bike, get a better view of the addition lights and changes.
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1995 K1100RS
2004 R1150RT

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 3:55 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 4:24 pm Post subject:

rydor · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:17 pm Post subject:

Looks great Duck Very Happy

Off the grid · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:09 pm Post subject:

Looks good mate, nice to have options.
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Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

owrstrich · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:43 pm Post subject:

that linex looks really good in person... the camera just dosent do it justice...

j o
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yeeeeeehaaaaaaa...

michaelcurrin · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:24 am Post subject:

Klinker · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:41 pm Post subject:

Any estimate in how much weight the Line-X added? It appears to be thinner (1/16") than Shog's application.

Seems crazy, but I wonder if anyone has coated a fuel tank with the stuff. Could be cool on a street-fighter project, hmmm?
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tlp
1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
- Page Griffin

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:19 pm Post subject:

jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:17 am Post subject: Kato

Nice!
I really dig good looking machines that are also functional to the extreme.
Never thought of doing the mirrors in that stuff, also neat.

My search for an easy to mount light kit are still flailing. Martin Fabricating is kind of busy and at a loss for a test bike to try out idea's on. That's tough I know and it's dang hard to make a fit from pictures.
The Luma Link folks have a very cool set that attach around the fork leg, just need to give them the diameter and they machine out the inside bore.
But at $199.00 a set a wee bit pricey.

I keep looking at those front caliper bolts, aslo like that " Bug Eye Brick " set up, but those lights are HUGE!!.

I'll come up with something, light is lsteing a little less every day no as we slide to fall.
_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:49 pm Post subject:

I wieghed the bags:

Stock painted bag: 8# 14oz

Line-X'd bag: 9# 1oz

3 oz. difference per side bag.

They did both sides of the belly pan and it has more surface area. Next time I'pull the belly pan I'll compare it to my original one. The one I had done had some light scratches (which I sanded before hte Line-X) - I got it off of eBay for $100 shipped.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Klinker · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:09 am Post subject:

Shoganai · Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:24 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 11:34 pm Post subject:

If I can find the right bike with a salvage title on Craig's List, I'm considering doing a whole bike. If I could find a K75C I think that would be perect - better than a Line-x'd streetfighter 'cuz it'd make an impression fomr the front too.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

rydor · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:10 am Post subject:

I saw a K75S up close that was fully sprayed in the stuff. It looked like a stealth fighter.

Blu by u · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 3:38 am Post subject: Line-X

I'm thinking of Line-Xing the bags and mirrors on my 93 K11. I like the look of it and it would be an easy way of covering the scratches and cracks I've gotten over the years.

The left saddle bag was damaged in an accident, snapped clear off and broken into a few pieces. I managed to put it back together (using glue and tape) but I don't like the way it looks, plus it leaks in heavy rain. I'm sure the Line-X would hold it together.

I'm wondering if the thickness of the Line-X would interfere with the bag lids closing or the mirrors fitting correctly.

Any suggestions on how to do it - or should I just mask off the roundels and mirror glass and take the parts in?

What's a good way to prep the cracks in the bag? Glue and sand it smooth? Bondo maybe?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

_________________
Four wheels move the body - two wheels moves the soul

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:16 am Post subject:

It's a fair amount of work. There are some minor issues with closing due to the thickness but I sanded down the outer edge to bevel it a bit.

1) Remove the hinges - you're just having the outer half done.

2) Remove the rubber pads - Take your time and be very careful - they tear easily. Remove all double-stick tape residue from the bags and pads and then tape off the pad areas with some blue painter's tape.

3) Remove the latches - drill out the rivets from the inside. Be careful not to let the heat from the friction of drilling get too much - otherwise the plastic will melt.

4) Pry out the roundels and reflectors - slowly and carefully. They're fairly cheap to replace if you mess them up though. I taped those areas off too.

5) Tape off the hinge rail - so you can get the hinges back on later.

When you get them back:

1) Remove the tape from the hinge rail - overspray onto the tape will be tough so use an Exacto knife to cut the LineX overpsray at the edge of the tape.

2) Rivet the latches back on - The LineX will have filled up the mounting holes a bit. Use a drill bit that's the same size as the cylinders protruding from the backs of the latches.

3) Replace the roundels and reflectors - If you taped up the bottom area of these then again carefully used an Exacto knife to cut the tape out. You might also find that the LineX on the sides of the recessed areas doesn't leave enough room to put them back in. Using a Dremel with a grinding tool, carefully go around the edge and remove some of the LineX.

4) Replace the rubber pads - Remove the painters tape with an Exacto knife. Again you'll probably run into an issue with the added thickness of the LineX on the walls of the recessed areas - Dremel and grinding bit. Instead of trying to find the right tape and reglue the pads back on, what I've found works well is using a caulking tube of roofing sealant. Then put a few belts/straps around the case half to keep the pads positioned properly while the stuff cures. I let them sit for a day.

5) Bevel the outer edge - Use a file or one of those foam sanding blocks.

6) Put the hinges back on - Use a hammer and a block of wood. Note that the end with the holes goes on first.

That's all there is to it.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Blu by u · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:58 pm Post subject: Thanks

Thanks, that's a descriptive reply.

I may do it that way but the rubber pad on the left bag is pretty much holding it together right now. Maybe they could Line-X right over it. I'll check it out.

I reckon with the mirrors I just remove the glass, mask it up and sand it down to get it to fit back on.

Cheerz
_________________
Four wheels move the body - two wheels moves the soul